TriX @ 1250 - Take IV

[lZr]

Presetting my Bessa R at 1/2000 and f/11 on my Industar L/D 55/2.8, I did some outdoor tests in full sun, midday. Harsh light, but I wanted contrast as much as possible and no shadows if possible
I was 🙂 to review my negative as excellent. Every details are visible like looking at positive.

 

[lZr]

This one I stiched from two shots. Monument on top of the hill

 

[charjohncarter]

Lazar, this is Diafine again? What I like is the skys on all shots are NOT blown out. If this is the look you are going for, you have it.

 

[kaiyen]

I like this method. Set using sunny 16 (though you are doing EI 1000, not 1250), go out into ideal Sunny 16 settings, and do that. It's a way around a patterned metering system other than spot.

However, it's not perfect, but it's intriguing.

You have more than enough shadow detail so 1000 EI certainly is going to be close.

 

[lZr]

Realy I don't know what is ISO 1250 with my Bessa, but something close to the idea 😉

 

[le vrai rdu]

This one I stiched from two shots. Monument on top of the hill

this one is fantastic, 1250 iso okay, but what soup ? :d

 

[dazedgonebye]

I'd like to see that third one larger. I think I like what you are going for here.

 

[Ronald_H]

I don't know what you were looking for exactly, but I jumped right in at 1250 and still find it amazing. Your shots prove that is works wonderfully again. It's that I'm so ill, but it makes me wanna go out and shoot the last of the Tri-X roll currently in my M2, even if the sun is blazing outside.

 

[lZr]

Thanks ALL. Fisrt, my Bessa R have a tick between ISO 1000 and 1600. Is it 1250?
I forgot to mention - The soup is Diafine. This thread is Take IV. I started with Take I, II and III, as far as I remember
Blazing sun is nothing bad for this combo. What works good for it is the contrasty scenes

ISO 400

ISO 800

ISO 1600

 

[lZr]

Here goes the left and right sides of this concrete monument. My marks are: Trix @1000 in Diafine

 

[alexz]

Wow, Lazar, your results prove that I was wrong assuming Tri-X isn't really pushable well beyond 800 as I assumed after my less then successful attempts to soup one in HC110 (adjusted accordingly for pushing).
It appears I shall get back to that probably trying to fine tune HC110 approach or switch to another developer for pushing Tri-X...

As soon as I'll stabilize Neopan 1600 in HC110 (which I'm still struggling with...)...

 

[lZr]

Good Alex. Take care of the TriX. It can go to 12,800
HC 110 is fantastic soup. The recomendation for TriX in Diafine is 1600

 

[Ronald_H]

When I had the lab push Tri-X to 1600 I was sorely disappointed. Neopan 1600 looked a lot better. But who knows what they developed it in. Tri-X in Diafine is simply stunning.

I know that blazing sun works well, but shooting at 1250 in all that light feels.... wrong 😉

 

[lZr]

Ronald, I wish you do your B&W and not any lab. I love the moment I see my negative just before the washing starts.

leicasniper, I think you are right.

 

[alexz]

Yeah, Lazar, your contribution in this regard is much of aspiration for me not to surrender but rather go on and work my way through Tri-X pushing..
Right after I'll make it for Neopan 1600...has a bulk roll of one, first 2-3 attempts (10-12 frames each) went unacceptable (as you probaly noticed from my recent threads), but that was only the beginning....

 

[lZr]

alexz, please keep in mind, Neopan 1600 is pulled by Diafine to 1200. You can't push Neopan 1600 (as recomended by BKA)
Neopan 100 (Acros) is pushed to 200 (5 minutes in dil A and 5 minutes in dil B)
Neopan 400 is pushed to 640
Neopan 1600 is pulled to 1200

Shabat Shalom

 

[MarK @ BKA Photo]

Lazar,

Fantastic work Lazar!

Our company, BKA Group, manufactures Diafine and many other darkroom products. I have always believed that Diafine was misunderstood as a developer that was only good for low light level photography. In truth, Diafine was developed in the mid 60’s as a low contrast, compensating developer and it was then that Tri-X should be rated at 1600.

With the improved quality of contemporary films we find that Tri-X may now work better at 1250 although as always, film speed is highly subjective. Most curiously, we have tested the Diafine/Tri-X combination down as low as 400 with acceptable result but extremely low contrast.

Many Black/White photographers are now scanning their negatives for digital printing and scanning is precisely where you need a lower contrast negative. Regarding film speed….. with Diafine, film speed affects contrast. Diafine is a “compensating developer” which means that it develops to completion without burning out the highlights and to determine the best film speed (contrast) for your shooting style and post processing technique, you might try this experiment.

Place your camera on a tripod, set the set the ISO to 1600 and meter manually. Take the first shot, drop the ISO down one step to 1250 and take the next shot at the same shutter speed and f-stop as before. Repeat this process at each ISO down to 200. Process your roll of film in Diafine as usual with gentle agitation, 2 inversions each minute, wash and fix.

Scan these negatives and the frame that gives you the best print is the ISO you should be shooting at!

 

[lZr]

Thanks Mark.

Interesting to read your post on spot. This is your #1 post. Please stay with us in RFF for assistance. This thread is the 4-th about Diafine. I did 3 more a time ago.
I tested the TriX at 400, 800, 1200 and 1600. I like the results.

I was in search for Diafine in Israel and shortly after getting mine from Germany I was surprised to find it also in Tel Aviv.

 

[MarK @ BKA Photo]

Correction:

Place your camera on a tripod, set the set the ISO to 1600 and meter manually. Take the first shot, drop the ISO down one step to 1250 and take the next shot at the same shutter speed and f-stop as before. Repeat this process at each ISO down to 200.

This should have read :
Place your camera on a tripod, set the set the ISO to 1600 and meter manually. Take the first shot, drop the ISO down one step to 1250, re-meter the scene and change the speed / f-stop. Repeat this process at each ISO down to 200.

Sorry for the confusion!