MCTuomey
Veteran
DN, this is an embarrassment of Sonnar riches ...
And I would pay to know Tim Barker's B&W conversion workflow, btw.
And I would pay to know Tim Barker's B&W conversion workflow, btw.
50 mm Sonnar "characteristics"
- Thread starter sparrow6224
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sparrow6224
Well-known
MCT -- I'm betting Silverlight. Or whatever that program's called. Silverfish? Silverflash? Hi ho, Silver? But the look really is exceptional.
Strangeluv
Christer Johansen
MCTuomey
Veteran
Tim was kind enough to share that, yes, he uses Silver Efex Pro. Or, as I prefer, Silver E-fish Pro 😉
ampguy
Veteran
NEX-5, J3, 1.5, 1/40th, ISO 800:
elmer3.5
Well-known
ZM sonnar v/s Uncoated 38 sonnar
ZM sonnar v/s Uncoated 38 sonnar
Hi, a few days ago i did this comparison between my two sonnars, perhaps you´ll find it interesting.
bye!
ZM sonnar v/s Uncoated 38 sonnar
Hi, a few days ago i did this comparison between my two sonnars, perhaps you´ll find it interesting.
bye!
raid
Dad Photographer
The ZM image appears to be sharper looking. More contrast?
elmer3.5
Well-known
Anader uan
Anader uan
Hi, another one, a crop this time. The 1938 sonnar has less contrast and suffers a lot from flare.
Crop.
Using a sun shade it helps a lot.
This old sonnar is optimaized at 2.8, son for getting precise focus at 1.5 i have to uncrew the rear element about 80 degrees, only about a quarter of a turn =)
Bye!
Anader uan
Hi, another one, a crop this time. The 1938 sonnar has less contrast and suffers a lot from flare.
Crop.
Using a sun shade it helps a lot.
This old sonnar is optimaized at 2.8, son for getting precise focus at 1.5 i have to uncrew the rear element about 80 degrees, only about a quarter of a turn =)
Bye!
raid
Dad Photographer
I always use a lens hood with the lenses. Why not.
F
former member
Guest
This uncoated 1937 CZJ 5cm F1.5 Sonnar is optimized for F2. At F1.5, it "ever-so-slightly" front-focuses. At F4, the backward shift is not so bad. My 1939 Sonnar "T" is optimized for F1.5.
Raid's Sonnar is optimized for F1.5.
Here my uncoated 1937 Sonnar is used wide-open, at F1.5.
Did you remount the Sonnar to Leica Mount, or use with an adapter?
Raid's Sonnar is optimized for F1.5.
Here my uncoated 1937 Sonnar is used wide-open, at F1.5.
Did you remount the Sonnar to Leica Mount, or use with an adapter?
Last edited by a moderator:
F
former member
Guest
This is with the 1939 Sonnar "T", optimized for F1.5, in a J-3 mount modified to focus to 0.8m.
At 4m or so, stopping down to F4 is required, or focus past the subject. I marked a new spot for "Infinity Focus" on the distance scale, which is a few degree turn past the old infinity mark of the Jupiter.
Wide-Open, straight into the Sun. The "T" coating on the 1939 lens makes a big difference for flare control.
At 4m or so, stopping down to F4 is required, or focus past the subject. I marked a new spot for "Infinity Focus" on the distance scale, which is a few degree turn past the old infinity mark of the Jupiter.
Wide-Open, straight into the Sun. The "T" coating on the 1939 lens makes a big difference for flare control.
Last edited by a moderator:
elmer3.5
Well-known
This uncoated 1937 CZJ 5cm F1.5 Sonnar is optimized for F2. At F1.5, it "ever-so-slightly" front-focuses. At F4, the backward shift is not so bad. My 1939 Sonnar "T" is optimized for F1.5.
Raid's Sonnar is optimized for F1.5.
Here my uncoated 1937 Sonnar is used wide-open, at F1.5.
Did you remount the Sonnar to Leica Mount, or use with an adapter?
Hi Brian Beautiful shots, i purchsed the amedeo m39 adapter, i was going to set it on a industar m39 mount but prefered to keep the contax and maintain the beaut of the original mount.
Anyway i´m getting some trouble with the adapter set on my III-G because it back focuses too much, and setting the lens to infinity gets hard, doesn´t feel comfortable.
I think i´ll have to do something on the adapter. I´m a little lazy now, i need some vacations, here we are in summertime!
Raid, i don´t like using hoods, they do help thou, a lot 🙂
Are there any filters that help the uncoated lenses????? They should invent some if not.
Bye
F
former member
Guest
If the adapter back-focuses, and you do not want to adjust the main shim of the lens: the alternative is to build up the cam on the adapter. I've done this in the past using copper tape, about 0.07mm per layer.
