Ronald_H
Don't call me Ron
Hi all,
My second bottle of Kodak HC-110 is almost gone. I use it as a one shot developer and like its keeping properties and flexibility. Looking at the endless list of developers on the market I am wondering if I should try something else, like Rodinal.
My normal modus operandi:
- I very much prefer something that keeps well and can be used as a one-shot developer. My b/w volume isn't that huge.
- I prefer old-tech films, mostly Ilford FP4+ and Kodak Tri-X. I occasionally use other films when they come my way (Ilford Delta, Foma 100 and 200, TMax, expired APX)
- I regularly push Tri-X to 1600, sometimes beyond.
- I want something that yields negs that both scan and wet print well. I use a diffuser enlarger.
My second bottle of Kodak HC-110 is almost gone. I use it as a one shot developer and like its keeping properties and flexibility. Looking at the endless list of developers on the market I am wondering if I should try something else, like Rodinal.
My normal modus operandi:
- I very much prefer something that keeps well and can be used as a one-shot developer. My b/w volume isn't that huge.
- I prefer old-tech films, mostly Ilford FP4+ and Kodak Tri-X. I occasionally use other films when they come my way (Ilford Delta, Foma 100 and 200, TMax, expired APX)
- I regularly push Tri-X to 1600, sometimes beyond.
- I want something that yields negs that both scan and wet print well. I use a diffuser enlarger.
x-ray
Veteran
I've used HC-110 since 1975 as well as Rodinal since 1968. Both are great but for general use HC110 is my choice.
drewbarb
picnic like it's 1999
All the factors you mention lead to me suggest you stick with HC-110. Rodinal is a wonderful developer, but it's not great for pushing. (Yes, you will see loads of folks who disagree with me, citing great results pushing film in Rodinal at very high dilutions using stand or semi-stand development- but I've never been happy with the results I've seen from doing this.) For slower films and/or lower ISO's/EI's, Rodinal is my go-to soup. But for a single versatile all 'round developer that can give great results across a wide range of speeds, HC-110 is tough to beat. I find dilution H gives excellent results from Tri-X at any speed from 200 to 2000 EI. Dilution B is great for slower speeds too, to give faster processing times. Tough soup to beat, especially if you want a one-shot that will last a long time in concentrate.
Now, if you want to try some other developers along side of HC-110 as your regular, I'd go straight to Rodinal....
Now, if you want to try some other developers along side of HC-110 as your regular, I'd go straight to Rodinal....
nikon_sam
Shooter of Film...
Buy another bottle of HC-110 and maybe a bottle of Rodinal or D-76 or D-11 or ???
Try something different/new to you...
I would never have strayed from my regular chemistry if it wasn't for the people here in RFF...
I had been using D-76 forever but was concerned with shelf life...I have packets of the stuff but none ready to use...
I'm happy with the results from Rodinal. I will continue to use/buy it and I'm very glad I tried something new...
Stick with something you like but give something new a try too...
Try something different/new to you...
I would never have strayed from my regular chemistry if it wasn't for the people here in RFF...
I had been using D-76 forever but was concerned with shelf life...I have packets of the stuff but none ready to use...
I'm happy with the results from Rodinal. I will continue to use/buy it and I'm very glad I tried something new...
Stick with something you like but give something new a try too...
pschauss
Well-known
I started using D76 for everything but switched to HC-110 and Rodinal because I was concerned about the useful lifespan of D76 stock solution. For Tri-X, I have not found anything which give me better results than HC-110 dilution H.
Brian Legge
Veteran
What about something like XTOL? I just finished my bottle of HC110 and plan on trying it next with the hope of getting a bit more speed out of the film I'm using while keeping decent shadow detail. I really like the results I've seen online using it.
I use Rodinal and love the results with slower films but shoot tri x at 250 or so in it. If you are looking for something to push with there are probably better options out there.
I use Rodinal and love the results with slower films but shoot tri x at 250 or so in it. If you are looking for something to push with there are probably better options out there.
Fotohuis
Well-known
Rodinal is a typical developer for slow- and medium speed films. In 35mm the grain can be too big for the higher speed films.
I am using it since 1967. It has a wide range of applications, also in the higher dilution for a lower contrast type developer. Above 1+75 it has some staining effects too.
In 35mm my limit is for the Fomapan Creative 200 film, E.I. 125-160 in Rodinal 1+50 which gives sharp negatives but already the grain is visible.
Here one of my examples for this film:
M7+ Elmarit 2,8/28mm + dark Y filter.
Another good application for Rodinal is for the Orthopan Efke films: 25-50. HC-110 has a very good lifetime for the concentrate but Rodinal is even better. You can also make the dilution easily with a regular small cylinder glass. For HC-110 you need a long, small syringe due to the sirup.
