Benjamin Marks
Veteran
My EP-2 arrived in the middle of last week. I am traveling at the moment and, while I do not yet have pictures to post, thought I would share a few observations.
Oddly, I haven't put the 20/2.8 kit lens on it yet. I am having too much fun with the Leica-M adapter I got from Cameraquest. With it, and with the adapters that I already own, I can use all of my Leica-M glass (Leica, Zeiss ZM), as well as C/V glass, LTM lenses (Leica, C/V, Pentax), Nikon-S and Contax RF lenses on the camera. Next week a Pentax screw-mount adapter will arrive; I had been holding off on one for Nikon-F mount lenses, but based on this week's experience, there now seems little reason to put that purchase off. A major strength of this camera is its excellent cross-platform ability -- and this is one of the reasons I purchased it. So I have packed heavier on this trip, ironically because of this small machine (e.g. 50/1.5 Sonnar AND 50 Summilux AND Nokton etc.). One simplifying feature: because you are focussing through the lens from the light hitting the chip, you don't have to worry about 1) backfocus/front-focus issues inherent in a lens' design (C/V 40/1.4, 28/2) or lenses that are not tweaked to the nearest micron (I have a 90AA that I cannot get to play nice w/my M8 -- on the EP-2, no problem), 2) manufacturing variations in LTM-M adapters, 3) the Nikon/Contax bug-bear--use an adapter for one, it doesn't matter. If you are a lens-hound, this camera is very, very useful and some of my frustrations with calibrating an RF system simply went "poof." (Ironically, I may put off sending a 90 AA to Leica NJ for adjustment because I can now use it with no care for the micro-placement of the focussing cam. It just works on the little beast.)
On this trip I have brought an absurd array of lenses, just for fun:12, 15, 2x21, 2x35, 5x50 (an old Opton, a new Sonnar, a Summicron, a Russian Helios, a Nokton), 75, 90 . . . The only lens that I have tried and failed to mount on the camera so far is the FSU 35/2.8 (rear element too large).
Some random observations: When you press the shutter, there is a satisfying "thunk" and the camera is well-sized to my medium sized mitts. Overall, the camera feels more solid than the Panny LX-3.
If there is a weak spot mechanically, it is the battery/SD door in the bottom of the camera, which feels much flimsier than the rest of the machine. Another design infelicity is that there is a scroll-cylinder just under the right thumb, which is used to scroll through various menu items. The camera is slightly thicker on that side. I am right-handed and i have reached for the camera, only to find that my thumb naturally lands on the cylinder causing it to roll and the camera to slip. Danger, Will Robinson.
With my increasingly middle-aged eyes, I find that I am much more comfortable using the dedicated EVF, rather than focussing on the back panel. This is necessary because I am only using manual focus lenses at this point. At low light levels there is some graininess to the image as the camera boosts gain from the chip to provide a useful image for focussing. However, my ability to focus with the EVF is superior to the results I got using, say, the original Canon Rebel or any of the Pentax DSLRs. I am very satisfied with the results -- at least if my pictures are awful, it has nothing to do with missed focus.
As I am not using the camera's AF feature, I cannot yet say how well it works. Firmware is 1.0 and I will update next week when I am home. I have been using the IS, but I can't really say yet how many stops (if any) it adds. Most of the lenses that I am using are pretty fast -- I am really anxious to see how the IS works with superspeed lenses like the 35/1.2, 50/1, 50/1.1, 75/1.4. This, combined with decent high ISO performance up to 1600, is one technical area where a camera like this could really open up new possibilities. The in-camera images at high ISOs look good, but I won't really know what the camera is capable of until I get home and figure out a workflow for the RAW images.
I have so far only evaluated jpgs from the camera -- I can confirm what reviewers on DPReview and others have said: jpgs out of the camera have great color, are sharp and need little if any work. With my other cameras, I use RAW only -- this week I have been using RAW+large jpg. Write times with this combination are noticeably faster than with the M8. I will add to this post next week with some images to make these observations more concrete. I know that there has been some fussin' over the ability of the camera to handle non-OEM wides. So far, I haven't seen it, but I will really have to get into this week's pictures in photoshop to see whether there is an issue. Yesterday, with a C/V 12mm lens, the thing worked well as a shoot-from-the-hip street cam.
The will-it-work-with-wides question is interesting, because I have been spoiled by the M8 in this way. Even with a 1.3 "crop factor" a 21 or a 24 on an M8 still feels to me like a wide angle lens. With the EP-2's 2x crop, this really is less the case and it will push my lens choices towards 35mm and wider.
