So many decisions...

[tbarker13]

In the price range you are talking about, it sure does seem that the CV 35/1.2 or 35/1.4 would be the way to go.
My personal preference is the 35/1.4 pre-asph lux, but getting that and another m camera could be tough, depending on the deals you find.

Of the CV lenses, I think the 35/1.2 is just a stellar performer. If you don't like the size (or if you just don't really want one), go with the 35/1.4.

 

[jsrockit]

M4 or M2 w/ CV 35mm 1.4 and be done with it. Any other good idea people have given you has been shot down.

 

[maddoc]

My personal preference is the 35/1.4 pre-asph lux, but getting that and another m camera could be tough, depending on the deals you find.

+1. I would choice an 35/1.4 Summilux-M pre-ASPH and either an M4-P (preferred) or an M4-2. M4-P + 35/1.4 Summilux-M is a great combo at night from my experience. At night (and events / bars) you have high-contrast scenes and the slightly softness at f/1.4 is not that problem anymore:

About the flare problem, you can use the hood of the actual 35/2.0 ASPH with the 35/1.4 pre-ASPH Summilux-M and (without any filter) there won't be much problem with flare left. 🙂

 

[Tom A]

The distorsion issue with the 35f1.4 is overblown. In the type of shooting you do, night-time, bands etc minor edge distorsion is not a factor.
Either the 35f1.4 or a 40f1.4 would work very well - and be compact enough. Get an M2 rather than a M6 - the meter would be all over the place anyway with stage lights.
The 35f1.2 is the best super speed 35 - but it is not "svelte". If you are only using one camera, it is OK - but if you carry two bodies - you quickly start listing to the 35 side.
Occasionally I do take the 35f1.2 and the 50f1.1 out at the same time. You know you are carrying heavy artillery!
Pick up a M2 and either the 35f1.4 or a 40f1.4, keep the M3 for the time and if you find that you need a faster lens, add the Nokton 50 f1.1 later.
Getting shots is all about being comfortable - equipment, however good it is. that "fights back" (ergonomically clumsy) will hinder more than help.

 

[corefunk]

i agree with jsrockit and Tom. Decide on an M2 or M4 and a 35mm Summilux pre-asph.

You should be able to get an M2 for at least $500 on ebay and then $1800 for the lens. So it would set you a tad over but it would be what you are looking for.

 

[Vics]

You say you like your M3, (I love mine!) and that you'd REALLY like a 35 'Lux. Buy the lens you really want ('lux) keep the M3 and lenses and get a really good 35 Accessory viewfinder for it. I have a CV metal 35mm finder and it's great, even though it distorts more than my lens does. If you're buying the other body just for a spare body go for a good used Bessa. Put your money in FRONT of the camera where it counts in image quality!
Vic

 

[ferider]

M6 + 35/1.4 Nokton, get the M6 viewfinder upgrade, and your DR Summicron cleaned. The 1.4 Nokton is an outstanding lens. Get an MC copy, for the night/band shots.

Forget the barrel distortion, it's way blown out of proportion, due to the Nokton's direct competition with Leica lenses. And who would buy a > 1500$ lens, and later say it's not much better than a 500$ one ? 😉

Some "cult lenses" barrel just as much, and nobody ever talks about it, like the 50/1.4 pre-asph Lux, the Nikkor 35/1.8, the 35/2 UC Hex, and, go figure, the 35/1.2 Nokton. BTW, the newly released 35/1.4 Lux asph also has 2% barrel distortion ....

As much as I like my M2, the M6's on-board meter is very useful for fast people shooting in the dark.

 

[cnphoto]

I would love. 35mm 'lux but a lot of that would probably be down to the Leica name on the lens barrel tbh...

CV 35mm F1.4 is probably the smarter option for me. I can always indulge in a Leica 'lux later when $$$ permit. At the moment I can't afford to spend more than the money I have and would be looking to have this setup in time to shoot some shows in a fortnight or so.

