Vics
Veteran
Not me! If photography isn't real expensive, what's the point? Why did I buy this Leica?
VS
VS
R
rpsawin
Guest
Good lord. You wimps. I just grab it in both hands, put the tips of a couple fingers under the fuzzy edge where the film comes out, and peel it like an orange...]
Fingers??? This is why GOD gave ya teeth! Ain't nothin' better then ripping the top off and spitting it across the darkroom. Yeah, the sound of the top hittin' the wall then skipping across the floor..fingers my achin' a**...lol
Bob
bmattock
Veteran
Good lord. You wimps. I just grab it in both hands, put the tips of a couple fingers under the fuzzy edge where the film comes out, and peel it like an orange...]
Fingers??? This is why GOD gave ya teeth! Ain't nothin' better then ripping the top off and spitting it across the darkroom. Yeah, the sound of the top hittin' the wall then skipping across the floor..fingers my achin' a**...lol
Bob
I use a changing bag, don't have a darkroom. I can get my head in the bag, but then when I zip it shut, it gets hard to breathe after awhile.
Yeah, I know, some of you would like me to attempt it for an hour or so...
itf
itchy trigger finger
I've never been unsuccessful with any of the bottle openers I've used, and its really quick. I've reused non-reusable canisters for bulk too. There are two ways of doing it, one better than the other.
You can pop the cap off the canister and then use it like a reusable; putting the cap back on after attaching the film to the axle. Problem is its slow and squeezing on cap after cap can become painful on your hands, but the biggest problem is they become a little fragile and if you drop the cassette its likely to blow apart.
Much better is the tape on tail method; simply leave the tail of the old film hanging out through the felt and tape the new film onto it, in line and not overlapping, then load as usual. Obviously, if you're doing it this way you need to plan ahead and not wind the original film back in (unless you use a puller, but I'd rather mess with the felt minimally). If you get old cassettes from the local minilab you can pick and choose which ones look good.
You can pop the cap off the canister and then use it like a reusable; putting the cap back on after attaching the film to the axle. Problem is its slow and squeezing on cap after cap can become painful on your hands, but the biggest problem is they become a little fragile and if you drop the cassette its likely to blow apart.
Much better is the tape on tail method; simply leave the tail of the old film hanging out through the felt and tape the new film onto it, in line and not overlapping, then load as usual. Obviously, if you're doing it this way you need to plan ahead and not wind the original film back in (unless you use a puller, but I'd rather mess with the felt minimally). If you get old cassettes from the local minilab you can pick and choose which ones look good.
Shadowplay
Established
You can always just pull the leader back out, here's a crosspost from APUG I made the other day: http://www.apug.org/forums/forum37/...ately-exposed-roll-fit-rage-3.html#post625929
amateriat
We're all light!
I'm with you, Bill. I did once open a cassette successfully with my teeth, but, along with other stupid stuff (no, I didn't join the NHL)...well, let's just say there's a reason I don't smile all that much.I use a changing bag, don't have a darkroom. I can get my head in the bag, but then when I zip it shut, it gets hard to breathe after awhile.
Yeah, I know, some of you would like me to attempt it for an hour or so...
(As Beachcomber Bill used to say: smile with your bottom teeth!)
- Barrett
Keith
The best camera is one that still works!
I just have a cheap pair of kitchen scissors in my darkroom and use the back square edge of the blades to lever the end off the canister and use the same scissors to trim the ends of the film square before loading it into the tank.
bmattock
Veteran
You can always just pull the leader back out, here's a crosspost from APUG I made the other day: http://www.apug.org/forums/forum37/...ately-exposed-roll-fit-rage-3.html#post625929
Pulling the leader back out increases the risk of scratches. I'm sorry, nothing personal, but to me, that's just dumb.
shadowfox
Darkroom printing lives
Oh man, this is fun, lots of different open-the-can-fu coming out of the woodwork 
Bill's grab and peel method I must try, apparently I have been overestimating the strength of the canister all this time
The old church key, never heard of that term, I knew I don't have the right type of bottle opener.
Neither do I have the one like in Barrett's pictures (thanks Barrett!).
So, I'll share how I eventually do it (before reading your responses, yes I'm impatient).
I brought into the changing bag a scissor, my Wenger knife, the film, the reel and tank, ... and a wad of kitchen napkin.
Say what? yes, a wad of kitchen napkin.
Inside, I place the canister lid (either end, both works) against the wad of napkin (and the table beneath it) and use the pointy and strong edge of the can opener on my Wenger to pry open the lid with a downward motion, so the lid is fighting the can-opener and the table on the other side, not much contest there.
The napkin is there so I don't end up with a holy changing bag. One pry is enough, no fumbling around, not much effort either, two HP5 rolls hanging to dry now
... and I can use the napkin to wipe my hands inside the bag when they are sweaty in the upcoming hot summer months.
That's my contribution to the 1001-ways to open your film canister.

Bill's grab and peel method I must try, apparently I have been overestimating the strength of the canister all this time
The old church key, never heard of that term, I knew I don't have the right type of bottle opener.
Neither do I have the one like in Barrett's pictures (thanks Barrett!).
