Who can I trust with my xp2?

fbf

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First time trying some xp2 I bought from randy lately. I have never sent c41 bw film to labs before (not sure my local lab even does c41 bw). Who can I trust? ( walmart? Sam's club? BJ's? ...):eek::confused: I don't want to spend too much money for c41 developing and I can scan the films myself.
I have tried using HC110 dilu.B to develop c41 films (kodak bw400cn) and the results were...terrible?! (contrast was ridiculously high). So I am not souping them myself this time...
Thanks.

btw. I am in NY.
 
C-41 B&W is processed exactly like color C-41, so any lab that does C-41 color, will do it. As for prints, it runs through the same way.
Some shops do a better job, but all should be able to do it.
I got the film "Develop Only" and scanned the neg's myself, so I never tried anyone's print service
Enjoy the film
 
As long as the equipment is in decent shape, go with the cheapest, as it all gets run through a machine anyway, unless you want to pay significantly more for dip and dunk processing at E6 labs in Atlanta. I would recommend testing one roll at 400 speed and one at 200 speed. I have always had significantly better results shooting C41 black and white films at ISO 200.
 
You should get decent results with any ISO setting between 100 and 800 with this film. 200 does seem the optimum for best quality though.
 
xp2 at 800??? no way! 400 tops and better at 320.

get it developed anywhere, but make sure the operator knows how to print it as b&w, they have to push a button and if they don't do it the images come out like green or purple... and you don't want to make them handle all your cut negatives again and scratch them all to hell. Have fun, great stuff! (well, actually I prefer BW400CN, but XP-2 Super is good too).
 
EXPOSURE RATING
XP2 SUPER film has a speed rating of
ISO 400/27° (400ASA, 27DIN, EI 400/27) to
daylight. The ISO speed rating was measured
using standard C41 processing. Although rated at
ISO 400/27°, XP2 SUPER can be exposed over the
range EI 50/18–800/30. When higher speed is
needed, XP2 SUPER can be rated at up to
EI 800/30. For finer grain, when speed is less
important, rate the film at EI 200/24, although for
finest grain it can be rated as low as EI 50/18 if
required

From the Ilford Technical sheet...
 
I always send my XP2 to Walmart. The prints always come back a beautiful sepia tone. I don't know if its tired chemicals or what but I love the look!

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/grants_images/3338965646/" title="Underwood by Glooscap, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3406/3338965646_33b66b31c6.jpg" width="500" height="332" alt="Underwood" /></a>

Above shot on XP2 super with my Nikon F3HP
 
yeah, yeah... and at ISO 801 it suddenly falls apart?

The operative words here are "can be exposed over the
range EI 50/18–800/30," not that you will be happy with the results... optimistic at best. I recently shot a roll through an old Oly rangefinder that was underexposing by about 1/2 stop and none of the negatives that were exposed at ISO 600 were very good... yes, good enough to document an accident, but certainly not for "fine art" work. Even BW400CN starts falling apart at ISO 600 and it is much more forgiving for underexposure than XP-2 Super. After using it for years, I settled on a standard exposure for XP-2 Super at 320 and 400 when I need the extra speed. With BW400CN I see no improvement going below 400, so that is were I shoot it.

I guess if you routinely print with blocked shadows you won't don't see the horrible grain and can shoot it at higher ISOs...

EXPOSURE RATING
XP2 SUPER film has a speed rating of
ISO 400/27° (400ASA, 27DIN, EI 400/27) to
daylight. The ISO speed rating was measured
using standard C41 processing. Although rated at
ISO 400/27°, XP2 SUPER can be exposed over the
range EI 50/18–800/30. When higher speed is
needed, XP2 SUPER can be rated at up to
EI 800/30. For finer grain, when speed is less
important, rate the film at EI 200/24, although for
finest grain it can be rated as low as EI 50/18 if
required

From the Ilford Technical sheet...
 
photography is such a thankless profession that I have found out of work photogs and students working at different CVS and Walgreen stores. Talk to the operators before you drop off your film, if they are enthusiasts they appreciate your interest and do better work for you. For a while I had a guy at CVS fine tuning special adjustment curves for my b&w... gave me very good machine prints, probably as good as the best prolab in town (who admitted that there was no reason their results couldn't be matched at Walgreens). It also helps to go to less crowded stores.

Find someone who is careful with the negs! XP2's emulsion is notoriously delicate. The last mini-lab operator I trusted with this stuff actually blamed the film when I complained about her greasy prints all over it. Two separate issues, I know, chose carefully.
 
THanks guys. I decide to give the local Costco a try. will post some pictures when I get the film back.

btw. Randy, thanks for the film.
 
yeah, except that digitalICE will not work with those negatives, so why bother with C41 in the first place?

I'm pretty sure the whole thing about C41 B&W is that you can get it processed anywhere for cheap and digital ICE will work because it is C41 dye clouds forming the image, not silver particles.
 
XP2 has a non-orange base unlike Kodak & Fuji color film. ICE works with the orange base. It probably won't work with XP2.

Why develop C-41 film in Diafine? I cleaned out the 'fridge of a pro studio. I have a bushel or more of 120 & 220 C-41 film. The nearest lab that develops 120 C-41 is farther away than I care to drive to. Thanks to Diafine I have an abundant supply of 120 and 220 B&W film.

There are multiple ways to fricassée the feline, non?
 
digital dust and scratch removal is unaffected by the film base color. It's the silver on traditional B&W that impedes such technology.
 
I'm pretty sure the whole thing about C41 B&W is that you can get it processed anywhere for cheap and digital ICE will work because it is C41 dye clouds forming the image, not silver particles.

If you however process it in Diafine as suggested, it will still have all the silver in it.
 
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