First time using medium speed B&W in decades... what to do?

Ken Ford

Ken Ford

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I feel the need to shoot some medium speed B&W. I'm not looking for super smooth grain; I want to be able to shoot in daylight at something other than minimum aperture to allow selective depth of field, and 200-400 speed film isn't doing it for me. The last roll of Plus-X I exposed was probably around 1978 or so.

I was a committed Tri-X user for many, many years but mostly flipped over to commercially processed chromogenic B&W after I broke down my darkroom in 1986. (I've been lucky enough to have other darkrooms available to me from time to time since then.) I'd like to set my darkroom up again for 35mm and 6x6 and start wet processing and printing.

I still love the look of Tri-X in Rodinal because of its high acutance, and I think I'd like to try it with Plus-X or TMX. I'd also consider Ilford products, but I'd like to support Kodak - it's easier to find locally, too.

Can anyone offer suggestions for Plus-X in Rodinal? I'm hoping for an EI of somewhere between 64 and 125 with some of the same characteristics I used to get with Tri-X in Rodinal, but smaller grain.

It's been a long time since I've played in the dark...!
 
Weird, I was just going to start a thread like this! I like Delta too, but wanted to know what else was out there in the 100 range.

I would also like to try Fomapan R and send it off to dr5 for reversal...or try reversal at home.
 
I'd stick with Tri-X and Plus-X if I were you. Many users decide to rate these films one stop slower, so you are already at 200 and 64 respectively. Throw in an ND filter or two and you should be ready to roll. With Plus-X at 64 and sunny 16, you can do 1/1000 and f/4 in full sun. Pick up a two or three stop ND filter too.

I think if Rodinal is used, you will be somewhat forced to use a slower rating anyway.

By they way, these are my films of choice, but I dev them in XTOL 1:1. Works for me.
 
Try Fuji Acros 100 in Rodinal, 1:100, 18 min, @ 68F, easy agitation every minute, then every 2 minutes and finally at the end every 3 minutes. Really tames the high contrast situations here in New Mexico. This is my main film in 120 and plan to use it in 35mm when I run of of APX 100.

In the past I have use TMax 100 and Delta 100 in Rodinal. Also have done Plus-X in Rodinal. My favorite combo with classic lenses, gives such a classic look.
 
Plus-X. 35mm (Arista) and 120 and I really wish it were still available in 4x5. That said, I'm currently working my way through 15 rolls of 120 Tmax 100. After 3-4 rolls in Xtol 1:3 I'm liking it. When the Tmax 100 is gone, I'll buy 15 rolls of Plus-X. Saving 5 rolls of each for Rodinal. Flip a coin. Pick one forever and ever.

Unlike some folks, I've never met a film or developer I didn't like. They're all good!
 
I'm with Wayne now that I've gotten through just about every film I can imagine...they are all different, but none are "good" or "bad." I find FP4 to remarkably grainy for a relatively slow speed film, but it has the tones of a conventional film, whereas Delta 100, TMX, and Acros look very different. Acros is kind of in between, though. I like that quite a bit in an acutance developer - right now it's mostly Pyrocat HD for the speed, but it's great in Rodinal, too. TMX isn't as finicky about exposure as many say, IMO, and works and looks great in Rodinal. It stains a bit too much in Pyrocat for scanning, but should look good for wet printing.

I would stick with TXT and using ND filters if you're wanting to go back/forth with your shutter speed on a single roll. Or, just shoot it at a slower speed and pull or use a slower developer. Rodinal will put you down around 250 as it is (based on my tests). Perceptol will get super smooth grain and you're down at 200. Microphen is low grain for the speed and gets you to 560 (XTOL should be up around there, too - just haven't used it).
 
I think I'm just going to try ND filters for now - I can foresee having a partial roll of 100 speed in the body when I really need something faster.

Thanks, all!
 
A fix for that.

A fix for that.

Ken Ford said:
I think I'm just going to try ND filters for now - I can foresee having a partial roll of 100 speed in the body when I really need something faster.

Thanks, all!
Click to expand...

Ken,

There's a fix for that: multiple cameras or multiple backs. 😱 😀 😎
 
Oh, really?

Oh, really?

Ken Ford said:
Can I borrow your credit card, Wayne? 😀
Click to expand...

There's a Catch to the Fix. 😀

In addition to using 120 Tmax 100 for the first time, I'm also using 4x5 Tmax 400 for the first time. A very impressive film. I may in fact settle on the Tmax 400 in 120 & 4x5 simply because the extra speed is really handy when you need f/22. 😀

A yellow filter and a polarizer handle an open aperture with 120.

Your idea of Tri-X and filters is very acceptable.
 
A medium yellow filter will cut back about 1.5 to 2 stops, and may be more versatile in darkening or enhancing contrast in [ partly cloudy ] skies. Also, a great thing for Caucasian skin tones. [It hides skin blemishes and doesn't give an artificial look.]

I've found Delta 100 very easy to expose from EI 50 to 200. At 50 and 100, in Rodinal 1+100. At EI 200, with DD-X.
 
For prints, Plus x and D76 1:1 7 min for a condenser enlatger 7.5 for diffusion

For scans and prints , Delta 100 D76 1:1 9.75 for a condenser, 10.5 for diffusion.

No matter the film, scans will be better if you develpe for a condenser enlarger #2 paper.

I can`t find a time for PLus x that will print and scan. For scan only, try 6.5 min. Then you will be printing on #3 paper.

T Max 100 works at 8.75 min D76 1:1 6.5 stock

Kodak films are 5 sec agitation 2 times per minute. Delta 100 is 10 sec once per min.

All the above is right off my excell spread sheet and I use the times myself. There is years research developing the times, and they are perfect for D76 24 hours to 6 months old kept in 8 oz sealed bottles for one time use. Half full bottles are totally unpredictable regardless of what Kodak says. After a week it is off one paper grade, high to start and it crashes.
 
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