What I am convinced of though, after just a week, is that the concept really works. I would like a larger chip and I think that an M10 could learn a lot from this design. This is particularly true because the strength of this system, as far as third-party lenses go, is that the most difficult physical engineering problem in Leicas (namely, accurate RF calibration with lenses manufactured over the last 60 years) just goes away. If you can mount it, and the lens groups haven't been inserted backwards, you can focus it.
I think that this is the wave of the future. Impressions of IQ to follow over the next several days.
Ben Marks
Oddly, I haven't put the 20/2.8 kit lens on it yet. I am having too much fun with the Leica-M adapter I got from Cameraquest. With it, and with the adapters that I already own, I can use all of my Leica-M glass (Leica, Zeiss ZM), as well as C/V glass, LTM lenses (Leica, C/V, Pentax), Nikon-S and Contax RF lenses on the camera. Next week a Pentax screw-mount adapter will arrive; I had been holding off on one for Nikon-F mount lenses, but based on this week's experience, there now seems little reason to put that purchase off. A major strength of this camera is its excellent cross-platform ability -- and this is one of the reasons I purchased it. So I have packed heavier on this trip, ironically because of this small machine (e.g. 50/1.5 Sonnar AND 50 Summilux AND Nokton etc.). One simplifying feature: because you are focussing through the lens from the light hitting the chip, you don't have to worry about 1) backfocus/front-focus issues inherent in a lens' design (C/V 40/1.4, 28/2) or lenses that are not tweaked to the nearest micron (I have a 90AA that I cannot get to play nice w/my M8 -- on the EP-2, no problem), 2) manufacturing variations in LTM-M adapters, 3) the Nikon/Contax bug-bear--use an adapter for one, it doesn't matter. If you are a lens-hound, this camera is very, very useful and some of my frustrations with calibrating an RF system simply went "poof." (Ironically, I may put off sending a 90 AA to Leica NJ for adjustment because I can now use it with no care for the micro-placement of the focussing cam. It just works on the little beast.)
On this trip I have brought an absurd array of lenses, just for fun:12, 15, 2x21, 2x35, 5x50 (an old Opton, a new Sonnar, a Summicron, a Russian Helios, a Nokton), 75, 90 . . . The only lens that I have tried and failed to mount on the camera so far is the FSU 35/2.8 (rear element too large).
Some random observations: When you press the shutter, there is a satisfying "thunk" and the camera is well-sized to my medium sized mitts. Overall, the camera feels more solid than the Panny LX-3.
If there is a weak spot mechanically, it is the battery/SD door in the bottom of the camera, which feels much flimsier than the rest of the machine. Another design infelicity is that there is a scroll-cylinder just under the right thumb, which is used to scroll through various menu items. The camera is slightly thicker on that side. I am right-handed and i have reached for the camera, only to find that my thumb naturally lands on the cylinder causing it to roll and the camera to slip. Danger, Will Robinson.
With my increasingly middle-aged eyes, I find that I am much more comfortable using the dedicated EVF, rather than focussing on the back panel. This is necessary because I am only using manual focus lenses at this point. At low light levels there is some graininess to the image as the camera boosts gain from the chip to provide a useful image for focussing. However, my ability to focus with the EVF is superior to the results I got using, say, the original Canon Rebel or any of the Pentax DSLRs. I am very satisfied with the results -- at least if my pictures are awful, it has nothing to do with missed focus.
As I am not using the camera's AF feature, I cannot yet say how well it works. Firmware is 1.0 and I will update next week when I am home. I have been using the IS, but I can't really say yet how many stops (if any) it adds. Most of the lenses that I am using are pretty fast -- I am really anxious to see how the IS works with superspeed lenses like the 35/1.2, 50/1, 50/1.1, 75/1.4. This, combined with decent high ISO performance up to 1600, is one technical area where a camera like this could really open up new possibilities. The in-camera images at high ISOs look good, but I won't really know what the camera is capable of until I get home and figure out a workflow for the RAW images.
I have so far only evaluated jpgs from the camera -- I can confirm what reviewers on DPReview and others have said: jpgs out of the camera have great color, are sharp and need little if any work. With my other cameras, I use RAW only -- this week I have been using RAW+large jpg. Write times with this combination are noticeably faster than with the M8. I will add to this post next week with some images to make these observations more concrete. I know that there has been some fussin' over the ability of the camera to handle non-OEM wides. So far, I haven't seen it, but I will really have to get into this week's pictures in photoshop to see whether there is an issue. Yesterday, with a C/V 12mm lens, the thing worked well as a shoot-from-the-hip street cam.
