New Leica user here ^_^

[analogpics]

Hey everybody, i just recently picked up my first leica m camera. Went with the M6 TTL 0.85 and a 35mm summicron type 4. My previous rangefinders are a canonet QL17 and Mamiya 7 which i both love. Embarassed to say, i've been getting soft over the years and am getting used to only full manual metering all over again lol. Oh, and the dampening of the focus ring of the summicron (i bought it from a cam store that had it in its back inventory, so its still brand new from 1993 lol)...I know it helps for more precise focusing, but i must admit, at this point, i wish it had a bit of a shorter throw and a bit quicker to move. Part of me is still wondering if an M7/CLE/Bessa R3a would've been a better investment but i guess time will tell. Part of my reasoning in getting a leica M is that i wanted a no nonsense cam that i'd be able to use for years that i can always trust, even if batteries become scarce or the ones in the camera die (hence, going with the m6). I've been riding the aperture ring to get quicker exposures, but would prefer to be able to adjust the shutter speed quickly instead, but the shutter dial is a bit awkward for my fingers to move while my face is pressed up agains the back of the camera. All that said, i have to say, this is the most solid feeling camera that i own. I feel like i can drive nails into a wall with it 😀 and wow, its such a beauty! I hope i can get quick enough with it that it's at least almost as fast as my Mamiya 7. Next on my list is either a zeiss zm 50mm f2 planar or 50mm summicron!

 

[photo4ls]

analogpics,
Welcome to RRF and that is one good looking combo.
Nelson

 

[Clancycoop]

I would say that the best way to be quick at metering is to pre-meter, i.e., if you walk from sunlight to shadow, get in the habit of dialing in an approximate shutter speed with your finger (you should work on getting to the point that you don't really think about it) so that when you raise the camera to your eye you aren't wildly flicking your finger about searching for the correct exposure with both your shutter speed dial and aperture ring. Also remember that your meter is center-weighted and quite touchy, so don't get too concerned if you meter the part of the scene you want, compose, and see that the indicators are saying you are off--you know that you metered the part of the scene you meant to, and after composing it is likely that it might give you an arrow even though it WILL be a correct exposure.

I thought it seemed impossible, but after 1 1/2 years of using my M6, I am a human light meter. I will often start shooting and automatically set approximately the correct value before I even bring the camera to my eye. I believe that anyone can do this, as I am not particularly talented at using Sunny 16 or any other self-metering techniques. I have just shot with the camera a lot, tend to use the same 4 film stocks over and over, and can anticipate the conditions.

I would say that your choice of getting an M6 TTL was a good one, as the M6 classic's shutter speed dial can be quite hard to turn quickly with one finger (I have one of each). Also I find its turning direction more naturally ergonomic than the classic's method. My TTL turns easily, perhaps yours needs a little more use before turning easier?

 

[SolaresLarrave]

In my experience, rather than a 50 (check the framelines), a 90mm lens is the one that'll lend itself to seeing the world in a different way from that of a 35mm field-of-view. In other words, be ready to need a long lens. The difference between 35 and 50 isn't as significant as the range between 35 and 90. And a 90mm lens on an M6TTL is a joy to use. Or any long lens for that matter. My avatar was done with an M6TTL and an Elmarit 135 f2.8.

Congratulations on your purchase too! 🙂

 

[kshapero]

I would say that the best way to be quick at metering is to pre-meter, i.e., if you walk from sunlight to shadow, get in the habit of dialing in an approximate shutter speed with your finger (you should work on getting to the point that you don't really think about it) so that when you raise the camera to your eye you aren't wildly flicking your finger about searching for the correct exposure with both your shutter speed dial and aperture ring. Also remember that your meter is center-weighted and quite touchy, so don't get too concerned if you meter the part of the scene you want, compose, and see that the indicators are saying you are off--you know that you metered the part of the scene you meant to, and after composing it is likely that it might give you an arrow even though it WILL be a correct exposure.