I've been offered a like new M6 locally for about USD1,300 so would have enough for the CV lens and vented hood. But, at the same time I could get an M4-P for about USD800ish+ after postage (or an M2 or about same cost).

If I go SC I have been offered 2 secondhand at a lower price again.

A virtually BNIB M6 would be a nice thing, no doubt. The M4-P I did have was in much nicer condition than the ones currently available now too (lesson learnt there).

 

[ferider]

I have M2, M4-P and M6 and love all three.

But as I said, internal meter is very helpful for available light people photos.

US 1300 is a bit steep though, unless it's chrome or TTL.

 

[furcafe]

I'm a collector as well as a shooter, but I concur w/this. Start off by thinking about the focal lengths & speeds you need & build from there, e.g., if you don't see yourself using the 35mm much, then definitely keep the M3, sell the Summaron, & get a fast 35 (+ accessory finder), 50, & maybe a 85 or 90. My advice re: shooting shows, get the fastest, most flare-resistant glass you can afford.

You say you like your M3, (I love mine!) and that you'd REALLY like a 35 'Lux. Buy the lens you really want ('lux) keep the M3 and lenses and get a really good 35 Accessory viewfinder for it. I have a CV metal 35mm finder and it's great, even though it distorts more than my lens does. If you're buying the other body just for a spare body go for a good used Bessa. Put your money in FRONT of the camera where it counts in image quality!
Vic

 

[hendriphile]

You say you like your M3, (I love mine!) and that you'd REALLY like a 35 'Lux. Buy the lens you really want ('lux) keep the M3 and lenses and get a really good 35 Accessory viewfinder for it. I have a CV metal 35mm finder and it's great, even though it distorts more than my lens does. If you're buying the other body just for a spare body go for a good used Bessa. Put your money in FRONT of the camera where it counts in image quality!
Vic

I was going to write something until I saw this post - which sums up what I was about to write!

I'd just add that before navigating away from your M3, (which I assume is in robust condition), test-drive the other M-flavors with a view to the ergonomics. You may find the flashing LED’s distracting in a dark environment if you’re not used to them; and the diminished magnification may be an issue (I’d assume that shooting in the dark, you can use all the finder magnification you can get).

.

 

[Namwen]

This is sort of off topic but pertaining to the CV 35 1.4 . I just bought an m2 and have decided this is the lens I want to buy. Does anyone know where I can find a nice used one? I've searched just about everywhere and apparently they're pretty difficult to find.

 

[cnphoto]

I've shot bands semi regularly for about 7 years now, 35mm and 50mm are my most usd FL's. Sometimes 85/90.

With a DSLR F2-F2.8 was not a problem, ever, and I've used F2 fine with an RF as well but F1.4 would be better.

The M3 will have a Nokton F1.1 in July (tax time). So I know I want a fast 35, I think an M6 will probably be the way I go. CV 35mm F1.4 MC looks like my best option, $$$ wise.

 

[cnphoto]

This is sort of off topic but pertaining to the CV 35 1.4 . I just bought an m2 and have decided this is the lens I want to buy. Does anyone know where I can find a nice used one? I've searched just about everywhere and apparently they're pretty difficult to find.

User dfoo is selling a 35mm F1.4 SC for a good price.

 

[cnphoto]

+1. I would choice an 35/1.4 Summilux-M pre-ASPH and either an M4-P (preferred) 🙂

This is what I'm going to do. I have an opportunity to pick up a Summilux pre v2 and M4-P (actually my old M4-P too, that I traded for a 4x5 setup a while ago).

 

[setyotomo]

+1 on CV 35/1.4 (35 1.2 to big for me too).. i'm looking for SC version also, and for the body, m6 if you need the meter, otherwise get an M2 and lux....

it's simple, if you ended up didnt like your choice, you can always sell a used leicas in reasonable price 🙂

 

[Keith]

Getting completely off track a Zeiss Ikon would do the job better than any of the afore mentioned cameras IMO ... but yes I know, it's not a Leica! 😀