The will-it-work-with-wides question is interesting, because I have been spoiled by the M8 in this way. Even with a 1.3 "crop factor" a 21 or a 24 on an M8 still feels to me like a wide angle lens. With the EP-2's 2x crop, this really is less the case and it will push my lens choices towards 35mm and wider.
What I am convinced of though, after just a week, is that the concept really works. I would like a larger chip and I think that an M10 could learn a lot from this design. This is particularly true because the strength of this system, as far as third-party lenses go, is that the most difficult physical engineering problem in Leicas (namely, accurate RF calibration with lenses manufactured over the last 60 years) just goes away. If you can mount it, and the lens groups haven't been inserted backwards, you can focus it.
I think that this is the wave of the future. Impressions of IQ to follow over the next several days.
Ben Marks
DabCan10
Established
Fantastic, reading your post has confirmed much of what I had inferred from reading many reviews around the web. This new camera format really does have huge potential with it's ability to use almost any lens.
People always say that the best camera is the one that you have with you, and the smaller form factor of these cameras definitely helps. I shoot a lot of film, partially because my Bessa R is a lot smaller than my Nikon D300. A smaller camera wouldn't convince me to quit film, but I'd likely use it a lot more.
I'm currently debating selling off my Nikon kit for one of these cameras but may wait for generation #2 and see what some of the other companies will offer. (that and the money fairy to make a delivery to my bank account...)
Look forward to hearing more from you about this camera.
People always say that the best camera is the one that you have with you, and the smaller form factor of these cameras definitely helps. I shoot a lot of film, partially because my Bessa R is a lot smaller than my Nikon D300. A smaller camera wouldn't convince me to quit film, but I'd likely use it a lot more.
I'm currently debating selling off my Nikon kit for one of these cameras but may wait for generation #2 and see what some of the other companies will offer. (that and the money fairy to make a delivery to my bank account...)
Look forward to hearing more from you about this camera.
Welcome to micro 4/3. I really like the E-P2, if it had the Panasonic user interface, it would be my choice. My favorite adapted lens: 35/2 Planar Contax G.
I really like the E-P2, if it had the Panasonic user interface, it would be my choice. My favorite adapted lens: 35/2 Planar Contax G.Benjamin Marks
Veteran
I am still making my peace with the interface. Olympus has gotten several things right though: exposure compensation is right there (button + scroll cylinder - only requires one hand), ISO selection is accessible from the back with one button. Of course these things can all be learned.
Ben
Ben
Vince Lupo
Whatever
Good to read about another happy E-P2 customer!
If you're really looking for a wide lens for this camera, the 7-14mm f/4 Panasonic is great. It's almost too wide, and I'm still trying to get comfortable with it. For landscapes, it is excellent. For people shots in tight spaces, the 7mm end of the lens seems too wide for me, but then again I would rarely shoot with a 14 on a 35mm camera, so I guess it equates.
The only thing that I have found a bit cumbersome is converting RAW images with the Olympus software. It is a bit time consuming, though maybe I just need to familiarize myself with the software some more.
Would love to see some photos from your initial shooting!
If you're really looking for a wide lens for this camera, the 7-14mm f/4 Panasonic is great. It's almost too wide, and I'm still trying to get comfortable with it. For landscapes, it is excellent. For people shots in tight spaces, the 7mm end of the lens seems too wide for me, but then again I would rarely shoot with a 14 on a 35mm camera, so I guess it equates.
The only thing that I have found a bit cumbersome is converting RAW images with the Olympus software. It is a bit time consuming, though maybe I just need to familiarize myself with the software some more.
Would love to see some photos from your initial shooting!
Benjamin Marks
Veteran
Vince:
Do you know off-hand whether they convert in ACR? I am trying to avoid more one-off software installations if I can. Interesting about the Panasonic. For all the gear I've got, I don't actually own a zoom lens. I had a couple in the 1980's but really got out of the habit. I know zooms have come a long way since then. I should be back home beginning of next week and will post some photos (or links) then. The trick will be remembering which snaps were taken with which lens.
Ben
Ben
Do you know off-hand whether they convert in ACR? I am trying to avoid more one-off software installations if I can. Interesting about the Panasonic. For all the gear I've got, I don't actually own a zoom lens. I had a couple in the 1980's but really got out of the habit. I know zooms have come a long way since then. I should be back home beginning of next week and will post some photos (or links) then. The trick will be remembering which snaps were taken with which lens.
