Looking for a really bad film

[Merkin]

I know this might sound odd, but I will be attending an event this summer that I had a flash of inspiration for turning in to a small photo project. Even though I shoot black and white 99.9 percent of the time, I think the best film for the job will be the worst c41 color film I can find. I am looking for a film that does a really horrible job of accurate color rendition, a film that looks muddy and murky and generally horrible. Also, I need something that is in date, as I will be processing these at a minilab, so I won't be able to have them pushed. What are your recommendations for the worst color film on the market? Are there any bad ones on the market these days?

 

[FrozenInTime]

Underexpose the new Kodak Ektar 100 and your there !

 

[ClaremontPhoto]

There is no really bad modern film.

However, some out of date stuff, developed in a regular minilab (not pushed or anything) may give you what you're after.

Another route is out of date E6 slide film 'cross-processed' as C41 color film in a minilab. Just hand it in and don't make a big thing out of it.

 

[mr_phillip]

Yeah, I agree that there isn't any really 'bad' film left on the market anymore - the folks who used to pump that stuff out are now selling bad digital cameras or bad digital accessories. You could try trawling the 'net for some obscure Chinese or Indian film, but that's likely to be a real crapshoot and, from what I hear, some of that stuff's actually pretty ok.

OoD stock would be my preferred option.

 

[antiquark]

I've had some bad results with Superia 800. If you set your exposure to manual, you might get a few murky underexposed pics. But even when properly exposed, there's lots of grain.

I think that a big part of the quality is who's developing it. Ask around, find out which local minilab is prone to scratching your negatives or otherwise screwing up your prints. They are also probably using old chemicals, which will degrade the pictures even more.

Good luck! (Or should I say, bad luck!) 🙂

 

[Maxapple88]

For b/w I'd recommend Lucky 100, its atrocious. I don't know any suitable c41.

 

[Merkin]

hmmm, seeing as how i have been burned a couple times on expired film, and i really don't like xpro, i might be out of luck on the really bad color rendition, but really severe grain might work. Which color film has the most atrociously huge grain?

ETA: also, (forgive my ignorance of color film), what is the effect of using indoor light balanced color film outside in natural light?

 

[antiquark]

ETA: also, (forgive my ignorance of color film), what is the effect of using indoor light balanced color film outside in natural light?

Check this group:
http://www.flickr.com/groups/tungstenfilm/pool/

Basically you'll get a blue color cast for outdoor shots.

 

[Dave Wilkinson]

The posts here get stranger!....most people are striving to improve their work, and you want advice on turning out crap!...do you have a Holga or Lomo? -or maybe a shoebox and pinhole? 😕

 

[FrozenInTime]

Which color film has the most atrociously huge grain?

Fuji 800 is considered to be the best ISO 800 color neg fillm, but underexposure (or exposing as if it was digital with a highlight bias) is not a good idea ).

The biggest grain I ever saw was on the now discontinued Konica 3200.

 

[Merkin]

The posts here get stranger!....most people are striving to improve their work, and you want advice on turning out crap!...do you have a Holga or Lomo? -or maybe a shoebox and pinhole? 😕

I do have a holga, but I don't use it in a 'lomography' style, which I think is a total scam, and I will be using my Leica for this project. I want bad looking film because I will be doing portraits of cosplayers at a comic book convention, and I want a film that will give the feel of a comic book panel, with slightly out of whack colors and/or almost a pop art/pointillism feel from large grain.

 

[mr_phillip]

what is the effect of using indoor light balanced color film outside in natural light?

Pretty much the same as leaving a blue filter on your lens.

Actually, I think antiquark hit the nail on the head - the key for the look you're after is the development. Why not just try some stock C41 such as Superia 400 and either get it developed at a **** lab, or invest in a Tetenal C41 kit and develop it badly yourself (a friend of mine uses the latter, and the results can be quite cool).

 

[ClaremontPhoto]

When buying out of date film you'll find everybody claiming it's been frozen.

I don't want ten year old frozen

I do want ten year old in a box at the back of the store.

But they all lie and say it's been frozen!

Get a batch and try it, whatever is cheap and available, and discover it's weirdness ahead of the big day.

 

[Merkin]

When buying out of date film you'll find everybody claiming it's been frozen.

I don't want ten year old frozen

I do want ten year old in a box at the back of the store.

But they all lie and say it's been frozen!

Get a batch and try it, whatever is cheap and available, and discover it's weirdness ahead of the big day.

the thing that concerns me is consistency. when you buy numerous rolls of expired film as a lot, how much difference do you see roll to roll?

 

[ClaremontPhoto]

the thing that concerns me is consistency. when you buy numerous rolls of expired film as a lot, how much difference do you see roll to roll?

That's why you buy a batch.

Try out one or two films, and then use the rest when you know how it will behave.

The film within the batch will be consistent. Consistently odd.

 

[mooge]

for a comic book feel, why not Velvia or some other slides? yes, kinda opposite of what you asked, but I see comics in bright, supersaturated colours...

 

[pesphoto]

cross processing c41 film..........

 

[xayraa33]

for colour film, go with Ferrania.

 

[blazejs]

Superia 1600 is my vote🙂

 

[David William White]

Well, the worst C-41 film I've ever used was Scotch. If you want awful negatives with lots of grain, then underexpose any outdated colour negative film. Minilabs will push process. For those with reluctance, just chat up the tech and let them in on what you are doing. You probably want to tell them not to adjust the prints anyway.

However, for cosplay, you should really consider cross-processing some Ektachrome, as others suggested. You get slight colour shifts (but not greenish like Fuji), chunkier grain, and punchier colours. The minilab can process Ektachrome in C-41, but again, if not normally on the menu, you have to chat up the tech. Most would be happy (if not intrigued) to participate.

For just one example of an Ektachrome slide cross-processed in C-41, see my image on page 7 of W/NW Colour.

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=59549&page=7

This was done with 4x5, so there's not much grain, but if you shoot rollfilm, the grain should be more pronounced.