M6 vs. M6 TTL vs. M7

I have had a very well worn old M6 for many years and have never had a problem. I bought an M6TTL new in box at a good price and was very irritated by the shutter dial being backwards. It still bothers me. I had no intention of using flash because I'm a purist. However, when I was asked to do a wedding, I bought a Leica flash and I found that the TTL flash metering enabled much better control of fill flash than an ordinary flash in A mode on the M6.
 
well, since you mention you appreciate AE, if you have the money the M7 gives the choice of auto or manual exposure control (and fairly easy exposure lock). which would then seem to be the clearer choice for your preference/style of shooting.

i've had a couple of M7 bodies. the accuracy of its AE surprises me, i have to say. in changing light and indoors it's more reliable than one would expect, imho.

my 2 cents. you truly can't go wrong with any of 'em.
 
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I am getting more serious about buying a Leica (somehow I knew getting a Canon Canonet QL17 would lead to this). As I would like I built in meter, I'm trying to decide between these three models; M6, M6 TTL, and M7. I want as much quality in as small of a package as possible, so a body like the M3 or M2 seems like a bad idea since I'd want to also carry a light meter.

Might be blasphemous saying this on the Leica M forum but why not consider the Leica CL? or M5?
I bought the CL as an inexpensive means to get into the M mount - ended up with one that has a dead meter but am considering sending it off to Sherry for a CLA. It doesn't have AE but the shutter is completely mechanical and doesn't depend on a battery. It doesn't have 35mm framelines - but you can 'eyeball' a 35 using the 40mm framelines which are always present. It does have 50 and 90 framelines.

My thought was at a minimum I can build up my M lens inventory (28 Skopar, 50/2 collapsible, 50 industar - waiting for a 40 Rokkor or Leica), eventually either buying an M2/3/4/5/6.
 
Tamarkin has several M7's with warrantees for around $1800. Some of them have motor M's too.

Edit:

Leica M7 Black #2778xxx with Leicavit-M (Ex+), Ex++ $1,895

Leica M7 Black #2778xxx with Motor-M, Ex++ Ex + now $1,695

Leica M7 Black #2778xxx with Motor M, boxes, Ex++ $2,295

Leica M7 Black #2886xxx, box/strap/IB, one-year warranty, Ex+ $1,795

Not affiliated with them at all. Just saying.
 
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Tamarkin has several M7's with warrantees for around $1800. Some of them have motor M's too.

Edit:

Leica M7 Black #2778xxx with Leicavit-M (Ex+), Ex++ $1,895

Leica M7 Black #2778xxx with Motor-M, Ex++ Ex + now $1,695

Leica M7 Black #2778xxx with Motor M, boxes, Ex++ $2,295

Leica M7 Black #2886xxx, box/strap/IB, one-year warranty, Ex+ $1,795

Not affiliated with them at all. Just saying.

That is much cheaper than Ebay!! :eek:
 
Tamarkin has several M7's with warrantees for around $1800. Some of them have motor M's too.

Edit:

Leica M7 Black #2778xxx with Leicavit-M (Ex+), Ex++ $1,895

Leica M7 Black #2778xxx with Motor-M, Ex++ Ex + now $1,695

Leica M7 Black #2778xxx with Motor M, boxes, Ex++ $2,295

Leica M7 Black #2886xxx, box/strap/IB, one-year warranty, Ex+ $1,795

Not affiliated with them at all. Just saying.

Love their rating scale, a bunch of EX grades and Very Good. What is it, Lake Wobegon?
 
They are all good cameras...

However, M6 ttl and M7 speed dial are rotating "wrong way" compared to earlier leicas....

True!

But, if you're used to Nikons and Canons, then the shutter dial on these two rotate the "right" way ( That is, the same was as your Nikon/Cannon). Considering that RF's are great for fast, instinctive shooting, I think it's a point worth considering.
 
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earlier someone said the M6TTL was less flare prone than the M6. I thought they had the exact same finder?!?!