Ben
Ben
Vince Lupo
Whatever
In PhotoShop CS3 the camera RAW software does not recognize the file, but in the CS4 versions of camera RAW, 5.7 and 6.0 supposedly do. This is just what I've quickly checked online, as my CS3 doesn't recognize it, so I'm not totally up on this. I'll update when I get a new computer!
Vince Lupo
Whatever
Ben, have you seen these?
http://cgi.ebay.com/JnK-handworks-h...ultDomain_0&hash=item335c9828bb#ht_6596wt_913
Expensive, but stunningly gorgeous!
http://cgi.ebay.com/JnK-handworks-h...ultDomain_0&hash=item335c9828bb#ht_6596wt_913
Expensive, but stunningly gorgeous!
campbellcj
Established
I'm still getting used to my E-P2 as well and am loving it so far.
FWIW, Lightroom 3 beta 2 converts the raw files fine.
FWIW, Lightroom 3 beta 2 converts the raw files fine.
Benjamin Marks
Veteran
Vince: I followed your e-bay link. Those are nice looking cases.
Ben
Ben
squirrel$$$bandit
Veteran
If you want a nice case, get Aki-Asahi's--it's only $100 and is just as nice. Actually it has a really distinctive style.
Vince Lupo
Whatever
I'll check those cases out -- I've heard of them, and it would be nice to have a case for my camera. My wife wants me to get a RED one!
My goal with the E-P2 is to shoot a commercial job with this camera -- I've done some 'supplemental' shots with the E-P2 on a job to support what I'm doing with my D-700, but I'm going to try to do a shoot exclusively with the E-P2. I did check with one of my clients to see if a 35mb file will work for them, and they said that's fine -- I've done really nice magazine covers with 23mb files from a D70s, so the E-P2 should be fine.
My goal with the E-P2 is to shoot a commercial job with this camera -- I've done some 'supplemental' shots with the E-P2 on a job to support what I'm doing with my D-700, but I'm going to try to do a shoot exclusively with the E-P2. I did check with one of my clients to see if a 35mb file will work for them, and they said that's fine -- I've done really nice magazine covers with 23mb files from a D70s, so the E-P2 should be fine.
mls64
Member
Great summary, Ben. I have had my E-P2 for about two weeks and absolutely love it. The Panasonic 20mm lens is particularly wonderful. Can't wait for my Contax G lens adapter to arrive so that I can play with my Zeiss glass.
Also, I use two straps - a really nice home-brew sling-type strap, and a leather wrist strap from Gordy's Camera Straps which is perfect for the E-Pen sized cameras.
Also, I use two straps - a really nice home-brew sling-type strap, and a leather wrist strap from Gordy's Camera Straps which is perfect for the E-Pen sized cameras.
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usayit
Well-known
Great information.. and great timing (for me).
In the beginning, I wasn't at all convinced of the M4/3rds format so I purchased a used panasonic G1 for a good price to play around with. The G1 has been used to adapt both my Leica M-mount lenses and M42 Takumars. Now that I am finding more use out of the system, I am looking towards Olympus cameras as a replacement for the G1 primarily because of the compact size, superior EVF to the GF1, and in-body Image stabilization.
I am currently evaluating the differences between the E-PL1 and the E-P2 at my local camera shop. One the biggest concerns I have with the E-P2 is activation of focus magnification. The E-PL1 has a dedicated button to activate while I had difficulty finding the feature on the E-P2. I did actually activate it but it was by pushing many keys and I wasn't sure if it was simply being unfamiliar with the camera. Could you describe how the you enable focus magnification on the E-P2? how did it work in real world use?
Also, can you confirm that IS is working with manual lenses? Do you feel it is effective in real world use?
In the beginning, I wasn't at all convinced of the M4/3rds format so I purchased a used panasonic G1 for a good price to play around with. The G1 has been used to adapt both my Leica M-mount lenses and M42 Takumars. Now that I am finding more use out of the system, I am looking towards Olympus cameras as a replacement for the G1 primarily because of the compact size, superior EVF to the GF1, and in-body Image stabilization.
I am currently evaluating the differences between the E-PL1 and the E-P2 at my local camera shop. One the biggest concerns I have with the E-P2 is activation of focus magnification. The E-PL1 has a dedicated button to activate while I had difficulty finding the feature on the E-P2. I did actually activate it but it was by pushing many keys and I wasn't sure if it was simply being unfamiliar with the camera. Could you describe how the you enable focus magnification on the E-P2? how did it work in real world use?
