tiberno
Member
Hello everyone!
I've been trying some darkroom work for the first time and I have some questions about paper developers.
First of all, it seems that the film developer is given a lot of importance as it will define what your pictures will be like. How about paper developers? Are they all the same? What are the differences they can produce in a print?
For my first prints I had 1L of Ilford Multigrade and, for what I read it should be used only once for every 60ml for 540ml of water. But I decided to try to print more than one in the same solution and I found I could print maybe 3 pictures. Do you guys reuse your developer? What would you recommend bearing economy in mind?
Finally, another question, some of the prints got some yellowing at the borders. Is that the result of reusing the developer?
Sorry for the hole bunch of questions and thanks for your help!
I've been trying some darkroom work for the first time and I have some questions about paper developers.
First of all, it seems that the film developer is given a lot of importance as it will define what your pictures will be like. How about paper developers? Are they all the same? What are the differences they can produce in a print?
For my first prints I had 1L of Ilford Multigrade and, for what I read it should be used only once for every 60ml for 540ml of water. But I decided to try to print more than one in the same solution and I found I could print maybe 3 pictures. Do you guys reuse your developer? What would you recommend bearing economy in mind?
Finally, another question, some of the prints got some yellowing at the borders. Is that the result of reusing the developer?
Sorry for the hole bunch of questions and thanks for your help!
tj01
Well-known
Yellowing at the borders mean not enough fix. Your fixer is getting exhausted.
The multigrade developer usually mixes 1 to 9 parts water. I usually use it for every session, with an average 20-30 prints. Fixer also gets discarded after a session.
The multigrade developer usually mixes 1 to 9 parts water. I usually use it for every session, with an average 20-30 prints. Fixer also gets discarded after a session.
tiberno
Member
You mean that one solution is enough for 20-30 prints, or the whole bottle?
payasam
a.k.a. Mukul Dube
Each mix of developer can be used for several prints: one session, with 20 to 30 prints, as tj01 said. It's obvious that large and very large prints will exhaust the developer more quickly.
dfoo
Well-known
You can print lots of prints in the same developer. Keep an eye out for when the print starts to appear. When that time increases dramatically, then dump the developer. I always develop using Dektol 1+2 for 2 minutes at ~20C. 2L of Dektol mixed 1+2 will develop some 40 8x10's (this is from Kodak's stats which is a gallon 1+2 will developed 96 8x10's). 2L of fix mixed 1+3 will fix 80 8x10's.
Obviously, I reuse both the dev and the fix for multiple sessions.
Obviously, I reuse both the dev and the fix for multiple sessions.
tiberno
Member
Wow... I'm glad I asked this here! I can't believe I almost trow away a whole bottle of developer! :bang: lol
Thanks for the info everyone!
Thanks for the info everyone!
tj01
Well-known
Just yesterday, I printed 80 RC prints of 8X10 in one session. Used Ilford Multigrade mixed 1 part developer 9 parts water to make just over 1 litre. While I think the Ilford factsheet/datasheet will have the recommended volume vs print area, I have a feeling 80 is about as much you can print before you mix a new solution fresh.
There's nothing like using fresh developer and fixer. Hardly worth recycling them, in my humble opinion.
There's nothing like using fresh developer and fixer. Hardly worth recycling them, in my humble opinion.
sepiareverb
genius and moron
Effect of developer choice on the print?
1) dilution effects contrast- not such a big deal in these days when most everyone uses VC papers.
2) print color (warmth to coolness) is effected by developer choice- dependent on paper type.
3) when toning prints developer choice and dilution effect the final color even if the toner is exactly the same. I've found the most variability in print color with the sepia and brown/polysulfide toners.
Best print developer? Moersch ECO 4812
1) dilution effects contrast- not such a big deal in these days when most everyone uses VC papers.
2) print color (warmth to coolness) is effected by developer choice- dependent on paper type.
3) when toning prints developer choice and dilution effect the final color even if the toner is exactly the same. I've found the most variability in print color with the sepia and brown/polysulfide toners.
Best print developer? Moersch ECO 4812
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palec
Well-known
I was looking for such developer for a long time, thank you for recommendation. According to description it has excellent keeping properties. I don't print often and I want to reuse chemistry, but most developer's working solution lasts 24 hours. Now I plan to try Edwal LPD (which is powder in can) and also this new one. Have you used LPD before?
dfoo
Well-known
Dektol can certainly go bad, but its more about exposure to the air than the amount of time since mixed. I've reused Dektol dev for a month, with several short printing sessions.
Once it turns a deep brown color (the color of strong tea) then its probably not much good. The good news about paper dev is that it is obvious; the print won't develop at all.
Steve_F
Well-known
Congrats on the first prints. I use Tetenal Eukobrom for my FB prints. Neutral with rich blacks and clean whites and full tonal range. As a rule I use the mixed solution for a session then pour it away and start fresh the next time.
Steve.
Steve.
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Rob-F
Likes Leicas
I use LPD, a liquid concentrate. It produces beautiful tones on Ilford Multigrade. It also lasts a long time. It's hard to wear it out!
Hypo (fixer) should be tested after every 10 or 20 prints with Hypo Check. When a drop of Hypo Check leaves a white precipitate in a small sample of the hypo, I throw out the hypo and replace it with fresh solution. Then I re-fix all the prints in the water bath for 30 seconds to a minute, and re-wash. I also use a hypo eliminator to make sure the wash is thorough enough. After a double-fix and thorough wash, they are archival!
Hypo (fixer) should be tested after every 10 or 20 prints with Hypo Check. When a drop of Hypo Check leaves a white precipitate in a small sample of the hypo, I throw out the hypo and replace it with fresh solution. Then I re-fix all the prints in the water bath for 30 seconds to a minute, and re-wash. I also use a hypo eliminator to make sure the wash is thorough enough. After a double-fix and thorough wash, they are archival!
dfoo
Well-known
Is this for fiber or RC? RC isn't nearly as demanding with respect to fix/wash and the developer for that matter as fiber
sepiareverb
genius and moron
I've not used LPD, but the Moersch ECO 4812 actually does last at working strength. I had a really hard time beleiving it, but comes out of the jug even after the weekend good as fresh. Amazing.
I have a partially full gallon jug of 1:14 I mixed with tap water that has been in the darkroom for about three weeks, I'm curious to see how that has held up.
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oftheherd
Veteran
You might want to look at this site http://www.adorama.com/catalog.tpl?...2=Photo Chemicals&cat3=B & W Paper Developers for more info on what to expect from different paper developers.
Also if you look at Mr. Hicks' site at http://www.rogerandfrances.com/index.html for other information. I didn't check but I am sure he will have some information on it.
Also if you look at Mr. Hicks' site at http://www.rogerandfrances.com/index.html for other information. I didn't check but I am sure he will have some information on it.