DR, in the corners, stopped down.

sanmich

sanmich

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Hi all

I have a question regarding the Summicron DR performance:

I know that wide open, it excels in the center with a drop in resolution in the corners. I would like to ask if stopping it down brings the corners to the center IQ or if they are always showing a lower resolution.

Thanks!
 
It depends on how far you stop down. Going down to f/11 or f/16 will improve the corners but reduce central sharpness from diffraction so both will be about the same. Between f/4 and f/8, the center is at peak performance and the corners definitely improve but not equal to the center although the difference is small enough in general photographic subjects or landscapes as to also appear very sharp.
 
When I want to get all the gusto, I shoot at 5.6 and hope there is enough DOF. f/8 works too.

EDIT ps: Personally, I think the DR makes the world look nicer than the uber critically painfully sharp and contrasty modern lenses. Again, to my eyes and my personal opinion. YMMV.
 
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Erwin Puts has a pretty comprehensive debunking of the theory that a lens can have high resolution but low contrast. Personally I'm not sure; video lenses have been designed for low resolution (because of the CCD pitch) but high contrast for many years. I wonder how long it will be before Leica start building proper digital lenses designed around the sensor pitch, and also moving the rear of the lens outwards? They could revive the R-designs for the latter.

Erwin also ignores veiling flare, which is a "feature" of many old lenses like the Summar; the Summar is very sharp and contrasty if you give it flat lighting, but it can't resolve a barn door at ten paces if the sun's behind the barn, because everything becomes a grey wash.
 
Thanks gentlemen!
I have more modern f/2 50mm lenses (cron and Hex) but my idea was to use it as a landscape/ outdoor lens with Delta 100, and maybe an orange filter (still need to buy one).
We are blessed (cursed?) with a LOT of sun, so a gentler contrast lens is not a problem.
From your answers it looks like a good use of the lens..
 
The DR, unlike modern Konica lenses, flares like a witch. Keep the sun at your back when possible. Worst case is the sun just out of the frame. If the viewfinder shows flare, so will the lens.
 
The DR lens is a fantastic 50 for basically everything... Portraiture, semi-macro shots, landscape... etc. I've never shot a landscape shot wide open, so corner sharpness has never been an issue I consider. I figure I will be shooting at 5.6 or more, and by then the lack of corner sharpness will never distract my eye from the photo.

From my point of view, stopped down I doubt you will ever notice it with out a loop, and no one will be looking at your pictures with a magnifying loop....
 
venchka said:
The DR, unlike modern Konica lenses, flares like a witch. Keep the sun at your back when possible. Worst case is the sun just out of the frame. If the viewfinder shows flare, so will the lens.
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Thanks for the tip Wayne.

Just out of the frame... Is the hood helping? (the vented original one)
 
Actually mine only flares under extreme conditions. But then, I cleaned it. These lenses are very prone to haze.

I use a 12585 hood, Michael.
 
ferider said:
Actually mine only flares under extreme conditions. But then, I cleaned it. These lenses are very prone to haze.

I use a 12585 hood, Michael.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the insights, Roland

I just inspected mine, and it has a hint of haze.
I think I'll send it for a cleaning.
Any advice on a good place with decent prices and turnaround?
 
sanmich said:
Thanks for the insights, Roland

I just inspected mine, and it has a hint of haze.
I think I'll send it for a cleaning.
Any advice on a good place with decent prices and turnaround?
Click to expand...

I've just had a rigid cleaned and the front element recoated by John at Focal Point. Have had other work done him incl. cla on a DR - highly recommended
 
sanmich said:
Thanks for the insights, Roland

I just inspected mine, and it has a hint of haze.
I think I'll send it for a cleaning.
Any advice on a good place with decent prices and turnaround?
Click to expand...

The usual suspects, Michael. Don, Sherry, Steve, ...

Note that the surfaces in front and behind the aperture (it's those that haze up most) are really easy to get to: the front half of the optical block just unscrews. All you need is a soft cloth to clean those surfaces yourself (be gentle).

Roland.
 
venchka said:
The DR, unlike modern Konica lenses, flares like a witch. Keep the sun at your back when possible. Worst case is the sun just out of the frame. If the viewfinder shows flare, so will the lens.
Click to expand...

Like another gentleman said, this seems odd. When I started using my DR I was very impressed with its resistance to flare.
 
ferider said:
The usual suspects, Michael. Don, Sherry, Steve, ...

Note that the surfaces in front and behind the aperture (it's those that haze up most) are really easy to get to: the front half of the optical block just unscrews. All you need is a soft cloth to clean those surfaces yourself (be gentle).

Roland.
Click to expand...

I just sent a mail to Sherry. Don is excellent but too slow for that kind of standard job. Who is Steve?

[edit]: got it...
http://www.stevecamera.com/


How would you unscrew the front element?
Using a spanner on the front lens ring?

Thanks!
 
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This is from the M2 service manual that you can find on the web, Michael (leica_m2_service.pdf). (1) and (2) are the lens cap and liner, (3) holds the four elements in front of the aperture and simply unscrews.

Roland.
 
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ferider said:
This is from the M2 service manual that you can find on the web, Michael (leica_m2_service.pdf). (1) and (2) are the lens cap and liner, (3) holds the four elements in front of the aperture and simply unscrews.

Roland.
Click to expand...

Roland

Many thanks.🙂
I see what you mean on the diagram, but can't get it to unscrew.
I think I'll leave it to a pro before I do some harm...
The lens is reasonably clear, and it would be a pity to ruin it.

Best
 
Perhaps I've used mine in "extreme cases". Like with the sun between 10 & 2 (sun's position on the clock face, not time of day) pointing at the lens and just outside the frame coverage. Does that make sense? With the proper vented hood. The lens is pristine. The lens flared. My 2003 Zeiss 80mm/2.8 Planar does the same thing. Konica 28, 35 & 50 not so much.
 
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