I thought it seemed impossible, but after 1 1/2 years of using my M6, I am a human light meter. I will often start shooting and automatically set approximately the correct value before I even bring the camera to my eye. I believe that anyone can do this, as I am not particularly talented at using Sunny 16 or any other self-metering techniques. I have just shot with the camera a lot, tend to use the same 4 film stocks over and over, and can anticipate the conditions.

I would say that your choice of getting an M6 TTL was a good one, as the M6 classic's shutter speed dial can be quite hard to turn quickly with one finger (I have one of each). Also I find its turning direction more naturally ergonomic than the classic's method. My TTL turns easily, perhaps yours needs a little more use before turning easier?

ditto this

 

[Richard G]

Welcome and congratulations. Great combination. The compact v4 Summicron is great. The tab is a great help and just as you can preset exposure you can preset focus in good light, and you can feel focus without pursuing perfect rangefinder image coincidence at smaller apertures. What's with the tape on the baseplate?

 

[analogpics]

Thanks for the replies everybody 🙂 so glad to be using a compact 35mm rangefinder again. I THINK i'm starting to get used to the full manual metering and the slow, precise focus ring (or maybe i'm just starting to break it in).


Clancycoop: I think you're right, maybe if i just set it at around 60th or 125th...Wish i could find one of those rose on/off switches so i could just leave it there. I hope over time i'll start to be able to just tell what the rough exposure is before i even bring the camera to my eye (like yourself).
Yeah, i bought the TTL version for that exact reason hah.

SolaresLarrave: Interesting point, i was almost going to replace the 35mm with the 50... i just love that focal length. But a 35 and 90 probably makes more sense, though i like the idea of just owning one lens 😛

Richard G: Thanks Richard. Yeah, i'm digging the 35 so far, other than the really dampened focus ring. That finger tab is nice to be able to instantly tell where the focus is. Oh, the tape was placed on the baseplate because the clear sticker was coming off, and i took that shot within the two week period i had to return the camera.

 

[Richard G]

Look up the Zeiss M Planar and C Sonnar before passing over the 50. These are special lenses and cheaper than Leica. The only lens I cannot do without is the ZM C Sonnar.

 

[Haigh]

I go with those who have said you can pre meter and pre focus. I have done this many times with my M4. So, my my focus may not be perfect but I would rather that than miss the shot. You camera looks marvellous.

 

[analogpics]

Richard G: yeah, i was actually contemplating the planar as i heard the sonnar suffers from focus shift? What's been your experience? That'd be great if they can eventually fix that issue, but if they haven't done it yet, they probably never will lol. From what i read, if you send it in to them, then they can recalibrate it, but it'll only be optimized for 1.5, or 2.8. But yeah, i was thinking about the 50 planar...though there's part of me that may stick with the leica glass for now...we'll see!

Haigh: Yeah, i'm trying to teach myself to automatically do those things before i bring the camera to my eye, though its goin slow so far haha. Thank you, i'm prety proud of my beauty ^_^

 

[Lauffray]

Congrats on the Leica and welcome ! 🙂
I remember when I got my first Leica, aaah 😀

I do agree with you, sometimes I wish I could quickly adjust the shutter speed, I found the larger dial on the M6 TTL and the M7 to be slightly stiffer to manipulate than the smaller one on my M4. But you'll get used to it

 

[Damaso]

Welcome! Great camera (I have the same one) looks like you've got good taste!

 

[claacct]

That is good to hear, but on a lighter note: Have you watched the first episode of The Sopranos where Tony says to his shrink, "I came too late for that, I know. But lately I'm getting the feeling that I came in at the end. The best is over."

 

[21-135 Apo All Good]

To the OP:

Congrats on the purchase! Just a quick thought: Do you wear eye glasses? Reason I ask is that you mentioned that you have the .85 viewfinder. If you do wear glasses, may I suggest the investment in the Voightlander 35mm brilliant viewfinder that plugs into the hot shoe. Since I wear glasses, I've found this little finder to be worth its' weight in gold! Great for grab shots and for people shots as well. The .85 finder is very accurate focus-wise, then I move to the accessory viewfinder to finish composing & taking the shot. I think I bought mine at Tamarkin when they were still in the City.

