Fujica GL690 Panoramic conversion

[Murdoc1905]

How small is "small"?

Sadly ya dont print yerself.

For "small" threads, speakin of threads below M6 I give it the lowest possible layerhight.
And because of the diameter, I'm drawing with Freecad and I hafe to give the threads a + tolerance between 0,3 and 0,4 mm, depending on filament type an layerhignt.

Or just print the core diameter of the thread and cut it with a tap?
Works well in PLA and PETG.

Or, depending on available space, press in a "melting nut"?

Just my 2 cents !

The thread Ridge sticks out only 0.01 in (0.25mm) so probably as small as is printable, the diameter of the hole is 0.134 in (3.4mm) (roughly a #6 screw (4mmx0.7). The process used to 3D print it is the SLS which is better for printing accurately over standard 3D printing, but it also isn't perfect. I wanted to avoid standard screws as I didn't want it to take 15 turns to move the spool in and out but it looks like I might have to even just for testing purposes. I will probably opt for a threaded/melt in insert for now. Thou I imagine final designs would be made of aluminum so adding threads would be a lot stronger reducing the need for an insert.

 

[Murdoc1905]

Yep, thts the trick, the silicone tape adds enough friction to turn the spindle which drives the frame counter.
It have (at least mine) a thickness of 0,5mm / 0.02" so it adds up in the diameter +1mm / 0.04"

I was able to take regular clear packing tape and wrap it around the frame counter spindle to advance it, it took maybe 2 turns around and didn't add much thickness at all, thou I wouldn't recommend it as it can't be good for the film to drag across but I was waiting on my silicone tape to arrive and was able to run a roll of 35mm thru my camera without issue. I think it's less about increasing diameter as it is increasing the friction of the drum.

 

[shawn]

The thread Ridge sticks out only 0.01 in (0.25mm) so probably as small as is printable, the diameter of the hole is 0.134 in (3.4mm) (roughly a #6 screw (4mmx0.7). The process used to 3D print it is the SLS which is better for printing accurately over standard 3D printing, but it also isn't perfect. I wanted to avoid standard screws as I didn't want it to take 15 turns to move the spool in and out but it looks like I might have to even just for testing purposes. I will probably opt for a threaded/melt in insert for now. Thou I imagine final designs would be made of aluminum so adding threads would be a lot stronger reducing the need for an insert.

A cheap resin printer could do that easily (they are like .01mm layer thickness and .05mm xy) which could work for prototyping but I don't think it would have the strength for verrylong term.

Heat set inserts work very well. I used them to hold on lens cones on cameras. Get the ones that are slightly smaller on the insert side, they are easier to keep square. Not all of them are made that way.