zzpza
Member
<drool>! 😀
I would love a Polaroid I could manually set the exposure on, but they are all too expensive 🙁
Polaroid 450 with all the bits!
- Thread starter ped
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<drool>! 😀
I would love a Polaroid I could manually set the exposure on, but they are all too expensive 🙁
ped
Small brown dog
Very nice. Do you use a normal meter?
shadowfox
Darkroom printing lives
Trust me, I know.
Waited for a long time till I find this one with the price I can justify, pristine with cover, close-up adapter. They go nuts with the price nowadays on ebay.
It's a big hit in parties because people nowadays don't expect to see a nice B&W prints coming out of an old camera like this.
Sample prints that I took at my friends' Silver Anniversary celebration.
shadowfox
Darkroom printing lives
ped
Small brown dog
Interesting. How do you equate the f stops on a standard meter (f2-22) for the lens on the Polaroid?
I realy like the 3000 speed film. It has superb shades and has something I haven't been able to get from 35mm or digital. And you're right, nothing beats pulling a print out of the camera.
Another quick question - I'm told the fuji packs 'self terminate' after 30 seconds, i.e stop developing, so you can peel the shots later without risking a dodgy print. Is this true? What do you other Polaroid shooters do if you are taking a bunch of photos? print, peel then keep in a bag or print and peel a bunch later?
ped
I realy like the 3000 speed film. It has superb shades and has something I haven't been able to get from 35mm or digital. And you're right, nothing beats pulling a print out of the camera.
Another quick question - I'm told the fuji packs 'self terminate' after 30 seconds, i.e stop developing, so you can peel the shots later without risking a dodgy print. Is this true? What do you other Polaroid shooters do if you are taking a bunch of photos? print, peel then keep in a bag or print and peel a bunch later?
ped
Robert Lai
Well-known
Hi Ped,
For the manual cameras such as the 180 or 195, the exposure with a meter is just as with any other manual camera. I have a Gossen Lunasix F with EV values, so setting exposure with my 180 is very simple. With the 180, the f/stops range from f/4.5 to a pinhole f/90!
I have a 250 also, and that has f/8.8 as the wide open exposure. I'm not sure what the other aperture is (you get to pick two). When using my Metz 450 flash on "auto" mode, I usually set it to f/8, and then set the ISO to about 64 to compensate (with Fuji 100 films).
At the current time, I peel apart the individual images one at a time. I still time development with a timer. Polaroid makes a nice mechanical one that clips to the camera strap (#128), but any small kitchen timer will do.
For the manual cameras such as the 180 or 195, the exposure with a meter is just as with any other manual camera. I have a Gossen Lunasix F with EV values, so setting exposure with my 180 is very simple. With the 180, the f/stops range from f/4.5 to a pinhole f/90!
I have a 250 also, and that has f/8.8 as the wide open exposure. I'm not sure what the other aperture is (you get to pick two). When using my Metz 450 flash on "auto" mode, I usually set it to f/8, and then set the ISO to about 64 to compensate (with Fuji 100 films).
At the current time, I peel apart the individual images one at a time. I still time development with a timer. Polaroid makes a nice mechanical one that clips to the camera strap (#128), but any small kitchen timer will do.
mooge
Well-known
yeah I've heard about that "self termination" stuff as well but if that is the case then why does Fuji give us those temperature/time tables? there's also no mention of self-termination in the data sheets that Fuji have on their site (if I recall... maybe I'm wrong).
the cold clip is a pretty okay place to put a print (once it's dried a bit... and don't put a fresh print into a book, it'll stick to the paper!) but I'm also wondering how to deal with multiple photos or even where to put the negative if I want to keep it.
speaking of the cold clip, can I use that for shooting sub-zero? or just above zero? because otherwise I can't really shoot outside for another... four months?
(so 120 it is!)
zzpza
Member
On the manual models the camera is marked as expected with the normal shutter and aperture markings. On the automatic models it's not so clear. I assume the large marks are 1 stop increments, but they could be half stop.
Yep. I shoot a bunch and then find somewhere quiet (and not windy!) to sit down and peel the prints apart. I then let them dry for a few minutes otherwise they stick to each other. 🙁 A really good indicator I use is after you peel the print, it will start to curl slightly and then straighten out again as it dries. When it is flat it is dry.
Yep, I guarantee you it 100% self terminates. The chemical reaction still needs to happen and this is effected by the temperature of the print. The guide printed on the sleeve is the minimum development time. The longest I have waited to peel a print is about 15 minutes. I wouldn't wait much longer as the chemistry starts to dry on the print which leaves marks.
Just checked the datasheet and Fuji don't recommend longer than 8 minutes...
Hope that helps 🙂
ped
Small brown dog
Great, thanks chaps. That might make shooting a few shots in a row much easier.
celluloidprop
Well-known
The self-termination stuff is great info to have. I've got a couple of the el-cheapo Polaroid Pro-Packs with the big flashgun handle, they're fun to use if you don't mind popping the flash.
I think I may sell my Instax 500AF and step up to a better peel-apart Polaroid, I like them better than the integral film.
I think I may sell my Instax 500AF and step up to a better peel-apart Polaroid, I like them better than the integral film.
ped
Small brown dog
Happy Polaroid Xmas everyone!
zzpza
Member
Ha, cool dog! 😀
Because of this pic, I noticed all the dust in the lens, so took the 'lens board' apart and clean the lens. This web site shows how to take the camera apart, but I would offer a word of warning. The PCB for the electronics is a flexible one, with the wires coming from the battery soldered to a floating section of the PCB. I think I disturbed them when I took the camera apart (or they had a dry joint) as when I put it all back together the shutter no longer worked. I had to dig out the iron and rejuvenate a few of the connections. All appears fine now and I have a clean lens to boot.
Because of this pic, I noticed all the dust in the lens, so took the 'lens board' apart and clean the lens. This web site shows how to take the camera apart, but I would offer a word of warning. The PCB for the electronics is a flexible one, with the wires coming from the battery soldered to a floating section of the PCB. I think I disturbed them when I took the camera apart (or they had a dry joint) as when I put it all back together the shutter no longer worked. I had to dig out the iron and rejuvenate a few of the connections. All appears fine now and I have a clean lens to boot.
ped
Small brown dog
Ok I took the springs out and she's working brilliantly.
Took delivery of a box of film today. Here she is also with a box of flashcubes. I've attached the portrait kit and cloud filter. Oh and cable release.
Took delivery of a box of film today. Here she is also with a box of flashcubes. I've attached the portrait kit and cloud filter. Oh and cable release.
zzpza
Member
Nice 😎
zzpza
Member
Inspired by your kit photo, I had a look at a well known online auction website (I don't know this board's policy about linking to auctions) and someone is trying to sell what looks like an identical shutter release cable for £70/$110! 😱
I think I'll modify my camera to take 'normal' shutter release cables.
I guess this is a 'hipster' tax?
I think I'll modify my camera to take 'normal' shutter release cables.
I guess this is a 'hipster' tax?
ped
Small brown dog
Yeah I know I spent ages looking for one that wasn't a rip off... I found one bundled in with some other stuff in the end I think. You could fairly easily modify a cable to work though I think.
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