Leica LTM Leica IIIa vulcanite rebonding

Leica M39 screw mount bodies/lenses

radiocemetery

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I have been googling around this morning to look for a solution to loose vulcanite on my IIIa. The vulcanite is completely intact and undamaged save for the small gap under the lens mount that is usually seen on these cameras. I can feel that the vulcanite has lifted away from the camera shell on the back. Has anyone had success rebonding vulcanite, and if so how did you do it?

I am aware of the replacement v. from Lutons and releathering products. I am trying to maintain originality in this case. Thanks.

Steve
 
Good luck! That vulcanite on a IIIa is a vulcanized rubber product that would be about 70 years old now. When you try to get it completely off to rebond it you'll end up with a bunch of brittle little pieces and wonder how most of it came off so easily while other bits and pieces refuse to come off at all. I redid one of my bodies with a skin from Cameraleather. The hardest part was getting the "bits and pieces" off the body. It looks great!
 
Thanks Al and FPJ, My intention is to rebond without removing the vulcanite skin. I know this stuff is brittle and doesn't tolerate much handling after 70yrs. Maybe I am just trying to delay the inevitable and should reskin.

FPJ, did you rebond with the skin in place or did you remove it first? I was thinking I might be able to sneak some thin glue under the skin with a syringe inserted between the edge of the body shell and the vulcanite.
 
Hello:

I did exactly what you describe using as little glue as possible. A slow setting glue and some care seems to work: my vulcanite is still in place after five years.

yours
FPJ
 
FPJ,

Thanks. I think I am going to give it a try since there is nothing to lose. No doubt that the vulcanite is going to crumble as Al said above if I don't try something. If it does crumble, I think I will go with dark brown or black lizard skin.

Regards,
Steve
 
I have restuck small areas that have dislodged using super glue allowing it to flood slightly the space under the vulcanite where its lifted. Worked for me. I have also used a black bitumen sealing compound bought from he hardware store to fill very small areas and cracks - it sets quite hard (although it takes some time to do so and seems good for those tiny areas that sometimes crack awa and cannot be found to be replaced.
 
I'm not sure how good it is, but a simple glue stick has worked for me.

On my IIIa & IIIb I got rid of the original wrap because it stunk to high heaven 🙁
 
Sitting the camera in a window in the sunlight will warm up the vulcanite, and allow you to flex it more without cracking or breaking it. I've seen glue kits for sale at some camera shops which is specifically designed to bond vulcanite, leather, etc. to metal camera bodies. The glue comes with a needle point attachment which allows it to be applied precisely. Once the vulcanite is glued down, something should be used (like a plastic clamp) to hold it in place until the glue is dry.
 
Clamps and wood scraps to distribute force and liquid electrical tape. Be careful as it is brittle. This is a rubber that is heat bonded to the shell before camera assembly, ie vulcanised. Rubber cement would also work.
 
From one who has done it, do as little as possible, ie don't peel back too far, something is bound to snap or crack. Keep it warm to keep it a bit flexible. Old vulcanite may have shrunk. don't be surprise if it doesn't quite fit easily over the four screws on the front or if you are left with a slight space below the lens. Be VERY careful with the little bit near the slow speed dial.

You don't need much glue and nothing too exotic. Once it is in place it should stay there for a good few years.
 
I used black silicone sealant from Locktite with great results. It blends with the Vulcanite and leaves invisible residues which can eventually be peeled with your thumb once dry.
 
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