Sekonic L398 Operation

[daaris]

I have a Sekonic L398 light meter with all slides, I understand its worth but can't figure out for the life of me how to use it. I did a search here and it yielded some good info but not on the use of it. Does anyone know of any good links or references on the web(googled it too!). Thanks for any help, I can't wait to use it!

 

[Jerevan]

Don't know if this helps: http://www.johndesq.com/pinhole/mansekonic.htm

 

[ravid905]

The site Jerevan suggested is where I went to figure out mine. Unfortunately it won't help you with all the slides. You can try downloading the manual from the 398M, maybe there will be something in there about the slides. http://www.sekonic.com/support/support_21.asp

 

[vipulmalhotra]

Don't know if this helps http://www.omrhome.com

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

The slides are marked with a film speed and shutter speed. You insert the slide that corresponds to the film speed and shutter speed you want to use, and the pointer on the meter will automatically point to the correct f-stop. You don't use the calculator dial with the slides..they're designed for fast direct from the needle f-stop readouts!

 

[sevo]

The slides are marked with a film speed and shutter speed.

All Sekonic slides (and most Norwood slides, though old cinematography books mention some with direct markings) are marked NO1-NO11 and H (for High). There is a little plastic sleeve inside the slide case with a table of film sensitivities and corresponding exposure time. Scan attached, for all who have lost theirs.

 

[Dwig]

There are two "classes" of slides for these meters (Norwood Director, Sekonic L-28, L-28c, L-28c2, L-398, ...):

The first "class" is a set of one slide, the H or "High" slide. With no slide in the meter you use the calculator dial to convert the meter needle indication into ISO-f/stop-shutter speed values or into EV values using the L pointer on the calculator. With the H slide in you do the same using the H pointer. This is the primary way to use the meter for still photography.

The second "class" of slides are the set of "direct reading" slides. When using these you ignore the calculator dial. You choose the appropriate slide based on ISO and shutter speed (framing rate and shutter angle if using cine cameras), using the table if necessary. With the proper slide in place the meter needle indicates the f/stop to use. This is the primary way to use the meter for cine work.

 

[sevo]

As an extra to the first class there is the red "color" slide to the Norwood, which acts as a direct readout for early Kodachrome at 1/125, IIRC. It is only 1/3 stop off the H slide, so it is often used in place of a lost one.

 

[Ron G]

I am reading that you have to point the sensor toward the camera?Is this correct?Ron G

 

[sevo]

I am reading that you have to point the sensor toward the camera?Is this correct?Ron G

For incident metering with the incident dome this is generally right. But there are variations whenever you deliberately want to expose for the highlights or shadows. For shooting chromes with the main light at a flat angle, most experienced photographers will point their incident meter to half the angle between camera and light, to bias the exposure towards the highlights.

 

[Ron G]

Thanks.All I have is the flat white plastic,another round black one with holes in it and the rectangular insert that says "H" on it.This is contrary to any other light meter or camera that I have and I have several.The light meter appears brand new but it does not agree with anything else that I have in comparison readings the way that I am attempting to use it.
Is there any way that it will work by pointing it at the subject like I would expect a light meter to be used?Thanks for your reply.Ron G

 

[sevo]

Thanks.All I have is the flat white plastic,another round black one with holes in it and the rectangular insert that says "H" on it.

You are missing the dome. It is still available from Sekonic - and while it receives a smaller amount of off-axis light, the flat incident diffuser can be used as well - direct it at the main light rather than the camera. The round black "sieve" is the reflected light grid - with that, you may point the meter at the subject. Beware: the "H"igh slide cannot be used on reflected light readings, the odd directionality of that stack of grids makes the readings very error-prone.

 

[2bugles]

For using the 398 in reflective mode replace the Lumisphere with the Lumidisc and point the meter at the part of the subject to be measured. Press the button and read footcandle scale value. Transfer value to the dial scale and rotate dial ring setting the "H" mark at the value. Shutter/aperture combinations are now correct.

 

[Dwig]

For using the 398 in reflective mode replace the Lumisphere with the Lumidisc and point the meter at the part of the subject to be measured. Press the button and read footcandle scale value. Transfer value to the dial scale and rotate dial ring setting the "H" mark at the value. Shutter/aperture combinations are now correct.

That's not quite correct. Both the Lumidisk and Lumisphere are for incident metering (metering the light falling onto the subject). For reflected readings you use the Lumigrid.

Generally the Lumisphere is used with the meter at the subject's postion and pointing toward the camera. The Limidisk is generally used from the subject position facing each of the light sources in turn and using the various readings to determine their relative brightnesses (lighting ratio). It is also used for technical readings to measure lumens. The Lumigrid is used for reflected readings.

 

[2bugles]

Quite right Dwig, I got my disc and grid all crossed-up. I hope the rest of my explanation was correct, it should be since I read it straight from the manual which I smartly ordered at the same time I ordered my slightly used meter.

 

[Ron G]

Thanks for the input.The user manuals are widely available on line and I will spend some more time with it and the documentation to try to resolve my issues with it.I would never have expected there to be so many changes required in my thinking.I have an older Sekonic,an old Weston and an old Tower that work just fine in the conventional way,I cannot use the Weston because it only goes up to 100 ASA as I recall but the other two agree with my cameras that have meters.I repair this old stuff and it would be nice to have a standard of comparison to check other meters by but that might be asking a lot on my budget.Thanks again for the feedback.Ron G

 

[borrel]

The original manual for the L-398 is here: http://www.butkus.org/chinon/flashes_meters/sekonic_l-398/sekonic_l-398.htm
-Børre