Also, can you confirm that IS is working with manual lenses? Do you feel it is effective in real world use?
Vince Lupo
Whatever
I found the focus magnification to be rather annoying, so I turned it off. I believe you can go into the custom menus and turn on and off various features, the focus magnification being one of them. I don't know if there's a quick way to turn it on and off on the fly though.
As far as manual lenses go with image stabilization, that I can't answer as I don't yet have a lens adapter. I would probably say the answer is no, but maybe someone who has actually used a manual lens on the camera would know for certain.
As far as manual lenses go with image stabilization, that I can't answer as I don't yet have a lens adapter. I would probably say the answer is no, but maybe someone who has actually used a manual lens on the camera would know for certain.
Benjamin Marks
Veteran
IS does work with manual lenses on the EP-2. I have some snaps made two nights ago at night using a ZM 21 Biogon, standing in Columbus Circle in NYC and photographing the traffic as it turned off of 6th Avenue. The lens was stopped down to f:5.6 or so to control the length of the tail-light trails. Exposure was probably on the order of 1/2 second to 1 second; the cars are invisible, other than the red streaks of their moving tail lights, but the lamp posts behind them are reasonably sharp for a hand-held exposure.
I have been shooting with the IS on unless I am outside during the day; except for the long hand-held exposures described above it is hard to discern the effect. I will post one of these pictures next week on this thread.
On the EP-2, image magnification during focussing works this way: hit the info button until the green square is in the middle of the frame for focussing. I have the camera at its factory default settings so that is: [clean screen]-->[cross hairs]-->[ISO/IS info] --> [histogram]-->[green square]. When you are in this mode, the OK button toggles between a magnified and regular view. I actually find that this is helpful with critical focussing of wide-angle lenses. With those lenses, the object in focus can be fairly small on the viewing screen or EVF. I don't actually anticipate using it much, but it is helpful to know it is there and, I have to say, it took me about 20 minutes with the manual to figure it out.
[Edit: I have to say too that if I didn't use the EVF that I would probably use the focus magnification feature more often. It will help the reader to image a middle aged snapshooter moving the camera back and forth and tilting his head like a bobble-head doll to try to make the reading portion of his bifocals align correctly with the surface of the rear focussing screen . . . ahem. Not pretty and not conducive to a stable shooting position. If you can afford it, get the EVF.]
If I have one criticism of the printed materials that came with the camera, it is that they are not geared towards folks who are using the camera with MF lenses or non-Olympus lenses plus adapters. I supposed Olympus could be forgiven for that, but it does take a good dose of RTFM to figure some of the "deep menu" items out. So far the functions that I often want easy access to are: exposure compensation, IS-lens designation, and WB adjustment. Olympus implementation of these features is OK (certainly better than the M8, not nearly as good as the D3 -- but hey, there is lot less real estate to work with here). "OK" in this context means, direct access from the cameras buttons on their factory default settings, or not hard to figure out from top-level menus. I have not delved into the camera's customization routines; I will want to live with it for a while to see what is actually needed.
Ben Marks
I have been shooting with the IS on unless I am outside during the day; except for the long hand-held exposures described above it is hard to discern the effect. I will post one of these pictures next week on this thread.
On the EP-2, image magnification during focussing works this way: hit the info button until the green square is in the middle of the frame for focussing. I have the camera at its factory default settings so that is: [clean screen]-->[cross hairs]-->[ISO/IS info] --> [histogram]-->[green square]. When you are in this mode, the OK button toggles between a magnified and regular view. I actually find that this is helpful with critical focussing of wide-angle lenses. With those lenses, the object in focus can be fairly small on the viewing screen or EVF. I don't actually anticipate using it much, but it is helpful to know it is there and, I have to say, it took me about 20 minutes with the manual to figure it out.
[Edit: I have to say too that if I didn't use the EVF that I would probably use the focus magnification feature more often. It will help the reader to image a middle aged snapshooter moving the camera back and forth and tilting his head like a bobble-head doll to try to make the reading portion of his bifocals align correctly with the surface of the rear focussing screen . . . ahem. Not pretty and not conducive to a stable shooting position. If you can afford it, get the EVF.]
