Which is better with a f1.4 lens and 400 ISO?

I'd suggest f/2 at 1/30th, and if you think you need 800, push to 1600. There's nothing to be gained pushing to 800 that is lost pushing to 1600 with Tri-X IMHO. In other words, shoot it at 400 or 1600, no reason to bother with 800.

kshapero said:
Good point, so then why get a lens as fast as 1.4?
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because then your lens is not vignetting at f/2 🙂

Seriously, my car will go 150mph, which just makes it much easier/safer to pass on two lane roads and pull out into traffic than it would if it was a four-cylinder econocar that topped out at 100 mph. Just because the limits are higher doesn't mean it always needs to be used at them to reap the benefits.
 
I think you have to give yourself the best chance to eliminate as much camera shake as you can, so shoot at the highest possible shutter speed and do whatever it takes to do that. If you can shoot consistently at 1/8 then more power to you. I rarely go below 1/30 and try to use 1/60 whenever possible ( in low-light situations). Next time bring faster film or shoot with your Nikon D700. 🙂
 
maddoc said:
f/1.0 + 1/60s @ 800ISO works quite well. 🙂
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Show boater ;P


Number 1 for me. My understanding is that if one is steady in his breathing 1/2 of the FL should be the shutter speed, i.e., 1/2 of 50 = 25. And 1/25 is not much from 1/30 or 1/15; so be calm and courageous and go for 1/15! Any creative action involves a calculated risk...
 
I'd try to shoot f2 at 1/8 at ISO 400 if i can
otherwise f1.4 at 1/15 at ISO 400

I'd agree that if you are pushing to ISO800, might as well go all the way to ISO1600 if the film permits
 
If there's motion.
wide open at f1.4, 1/30 second pushed to 800 ISO

If it's still.
f2.0, 1/8 second at 400 ISO

I can shoot at 1/8th consistently. The trouble is if there's motion in the image, like a person dancing or so. At 1/8 the subject will be motion blurred. Not camera shake blurred. So 1/30 will yield a better image.

If it's still. And you can do 1/8 just fine. Go ahead. You can a cleaner photo at ISO 400 and f2. The f2 also helps because you'll likely be closer. So you'll get more DOF.
 
Sometimes slow speed and motion can work. Shot at 1/8

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If the triangle on the left isn't flashing then take the picture! No one will care about the camera shake induced blur if the subject matter is interesting.
 
kshapero said:
Good point, so then why get a lens as fast as 1.4?
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Two reasons: The first is so that it is there if it is absolutely needed, or if your need for an extremely shallow depth of field outweighs your need for fantastic sharpness.

The second, and most important reason is that just as an f1.4 lens doesn't look its best until f2 or f2.8, an f2 lens doesn't look its best until f2.8 or f4.
 
Options 2, 3, 4, and 6 are eliminated for me because I have never pulled my film and I rarely push my film. If I needed to shoot at an ISO higher than 400, I simply get a film with a higher ISO rating.

Option 5 is eliminated for me because I cannot handhold a camera at 1/8 of a second without camera shake.

Therefore, option 1 (wide open at f1.4, 1/15 second set at 400 ISO) is the only viable option for me. Even when I do shoot with my 50mm f/1.4 or my 35mm f/1.4 in dim light without a flash, I use a tripod, a monopod, or chest pod.
 
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