A Cold Weather Rangefinder? (film)

dogbunny

dogbunny

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I was walking around my town today and it looks like winter is setting in. The temperature was about -15 C. My trusty little Hexar stopped working, and the LCD was just blinking dashes. After I got home I thawed it out and it worked fine.

I know it is going to get a lot colder here. We are pretty far north, near geographic Siberia, but I'm really set on photographing what might be my only Siberian winter.

I have been thinking mechanical is the way to go, based on what I've read here, but I'm not sure.

So..what are my best options for cold weather film gear? I really prefer rangefinders, but I'm more interested in what would be the best tool for the job. I've considered a Zeiss Ikon. I'm not opposed to buying Leica, but I would rather invest in lenses than expensive bodies--based on my own limitations, of course. :)

Thanks,

DB
 
I had similar experiences with Hexar and Canon P at the Hokkaido Snow Festival. Really, tucking into your clothing may be the best way....
 
When I lived in Sapporo (for more than 7 years) with cold winters and lots of snow, all M Leicas that I had worked without any problem at temperatures down to -20 C. However, I managed once to tear the film leader while rewinding the film to fast in my M6 under these conditions.
 
dogbunny said:
I was walking around my town today and it looks like winter is setting in. The temperature was about -15 C. My trusty little Hexar stopped working, and the LCD was just blinking dashes. After I got home I thawed it out and it worked fine.

I know it is going to get a lot colder here. We are pretty far north, near geographic Siberia, but I'm really set on photographing what might be my only Siberian winter.

I have been thinking mechanical is the way to go, based on what I've read here, but I'm not sure.

So..what are my best options for cold weather film gear? I really prefer rangefinders, but I'm more interested in what would be the best tool for the job. I've considered a Zeiss Ikon. I'm not opposed to buying Leica, but I would rather invest in lenses than expensive bodies--based on my own limitations, of course. :)

Thanks,

DB
Click to expand...

The camera was probably fine, the weak link in modern cameras is often the battery, which can stop working if it gets cold enough. As flip recommended, try keeping your camera inside your coat.
 
Thanks for the responses. I did keep my camera in my down jacket pocket most of the time. I have been mostly just setting it to the hyperfocal distance and just taking it out when I shoot and then returning it to my pocket. The batteries are new. I shot the camera a couple of times once I got back to the apartment without issue.

Cheers,

DB
 
Flip, that comment about the Canon P caught my eye. Bad lubrication? Might a Canon III or a Canon IIs2 fare better in the cold? And one more thing: How cold was it?
 
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old lube gets even more sticky - and can even freeze. 't'is a lube problem, not a mechanical problem.
bolt-action rifles, for example, if not properly cleaned and very lightly re-lubed with cold-proof lube or no grease at all, can freeze up ...
 
There's a bloke over on the LUF who lives in Greenland and he uses an MP with no problems. Any well maintained mechanical M should be just fine.
 
I have used a Leica IIIc under similar temperature conditions to photograph ice racing. It had been CLA'd by DAG and I kept it under my parka taking it out only to shoot. It worked fine. I have also used a Nikon FM2n at those temperatures in similar fashion with no problems and that camera has never had a CLA to my knowledge. For metering I used a Sekonic 398, no battery needed. For your conditions a properly clean and lubed mechanical camera may be the most hassle free solution.

Some other precautions are good too. Wind the film on slowly and rewind slowly as the film can get brittle when cold and break. When it is cold and dry film can also show static electricity discharge marks from winding on and rewinding too fast. I have never encountered that though. As always let the camera and film warm to room temperature in the camera bag before exposing it to warm humid inside air to avoid condensation problems.

Bob
 
Last winter, I was in Canada and spent a few afternoons walking along the shores of Lake Ontario. It was COLD and every time I gave out before the cameras did -an Epson r-d1s and a Canon 5dmkii.
 
