How do you use TMAX RS?

[dyao]

I've downloaded the J-86 datasheet which is rather unhelpful. There are no instructions on the box/bottle other than how to mix it, and even that is confusing. How do you make the stock solution, and then how much do you dilute that to get the working solution?

I've found some info on other sites where people add the solution B to solution A, and then dilute that 1:9 for working solution. Other people recommend diluting solution A, diluting solution B, and then adding solution B to solution A after developing.

Would appreciate it if somebody could explain this to me as if I'm a 5 year old. Thanks!

 

[Morca007]

I'm currently using it this way:
Both A and B in the same gallon container, no dilution, as a one-shot, using the times from the datasheet. This significantly reduces the shelf life of the developer, but I'm not planning on having it around long.

I know that in the proper usage you are supposed to mix the two solutions to working strength separately (two bottles of 64oz of chemistry each). I don't know how the replenisher aspect comes into play, only that you use an equal amount of each and mix them just before developing.

 

[sevo]

I know that in the proper usage you are supposed to mix the two solutions to working strength separately (two bottles of 64oz of chemistry each).

Sure? As far as I remember it was simply A first into a gallon to complete solution, then B.

I don't know how the replenisher aspect comes into play, only that you use an equal amount of each and mix them just before developing.

No, it is a high yield large tank developer that works as its own replenisher - replenishment is by adding a defined amount of working solution for each film developed, discarding an eventual overflow.

 

[drew.saunders]

Here's an article from 1987 on TMax RS developer that might help:
http://www.largeformatphotography.info/articles/sexton-tmax.html

This may be useful too:
http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?t=28929

I had notes on my bottles when I used it, but I followed some of the instructions in the thread listed above.

 

[Morca007]

It's entirely likely that I'm wrong on all points, shouldn't have posted anything beyond what I'm currently doing. 😛

 

[dyao]

I read the article from the LFP forum - but as I'm planning on pushing Tri-X & Delta 3200 with it, it wasn't too helpful in that regard!

So far these seem to be the methods recommended:

Method 1:
Combine part B with part A in the part A bottle. Use this solution in a 1:9 dilution according to the development times in the J-86 datasheet. Use as a one-shot.

Method 2:
Combine part B with part A and water to make 1 gallon of stock solution. Split the gallon into two 64 ounce bottles. Use solution from bottle A, undiluted, as your working solution according to the times in the J-86 datasheet. Pour the solution back into bottle A. After each session, add 1.5 ounces from bottle B per roll developed to replenish the bottle A solution. Discard the overfill as necessary.

Method 3 (the one I'm unclear on)
Dilute part A in a separate bottle. Dilute part B in a separate bottle. Mix solution from part A and part B just before diluting. But how do you know how much to dilute?

Thanks for the help!

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

Tmax RS is made for large tanks in labs where developer will be replenished. If you're doing small tank developing of personal film, you'll be better off using the regular Tmax Developer. The only thing Tmax RS is really better for with home use is for sheet film, since for some reason the regular version of Tmax Developer causes dichroic fog on sheet films.

 

[dyao]

Regular TMax costs only a little less than TMax RS over here, and it runs out pretty quick if you use it at 1:4 dilution. I'm interested in TMax RS because it's more economical. DD-X costs 3 times as much as TMax/TMax RS over here, so that's not an option. No XTOL either.

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

Regular TMax costs only a little less than TMax RS over here, and it runs out pretty quick if you use it at 1:4 dilution. I'm interested in TMax RS because it's more economical. DD-X costs 3 times as much as TMax/TMax RS over here, so that's not an option. No XTOL either.

Regular Tmax can be diluted 1+7 and 1+9 also and gives gorgeous results that way. Its how I use it for Tmax 400 and Tri-X. I have tested 1+7 times for Tri-X and Kodak publishes both 1+7 and 1+9 times for Tmax 100 and 400.

 

[dyao]

Chris, do you use TMax to push Tri-X?

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

Chris, do you use TMax to push Tri-X?

I've never tried it. I usually use Tmax 3200 at EI 1600 in Tmax Developer when i need film faster than 400. I did push some Tmax 400 last year when I didn't have any 3200 left and it came out very good. I used Kodak's recommended times at the 1+4 dilution since I didn't have time to test for the higher dilutions before shooting the roll. Tmax Developer would probably be fine for pushed tri-x. I'd just try Kodak's recommended times for Tri-X, which is 8.75 minutes at 68 degrees (20C) with the 1+4 dilution and EI-1600.

Here is Tmax 400 pushed to 1600 in Tmax Developer:

 

[dyao]

I just noticed that the maximum shelf life of working strength TMax solution is 6 months - only 2 months for a half filled bottle. Guess I'll be using it one-shot then

 

[pepeguitarra]

Interesting thread. Just saving it.