So, I'll share how I eventually do it (before reading your responses, yes I'm impatient).
I brought into the changing bag a scissor, my Wenger knife, the film, the reel and tank, ... and a wad of kitchen napkin.
Say what? yes, a wad of kitchen napkin.
Inside, I place the canister lid (either end, both works) against the wad of napkin (and the table beneath it) and use the pointy and strong edge of the can opener on my Wenger to pry open the lid with a downward motion, so the lid is fighting the can-opener and the table on the other side, not much contest there.
The napkin is there so I don't end up with a holy changing bag. One pry is enough, no fumbling around, not much effort either, two HP5 rolls hanging to dry now
... and I can use the napkin to wipe my hands inside the bag when they are sweaty in the upcoming hot summer months.
That's my contribution to the 1001-ways to open your film canister.
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pesphoto
Veteran
MIne looks just like Barrett's...easy easy easy
bmattock
Veteran
Bill's grab and peel method I must try, apparently I have been overestimating the strength of the canister all this time![]()
I'm no muscle-man. I can also do it one-handed if I feel like it. That metal is very thin. I only use two hands so I don't cut myself on sharp edges as the metal peels back. Seriously - it takes no strength at all. A 9-year-old girl could do it.
I fail to understand any method that a) requires money be spent on some device or b) drags the film back out of the light trap, potentially scratching it. I understand that people do it, but I don't know why. It makes no sense.
pesphoto
Veteran
Its fun popping the top off, then I just throw all those little rings in a corner of my darkroom into a big pile. Like a little art project
bmattock
Veteran
Its fun popping the top off, then I just throw all those little rings in a corner of my darkroom into a big pile. Like a little art project
It's fun ripping it to shreds, I pretend it is you-know-who's neck.
pesphoto
Veteran
It's fun ripping it to shreds, I pretend it is you-know-who's neck.
George Bush? ....oops, can I say that? eh...it's Friday.
Silva Lining
CanoHasseLeica
I use the same method as Bill, another option is to put the canister in the changing bag, swing it around your head and smack it against a solid object a few times....
amateriat
We're all light!
A note about "church-key" openers:
A lot of these openers are quite thick around the "catch" area. This one is so thick it can't get a proper grip on the end-cap of the cassette, so it's useless. Many of the older variety of this opener (which actually did look more like a large, old-fashioned key) are thinner and more useful.
And, just now, for snickers, I got out one of my Swiss Army knives to see if its bottle-opener would work:
Sure enough, it does! Needs just a touch of finesse in terms of technique, though. (Yet another good use for the things.)
Ho-kay, back to housework...
- Barrett
A lot of these openers are quite thick around the "catch" area. This one is so thick it can't get a proper grip on the end-cap of the cassette, so it's useless. Many of the older variety of this opener (which actually did look more like a large, old-fashioned key) are thinner and more useful.
And, just now, for snickers, I got out one of my Swiss Army knives to see if its bottle-opener would work:
Sure enough, it does! Needs just a touch of finesse in terms of technique, though. (Yet another good use for the things.)
Ho-kay, back to housework...
- Barrett
Attachments
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gb hill
Veteran
I leave the film in the canister. Doesn't hurt a thing. A Hakuba film puller is the best you can get. I think you can gain better control winding the film on to the reel this way. But if you feel the need to be macho like Bill then go for it.
Justin Low
J for Justin
I'd like to caution against ripping the canister open through the lips.
I did that once in a darkbag and the ragged edges of the canisters sliced into my fingers. It wasn't pretty.
What I do these days is use a plastic film puller, which grabs the leader from inside the canister. Well, that's if the leader gets rewound all the way; I prefer to rewind leader out.
I did that once in a darkbag and the ragged edges of the canisters sliced into my fingers. It wasn't pretty.
What I do these days is use a plastic film puller, which grabs the leader from inside the canister. Well, that's if the leader gets rewound all the way; I prefer to rewind leader out.
rgripp
Member
From the amateur point of view - using Bessa R, various Y-fx3 SLRs and Barnack LII - its worth learning the feel of the moment when film leaves the uptake spool during rewinding, leaving the leader protruding from the canister; cut the leader off near the canister and bend back the small amount still protruding.
This will stop the remainder disappearing, and prevent confusion with an unexposed film.
No need to open cassette to load onto spiral for home development, also saves lab from having to assault cassette with film retrieving devices.
Also a useful technique if wanting to swap a film between cameras.
This will stop the remainder disappearing, and prevent confusion with an unexposed film.
No need to open cassette to load onto spiral for home development, also saves lab from having to assault cassette with film retrieving devices.
Also a useful technique if wanting to swap a film between cameras.
bmattock
Veteran
The film rubbing against anything introduces the possibility of scratches. So removing it out through the intact canister may not damage it, but it might.
As to cutting oneself, yes, be careful. Presumably one can also handle the occasional sharp instrument without living life consigned to the blunt scissors crowd.
Grip it and rip it. Stop being a girl.
As to cutting oneself, yes, be careful. Presumably one can also handle the occasional sharp instrument without living life consigned to the blunt scissors crowd.
Grip it and rip it. Stop being a girl.
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