Dave

 

[analogpics]

Lauffray: Right? I was also looking at the leica CL for price/size reasons, but also, i liked the positioning of the shutter speed dial.

Damaso: Looks like you do too 🙂

21-135 Apo All Good: Thank you and yes, i certainly am an eye glass wearer. Hmm, i was trying to avoid going the accessory shoe route since i like to keep that open for a flash, but maybe its worth checkin out. Thanks!

 

[seakayaker1]

Congratulations on the M6 TTL with the 35 Cron!

Beautiful Black Paint!


. . . . . I choose to go with the chrome version.

You made an excellent choice and I do not think you will second guess your decision after use over a short period of time.

 

[analogpics]

Thanks seakayaker1! The chrome looks great too 🙂 which half case is that? I was looking at getting a soft release as well, how do you like yours? So i snapped a handful of pics today, but i'm still sloooooow with it compared to just about every other camera i own haha...but hopefully that'll change soon 😉

 

[seakayaker1]

Thanks seakayaker1! The chrome looks great too 🙂 which half case is that? I was looking at getting a soft release as well, how do you like yours? So i snapped a handful of pics today, but i'm still sloooooow with it compared to just about every other camera i own haha...but hopefully that'll change soon 😉

The half case is: ARTISAN & ARTIST* LMB-M3 SERIES BLACK LEATHER HALF CASE. can be found here or other online sites: http://www.popflash.com/accessories/artisan-artist-lmb-m3-series-black-leather-half-case-new/

I have a half case on my M6 TTL and MP and bought both of mine from Glazers Camera store in Seattle.

The soft release works for me and I have a few of them, one for each camera, and a spare. I purchased mine directly from Tim Issac at Match Technical which you can find here: http://matchtechnical.com/Beep.aspx

I have the 'Opera Act 2' which sits on my MP, the 'Carp' which sits on my M6 TTL, the 'Red Dragon' for the M9, and a 'Gold Dragon' as a back up.


I bought the film Leica rangefinders to slow down and find that a nice benefit. Certainly after a few rolls of film you will feel more comfortable but for now relax and take your time and let your hands, head, and heart take the photograph.

Enjoy the M6!

 

[Richard G]

Richard G: yeah, i was actually contemplating the planar as i heard the sonnar suffers from focus shift? What's been your experience? That'd be great if they can eventually fix that issue, but if they haven't done it yet, they probably never will lol. From what i read, if you send it in to them, then they can recalibrate it, but it'll only be optimized for 1.5, or 2.8. But yeah, i was thinking about the 50 planar...though there's part of me that may stick with the leica glass for now...we'll see!

Haigh: Yeah, i'm trying to teach myself to automatically do those things before i bring the camera to my eye, though its goin slow so far haha. Thank you, i'm prety proud of my beauty ^_^

The C Sonnar focus shift is not fixable, being inherent to the design. Mine is optimized for 1.5, apparently, because I wanted it for wide open when possible. My own formal tests of its focus optimization were confusing, however. In practice I have noticed no problem at any aperture or distance. I have hardly used my 50 Summicron since getting the Sonnar.

 

[analogpics]

seakayaker1: Thank you 🙂 i wonder if it's possible to modify such a case so you don't need to remove it to reload film. Seems like i saw someone do that with their leica CL case. I'll check out those soft releases, seems like many leica shooters use them. I will have to take your advice as i'm unable to shoot in my usual spontaneous fashion 😛

Richard G: do you have tove forward/backward a little when focusing wide open and close? That's what i hear from other reviews. I just don't want to have to worry about that when im shooting haha. But yeah, i love the size and 1.5 of the sonnar so...i may keep that one as an option hehe...