An important thing is to minimize the agitation for Rodinal. Also you have to keep the temperature under 22C.
With too many agitation and a too high temperature Rodinal will generate a lot of extra grain.
THE classical combination for Rodinal 1+50 was APX-100 E.I. 80. The most close alternative is Fomapan 100 E.I. 80.
Here an example of Rodinal 1+50 and APX-100/Rollei Retro 100. M7 + Sumicron 2,0/50mm.
I am using it since 1967. It has a wide range of applications, also in the higher dilution for a lower contrast type developer. Above 1+75 it has some staining effects too.
In 35mm my limit is for the Fomapan Creative 200 film, E.I. 125-160 in Rodinal 1+50 which gives sharp negatives but already the grain is visible.
Here one of my examples for this film:
M7+ Elmarit 2,8/28mm + dark Y filter.
Another good application for Rodinal is for the Orthopan Efke films: 25-50. HC-110 has a very good lifetime for the concentrate but Rodinal is even better. You can also make the dilution easily with a regular small cylinder glass. For HC-110 you need a long, small syringe due to the sirup.
An important thing is to minimize the agitation for Rodinal. Also you have to keep the temperature under 22C.
With too many agitation and a too high temperature Rodinal will generate a lot of extra grain.
THE classical combination for Rodinal 1+50 was APX-100 E.I. 80. The most close alternative is Fomapan 100 E.I. 80.
Here an example of Rodinal 1+50 and APX-100/Rollei Retro 100. M7 + Sumicron 2,0/50mm.
zupstermix
Established
I have used Rodinal since I started developing. Lately, I have tried HC110 for my Double X and now I prefer to use HC110 than Rodinal. However, I haven't tried HC110 for my other films. I think it's better that you stick with HC110 and do just a little experiment on Rodinal or other developers of your choice.
M2-DOUBLEXAT200-Scan-120616-0026 by zupstermix, on Flickr
--- HC110
M2-DOUBLEXAT400-Scan-120404-0004 by zupstermix, on Flickr
--- Rodinal.
M2-DOUBLEXAT200-Scan-120616-0026 by zupstermix, on Flickr
--- HC110
M2-DOUBLEXAT400-Scan-120404-0004 by zupstermix, on Flickr
--- Rodinal.
Ljós
Well-known
Ronald, for pushing Tri-X I would also suggest to stick to HC-110. Myself, I switched to XTOL and liking it so far, but I have a higher throughput and am done with my batch of XTOL long before there are any legitimate worries about lifespan of the developer.
But, you could add Rodinal as a developer for your slower films. For example Ilford FP4plus in Rodinal 1+50 is gorgeous, and (in my experience and to my eyes) in HC-110 it is far from being like this.
Even non-pushed Tri-X and Rodinal is a great combination.
Have fun experimenting!
Greetings, Ljós
But, you could add Rodinal as a developer for your slower films. For example Ilford FP4plus in Rodinal 1+50 is gorgeous, and (in my experience and to my eyes) in HC-110 it is far from being like this.
Even non-pushed Tri-X and Rodinal is a great combination.
Have fun experimenting!
Greetings, Ljós
Jani_from_Finland
Well-known
I just made a mix tank with 120 tmax 100 and 400 plus 35mm FP4 and acros in HC110 Stand (15ml in 1l) for 60min, looks great. will try to scan some soon.
Mablo
Well-known
Rodinal is so sweet but you lose at least one stop compared to HC-110. Grainwise they are quite similar. Neither is good for pushing IMO. You could try Xtol for a change. It's cheap, it keeps many months, you can push or pull with it easily, it works wonderfully with all films... it's a good companion for HC-110 or Rodinal.
Here's one with APX100@64 with Xtol 1+1
Here's one with APX100@64 with Xtol 1+1
Bingley
Veteran
Given Kodak's perilous situation, I'm thinking of stocking up on HC 110, which is now my prefered developer for Tri-X. I'm still using Rodinal for TMax films and older emulsions like Plus-X when shot at box speed or slower, but for Tri-X HC 110 is hard to beat.
However, if you're going to be pushing Tri-X, Diafine can give nice results, plus it's reusable. I've had good results from Tri-X exposed at iso 800 and developed in Diafine; not quite as good as Plus-X in Diafine, but quite acceptable. YMMV.
However, if you're going to be pushing Tri-X, Diafine can give nice results, plus it's reusable. I've had good results from Tri-X exposed at iso 800 and developed in Diafine; not quite as good as Plus-X in Diafine, but quite acceptable. YMMV.
mike rosenlof
Insufficient information
From the OP's description, HC110 sounds like a fine choice. IMHO, you're much better sticking to one developer and learning it well than searching for the magic elixir. The magic comes much more from your choice of subject, exposure, and optics than from your developer.