You could check out a Mamiya 7 if you're looking for an excuse to go medium format as well – the wind-on is very smooth and gentle, plus no rewinding because it's shooting 120. It also has the optional cold weather battery pack where you keep the battery in your winter coat pocket, and a cable travels from the battery into the camera.

I've used the Mamiya 7 w/ 43mm lens in roughly 5 degrees Fahrenheit photographing breaking waves at Lake Michigan in January, and had good luck as far as the camera functioning. Not sure about the colder areas of the work, though.
 
I live in Norway, in southern parts, so extreme cold (below -25C) is rare, but I do know cold - as do my cameras. I can only second what´s been said about mechanical, well-lubed cameras. They tend to work under most conditions. Digitals get battery problems easily. The M8 I had died very quickly on ski-trips in temperatures below -10C, even when kept inside the anorak. M4s and M2 have worked like a charm.
 
As mentioned before, its all about the lube.

I use Tetra Gun Lube in very small amounts on my Agfa Isolette Folder and my Minolta X-370 and both have been used well below freezing.

Obviously they were thoroughly Cleaned from all old grease before that.
http://www.amazon.com/Tetra-TETRA-GUN-GREASE-1OZ/dp/B0014VVNZU

A little goes a long way!

The Isolette which had the typical old Agfa grease issues (completely frozen lens) is now so smooth and quiet in all ways you have to struggle to hear the shutter.

Also, FWIW, I use the same lube on my modest Firearms collection.
 
My M5 has always held up ok at temperatures around or below 0° F (about -18° C), though the meter gets flaky when its that cold. I'm sure any M would do fine.
 
It may help to buy a case for the camera. The leather might provide just enough insulation to prevent, or at least slow down, the battery drain due to the cold.

Best regards,

Bob
 
Never had any problem with a Barnack, either. RFs are my go-to cameras when it's below freezing or for simply playing in the snow. Don't put your camera too close to your body - it's really quite warm and damp there. If the camera is cold, moisture will condense, then freeze when brought back into the cold... Doesn't matter if the battery is new - they don't like cold. Lithium is the best in this regards but they all have issues. Put the camera in a bag (a ziploc works great) prior to bringing it indoors. Let it warm for 40 minutes or more before opening it. You can use a similar process for bringing a camera outside from an air-conditioned space into warm, humid outdoors.

Yes - mechanical is probably the way to go a those temps.
 
Film can also be a limiting factor- I've ripped film twice in very cold weather. Be gentle winding on. Better to keep the camera under your coat and close to your body to give it some warmth.

I should add the film I was using was Foma, and me and Foma don't seem to get along.:eek:
 
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Where I spend my winters is typically around 0 to 20 degrees F ( about -17 to -6 C, I think?) with occasional cold spells of much colder temps--we got to minus 25 F one day last winter--and the few problems I've ever had have been battery related more than anything else.
The single mechanical problem I had was with my '37 9cm Elmar--it needed a re-lube and last winter the one time I tried to use it, the focusing was stiff enough in the cold that the lens would unscrew from the body rather than focus. I have since had this lens CLA-ed and I expect it to be fine this winter.
I have mostly used (and will use this winter) the Bessa R and R2a, sometimes my FSU cameras, and very occasionally a Pentax UC-1.
The digital camera I had last winter was just about useless. Not because of the temp. but because I couldn't see the screen on it(no VF on that camera) well enough to compose.
So, I have to echo what others have already said: a well sorted mechanical camera is probably your best choice.
All that said, I will add that my biggest concern with cold weather shooting is not the cold but the return to warmth: condensation is NOT your friend!
I don't use a camera bag so what I do is to have a large ziplok bag with me that, just before I go back inside, I put the camera into. This keeps the condensation on the outside of the ziplok instead of on the camera/lens.
The only other cold weather caveat I will recommend is to be very sure of your footing; I've had to have a camera RF realigned because I was paying more attention to the viewfinder than where I was stepping, slipped and smacked the camera hard enough into my face when I fell that it misaligned the RF.
Rob
 
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