Konica Hexar AF Hexar button fix step-by-step

Got it off by prising it up from the top level at one corner, with the screw driver. Totally disassembled it looks very very clean. That's disappointing.
 
Putting it back together I made sure to align the power/mode switch on the main camera, with the orientation of the top plate switch (off) so as the top would fit and I would not snap off the plastic linkage from the interior switch dial. The top plate needed some pressing home but there seemed to be no other careful fitting required. It works still, which is good. Maybe slightly bending the claws of the bronze contact plate on which that final button sits was the only thing needed to get mine back to normal. I cleaned everything and polished with a micro fibre cloth but it all looked very clean when I first got in there.
 
Last thing: I am 52 this week and I have excellent multifocals, but I could not have done this without the head-mounted loupe I bought my teenage son last year.
 
Awesome! Thanks for this. I am not a fix it guy at all, but I just followed your excellent instructions and everything went smoothly. My Konica works perfectly now, I am overjoyed.
 
Hello all,

today I migrated my Hexar AF article to my new website, the move was long overdue:

http://www.johanniels.com/index.php...7-konica-hexar-af-the-ultimate-compact-camera

It contains lots of info on use, accessories, enabling Silent Mode, a link to manuals, reference cards, this thread for the sticky shutter button issue and even some assorted video clips from YouTube.

I hope it will be of use to some (many)!
 
So I tried this fix twice now and the problem's only gotten worse. Is three cleanings really the charm or could the switch just be bad??

I've ordered a couple of ALPS switches from Mouser and am willing to try installing one. Has anyone tried this method and is it a better, more permanent fix to this problem?

I'd like to keep using this camera for a long long time....
 
drumlin said:
So I tried this fix twice now and the problem's only gotten worse. Is three cleanings really the charm or could the switch just be bad??

I've ordered a couple of ALPS switches from Mouser and am willing to try installing one. Has anyone tried this method and is it a better, more permanent fix to this problem?

I'd like to keep using this camera for a long long time....
Click to expand...

@drumlin, im curious about the new switch you ordered. Did it work out for you? Apparently the little round plastic trigger thingy on my switch is worn out and deformed so it dosent matter how well i clean it. I guess that changing switch is my only way out now. But dare i do it myself?
 
...Or is it anybody else who has orderd that clearly smaller switch and changed it? I´m greatful for any feedback in this matter! :)
 
Sorry for the long delay. I didn't have this thread subscribed.

I have the switches, but I've completely chickened out on the idea of soldering them on myself. My soldering skills are pretty meat-fisted at best. I've just emailed some folks who might be willing to do this repair. I'll let you know what I've come up with when I find someone
 
Update!

I found a fellow who is willing to replace the switch on these cameras. He is a former Minolta engineer and he is a stand up guy who does good work, at least in my n=1 sample set. I am happy to have a very responsive shutter that hopefully will be working well into the next decade.

PM me and I'll be happy to get you in touch.
 
Thanks for that very nice and detailed description (great pictures too)!! Me and my revived Hexar will be eternally grateful! Thought I would just pitch in with my findings to help the next fella who has the same problem.

1.
As been said there is no need to free the ribbon cable. I had some nerve wrecking minutes where I could only get three dashes on the display and all buttons dead. Finally got the cable in deep enough and it sprung back to life, phew! The shutter was still haywire, so for the next attempts I just left the cable in the connector and used a piece of scotch tape to hold the pcb out of the way.

2.
When prying off the top of the shutter wrap a little scotch tape around the screwdriver near the tip to protect of the electronics. It is also advisable to hold a finger on top of the switch, while forcing the plate off, to avoid breaking the solderings under the switch. I also found it best to stick the tip under the rightmost leg (that came out wrong). It is scary as hell and if I hadn't read you guys replies I would never have had the guts to apply enough force to lift the top plate off.

