Neopan 100ss - best exposure

ampguy

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What do you expose Neopan 100ss at? The rated 100? or less or more?

Developing will be with D76 1:1, probably at > 72 or 74 deg. F.
 
I just bought a bunch of this, and just developed my first few rolls last week.
I'm usually trying to keep the contrast down so I shot it at more like iso 50, then developed in D76 1:1 for about 7.5 minutes at 68F.

The negs look good but I haven't gotten a chance to print or scan any yet.

Good luck,
Gary
 
Thanks

Thanks

My datasheet only has EIs for D76 1:1 of 100 and 200 (8.25 min @ 68 at 100, and 9 min @ 68 for 200), so that seems about right for 50.

Let me know how your prints or scans come out.

I just bought a bunch of this, and just developed my first few rolls last week.
I'm usually trying to keep the contrast down so I shot it at more like iso 50, then developed in D76 1:1 for about 7.5 minutes at 68F.

The negs look good but I haven't gotten a chance to print or scan any yet.

Good luck,
Gary
 
I've only just started using this film, but have been shooting it at EI 80 and the results are very nice. I develop in HC-110 dilution G.

An example:

2781954444_03de14651c.jpg

(©2008 David R Munson etc etc )
 
I shoot it @ 100 and develop it with D-76 1:1 @68* for 12 min.
I wet print and have no problem with this arrangement...
 
I've only just started using this film, but have been shooting it at EI 80 and the results are very nice. I develop in HC-110 dilution G.

An example:

...
(©2008 David R Munson etc etc )

Great shot! What kind of times do you use for dilution G? I hear its triple the times of dilution B but havent tried it yet. Also how little ml do you use as well? I keep hearing between 3ml or 6ml as minimum.
 
I have a bunch of this film. My first roll looked pretty dense but havent printed it yet.
Lots of purple as well. Anyone else find this to be the case?
 
Great shot! What kind of times do you use for dilution G? I hear its triple the times of dilution B but havent tried it yet. Also how little ml do you use as well? I keep hearing between 3ml or 6ml as minimum.

Asa general rule, I develop in G for 4x the time as I do in B, given that it's 1/4 the strength. My starting time has been 22 minutes at 68ºF/20ºC for EI 80. To develop 2 rolls of film I use 0.5 fluid ounces of stock solution and add water to make 16 fluid ounces of developer.
 
I have a bunch of this film. My first roll looked pretty dense but havent printed it yet.
Lots of purple as well. Anyone else find this to be the case?

Yes...

Rinse it for about 5 minutes in running water then let it stand in water for five to ten minutes spinning it every few minutes...pour out purple colored water and fill the tank again...do this until the purple cast in the water is no longer...
This helps save water and the film will get clear...;)
 
I have a bunch of this film. My first roll looked pretty dense but havent printed it yet.
Lots of purple as well. Anyone else find this to be the case?

Like Nikon Sam mentioned, lots of rinsing.

Ive only started doing this but Ive found hypo clear to be really useful in the final wash. It clears out the stains much faster than when I used to wash with water alone. Its one more chemical and one more step in the process but it really does cut down wash times in my development routine so Ill continue to use it.
 
Asa general rule, I develop in G for 4x the time as I do in B, given that it's 1/4 the strength. My starting time has been 22 minutes at 68ºF/20ºC for EI 80. To develop 2 rolls of film I use 0.5 fluid ounces of stock solution and add water to make 16 fluid ounces of developer.

Thanks for the info, Ill be sure to try dilution G one of these days.
 
I just shot some ss at 100 and developed in diafine, seems OK. Here is an example. Oh yeah negs were fairly purple but scanned fine.

2767960946_a921fb76a9.jpg
 
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I've been exposing Acros at EI 200 and developing in DD-X, 1+4 dilution, according to the times listed at Digitaltruth.com. Agitation: three inversions in first minute, once every three minutes after that. Grain is very, very fine, contrast and tonality excellent. Films size: 135 and 120.

Good info to have on hand. I'll give this a try. That said, it is relevant to note in this thread that Acros and 100ss are NOT the same emulsion. They are different films. Both good, but different.
 
So does the residual purple dye do anything to the negs? It doesn't seem to affect scanning, but I wonder if it might deteriorate the film at some point?
 
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