As for build, the TTL is no different to the M6 classic in my experience. This is comparing 2million or later ser# M6s against TTLs. Both seem identical and plenty good enough!
 
If you're getting M6, have a look at this page.

http://www.cameraquest.com/m6dif.htm

#3 Rewind Knob on tip of Lever Machined Metal (<--- Not cheap plastic. I love this. :D)

Ken Rockwell says he bought his M7 for USD 1700 on Ebay. I have yet to see one on Ebay at that price. :(

Interesting, thanks for that link.

I doubt I'll buy one from eBay. I'd prefer to pick one up locally or a dealer.
 
Might be blasphemous saying this on the Leica M forum but why not consider the Leica CL? or M5?

I've given serious thought to the CL, and haven't ruled it out. The M5 on the other had doesn't seem to be as good of a choice price wise. Having said that if I happen upon the right M-Mount camera, at the right price, I'll get it. I've also considered a Voigtlander or Zeiss, but am less interested in them than the M6.
 
I just bought an M7. I used to have an MP, which is, for all intents and purposes, a dolled up M6. The M7's AE really makes or breaks the deal in this decision, whether you need it or not.
 
I've given serious thought to the CL, and haven't ruled it out. The M5 on the other had doesn't seem to be as good of a choice price wise. Having said that if I happen upon the right M-Mount camera, at the right price, I'll get it. I've also considered a Voigtlander or Zeiss, but am less interested in them than the M6.

I'd say stick with M6 (or TTL) over CL or M5. They both need more difficult/expensive repair due to the implementation of light meter cell and its availability, and M5 is quite larger than other Ms. And of course you can't use many of collapsible lenses and some wide angles because of meter arm.

They will make an excellent second body as backup or enjoy something different, but maybe not the first&only M (CL isn't, technically) that I'd recommend.
 
I'd say stick with M6 (or TTL) over CL or M5. They both need more difficult/expensive repair due to the implementation of light meter cell and its availability, and M5 is quite larger than other Ms. And of course you can't use many of collapsible lenses and some wide angles because of meter arm.

They will make an excellent second body as backup or enjoy something different, but maybe not the first&only M (CL isn't, technically) that I'd recommend.

I do believe one can get a CLA'd CL that is less expensive than a non-CLA'd M6.

Current CL KEH bgn is at $339, factor in a CLA @ ~$250 or so and you're looking at a working M mount camera at less than $600. It would be a challenge to get an M6 at $600. Mind you, I agree that it does have its negatives (small RF baseline, can't use some collapsibles, etc...) but the OP's intended use lead me to believe he/she will be ok using it.

.....Should it matter, I'll mainly be shooting with 35mm and 50mm lenses, I am thinking that I want to start with either the 35mm f/2 Summicron, or some sort of 50mm. How much I spend on the body will definitely have an effect on what lens I get as a first lens.
 
AE is a life saver, especially for those of us who spend ages focusing and framing :)

I dont get it why speed dial rotation direction is mentioned so often here in forum, not just this thread. but thats just me :confused:
 
I do believe one can get a CLA'd CL that is less expensive than a non-CLA'd M6.

I'm talking about repair cost/difficulty AFTER you get one. For example CL's meter cell availability is very limited it will be even harder in the future. Sherry and only a few others can do real good service on it. I think with M6, you'll lose less money in the long run. And I still think the limitation of lenses you can use due to meter arm isn't ideal as one and only (and first) M body. And often times, if you like CL, you'll wanna get an M anyway. ;) I've owned couple of CLs and I love that little thing. But OP will be happier with M6 considering he/she was originally comparing M6/TTL/M7.
 
I dont get it why speed dial rotation direction is mentioned so often here in forum, not just this thread. but thats just me :confused:

I think this largely depends on which direction you've gone or you'll likely take from here. If he/she wants to explore older Ms, M6 classic's dial is the "right" way. If digital M is in his/her future, then TTL/M7 way is the "right" way. If you are planning to keep only one body at a time, then I'd say the dial size/direction doesn't matter.
 
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