If I have one criticism of the printed materials that came with the camera, it is that they are not geared towards folks who are using the camera with MF lenses or non-Olympus lenses plus adapters. I supposed Olympus could be forgiven for that, but it does take a good dose of RTFM to figure some of the "deep menu" items out. So far the functions that I often want easy access to are: exposure compensation, IS-lens designation, and WB adjustment. Olympus implementation of these features is OK (certainly better than the M8, not nearly as good as the D3 -- but hey, there is lot less real estate to work with here). "OK" in this context means, direct access from the cameras buttons on their factory default settings, or not hard to figure out from top-level menus. I have not delved into the camera's customization routines; I will want to live with it for a while to see what is actually needed.
Ben Marks
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usayit
Well-known
Great! Thanks for the response.
One more question, do you have to scroll through all the items (hitting the info button) each time you want to bring up magnification? Or does it remember that you used magnification last and brings up the green box?
Much appreciated.
I am definitely getting the EVF as my primary purpose would be to use adapters with manual lenses. When I showed up at the store, I was biased towards the E-P2 kit that included the EVF. Once I discovered how much easier the magnification feature worked on the E-PL1, I am now leaning towards the E-PL1 and the EVF attachment. The E-PL1 + EVF places it approx $220 cheaper than the E-P2 kit and there seems a lot of incentive to spend the extra $220 for the E-P2 BUT magnification is that important to me. If it is annoying I would just end up not using it as intended... tough decision.
One more question, do you have to scroll through all the items (hitting the info button) each time you want to bring up magnification? Or does it remember that you used magnification last and brings up the green box?
Much appreciated.
I am definitely getting the EVF as my primary purpose would be to use adapters with manual lenses. When I showed up at the store, I was biased towards the E-P2 kit that included the EVF. Once I discovered how much easier the magnification feature worked on the E-PL1, I am now leaning towards the E-PL1 and the EVF attachment. The E-PL1 + EVF places it approx $220 cheaper than the E-P2 kit and there seems a lot of incentive to spend the extra $220 for the E-P2 BUT magnification is that important to me. If it is annoying I would just end up not using it as intended... tough decision.
david.elliott
Well-known
You dont have to rescroll to the green box each time. It stays up until you hit the info button again to change it.
The evf has been difficult to find in stock on its own.
E-P2 with evf = $899
EPL-1 = $599 plus EVF at $250 = $849
I just went with the E-P2 so I didnt have to try and find the evf in stock separately. Fifty dollars wasnt worth waiting for potentially weeks on end trying to get an evf.
The evf has been difficult to find in stock on its own.
E-P2 with evf = $899
EPL-1 = $599 plus EVF at $250 = $849
I just went with the E-P2 so I didnt have to try and find the evf in stock separately. Fifty dollars wasnt worth waiting for potentially weeks on end trying to get an evf.
Steve Busby
Newbie
Hi, this is my first post on this forum. I have a GF1 and E-P2, and have had great results with my Leica M lenses, ON the GF1!! BUT the E-P2 has been a very different story.
I have found focusing the GF1 very easy, and get very sharp results!! The E-P2 on the other hand is a pile of crap in comparison! I have not been able to get more than a few sharp results, even using the MF assist the results are very poor? I have tried both Leica and Voigtlander lenses on the E-P2, and both return poor shots.
I can even hyper-focus the GF1 and get stunning results!!
Anyone had similar problems with the E-P2, or do you think I my have a duff example?
Many thanks
Steve
I have found focusing the GF1 very easy, and get very sharp results!! The E-P2 on the other hand is a pile of crap in comparison! I have not been able to get more than a few sharp results, even using the MF assist the results are very poor? I have tried both Leica and Voigtlander lenses on the E-P2, and both return poor shots.
I can even hyper-focus the GF1 and get stunning results!!
Anyone had similar problems with the E-P2, or do you think I my have a duff example?
Many thanks
Steve
dfatty
Well-known
A common mod is to reduce the number of screens that are toggled through by hitting the info button, which you can do through the custom button set up. IIRC you can even set up the camera so only the green box is displayed and none of the other screens (histogram, clean screen, cross hairs, etc.) come up when you hit info. It reduces some of the annoyance, it is annoying to have to toggle through so many screens that you never use.
Another couple of custom buttons I find useful that others have suggested are setting the function (Fn) button to toggle between AF and MF, and moving the focusing to the AEL/AFL button.
No experience with the E-P2 but I've had no problems with focusing manual lenses on an E-P1. I've gotten some nice shots with a CV 50 1.5 and have definitely noticed the IS helping with slow shutter speeds.