ND filter, slower film...

Lauffray

Lauffray

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...or both ?
What do you guys (and gals) usually do to get shallow depth of field even in daylight?
I'm slightly leaning towards the ND filter because it would give me more flexibility (just take it off when i need more light)
 
Both my RF's only go to 1/1000 and I like running Fuji 160s and slower film, but I'm also in the Desert most of the time, so, I just ordered an ND8 to go with my F/1.1 Nokton 😀
 
To those who use a combo of both slow film and filter, how wide can you go in daylight?
I'm interested in apertures f/2 and faster (on a 35mm) knowing that my camera maxes out at 1/1000
 
Lauffray said:
To those who use a combo of both slow film and filter, how wide can you go in daylight?
I'm interested in apertures f/2 and faster (on a 35mm) knowing that my camera maxes out at 1/1000
Click to expand...

I don't use filters, especially not on really sunny days. The flare really ruins too many shots.

The reality is that for much of the year, "Sunny 16" is "Sunny 11" or "Sunny 8" in the northern US where I live. And my subjects are often in shade anyway, so you get f/2 or wider at 1/1000.

Obviously this depends on where you live. I really don't see f/16 @ film speed very frequently when I use a meter. On the other hand, I don't ask my subjects to stare into the sun when I'm taking a close-up portrait, so 50 ISO (or 25 ISO) is slow enough to use f/2 even in the summer at high noon.
 
This past weekend was my first time shooting Tri-X @1250 anticipating development in Diafine. Using a yellow-orange filter (4x factor), I was at f/8-f/11 at 1000s most of the time (subject was the white State Capital building in Providence, RI.). My thoughts are to get both a B+W 0.9 and 1.8.

Do any of you stack a color filter over an ND and is that the right order or does it matter?
 
I'll vote for slower film rather than ND filters. If I am going slow, I might as well pick up the rich tonality that the slow film will give me... true, you're not as flexible as with an ND filter...
 
One trick I've used is to mount a pair of polarisers. Rotate one against the other until you get what you want. Works best on an SLR but you can get near-darkness on a sunny day. Sort of variable-ND with added polariser!
 
If you want to use F1.0 or even F1.8 wide open with the Leica M system using 100-400 ASA, then ND and/or polarizers are going to be part of the equation. I use the B+W 8x ND filter with Noctilux 50 1.0 with ASA 100-400 all the time. I sometimes also use a B+W polarizer when I need to cut back on the light a little. I recently picked up a B+W polarizer for the Voigtlander 28 1.9 ASPH after unsuccessfully trying to track down a B+W ND in 49 mm for that lens. I also use a 72 mm Nikon polarizer on my Nikkor 28 1.4 AF-D a majority of the time on my D3 during the day in order to use that lens wide open.

While I have never "liked" using filters on lenses, I have and will continue to use ND and a polarizer on my fast glass in order to use it wide open. Until they bring back 25 ASA colour film, there is no choice if you want to use F1.0 or even 1.8 wide open with Leica M film cameras.

It's funny but one of the only reasons I really wanted an M9 was the faster shutter speed with this camera. After waiting this long and still not being able to get a camera from my dealer, they can keep their M9. Especially since I've got my eye on a black MP to go with my M3/M6/M7. My M3 needs some work and is going in this week. Film is cheap 😛. Waiting for Leica to make me an M9?
A waste of time 🙄.

Perhaps Leica will come out with a film camera with 1/8000 of a second some day.

I must say that I've never had problem with flare but in truth I always flag my lens with my hand if the sun is hitting the front element.

Gregory
 
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