3.
The little black part of the contact must sit with the widest part upwards. Messed this up and it wouldn't fire.

4.
The crab thingie doesn't need to have its legs bend for this to work. Tried a few configurations and it only seems to determine the travel between focusing and releasing the shutter. At last I finally got everything to work correctly after thoroughly cleaning the corners of the switch baseplate and after almost straightening the 'crab feet'. Don't know if it was the corners or the straightening that did the magic however.

Feel as proud as when I developed my first roll of film!
 
Hello everyone. After many months of hesitating I eventually got hold of an original black HEXAR AF in pristine condition. I load the camera with film and realise that the shutter is doing all sort of weird things, not being able to hold down focus but mostly being unresponsive when I press down to take the shot. If I press hard enough it sometimes works, but really it is best described as random. I dreaded having to face that possibility and unfortunately here I am with this problem.

First of all, does that sound like the problem you are all experiencing?

I am really not a fix it guy at all, as someone else also said, but at least he was successful. I messed up cameras and lenses in the past trying my hand at repairs, but none was worth as much as this Hexar and really, I only just bought it and feel very frustrated that the first thing I have to do is perform surgery on it...

Is it really something that anyone half-competent with his hands can do, or are you all at a "semi-pro" level of craftmanship?

Thanks in advance.
 
I've also caved and bought a black Hexar, the test roll looked fantastic, and any issues were user error.

The only issue I'm having is that when switching it on, the camera sometimes waits up to about 10 seconds and then wakes up.

This happens more if it's been off a little while, if it's been turned on and off, it powers up much faster. Has anyone else had this?
 
Gregoris said:
Hello everyone. After many months of hesitating I eventually got hold of an original black HEXAR AF in pristine condition. I load the camera with film and realise that the shutter is doing all sort of weird things, not being able to hold down focus but mostly being unresponsive when I press down to take the shot. If I press hard enough it sometimes works, but really it is best described as random. I dreaded having to face that possibility and unfortunately here I am with this problem.

First of all, does that sound like the problem you are all experiencing?
Click to expand...

YES

Gregoris said:
I am really not a fix it guy at all, as someone else also said, but at least he was successful. I messed up cameras and lenses in the past trying my hand at repairs, but none was worth as much as this Hexar and really, I only just bought it and feel very frustrated that the first thing I have to do is perform surgery on it...

Is it really something that anyone half-competent with his hands can do, or are you all at a "semi-pro" level of craftmanship?

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

If you doubt yourself too much it's probably best not to go forward (mum said that and she was always right so far:D). Did you get it from a dealer or eBay? Demand a refund and return it!
 
BlackXList said:
I've also caved and bought a black Hexar, the test roll looked fantastic, and any issues were user error.

The only issue I'm having is that when switching it on, the camera sometimes waits up to about 10 seconds and then wakes up.

This happens more if it's been off a little while, if it's been turned on and off, it powers up much faster. Has anyone else had this?
Click to expand...

Haven't heard that one before and I have bought and sold close to two dozen Hexars over time.

Have you tried it with a new battery? Sounds like it might be exhausted, or maybe the battery is just very cold? Cold batteries release power much slower and an old battery also does...

Good luck!
 
I've switched battery in it (both were brand new), and it still seems to be doing it.

It is possible that it's got a little cooler than it likes, but I've not had any issues with my T3 (apparently they're cold sensitive).

The camera always turns on, and out shooting with it it will be left on, I'm just a little concerned at the unusual behaviour
 
Just tested it again.

Out of the bag, I turned it on, it sits with a blank LCD for over 10 seconds, then does the usual start up "---" and then the frame number.

My hand is around the hand grip the whole time, and subsequent times I turn it on, it starts up as it should.
 
I got it off ebay, no returns accepted. My heart is not in it for returning it, because it is in otherwise excellent condition and also it seems to me, after reading your comments, that this kind of problem comes to all Hexars eventually so even if I got another one, chances are that this thing will probably happen again.

Reading the walkthrough for the repair and I initially started getting worried about how to not disconnect the soldering on the hot shoe after removing the top plate. Do you place your camera on its back? These things are really fragile.

What is the most challenging part of the whole surgery to you, johannielscom?
 
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