Jack Conrad
Well-known
My good friend, knowing my camera addiction, handed me a box
and said, "check it out and give me an offer."
I have no idea. Prices are all over the place online.
Maybe you all can help?
Here's the box.
The contents.
As far as I can tell, everything looks pretty good. The shutter sounds good. The Sonnar 150/4 glass is pristine. The two finders are spotless. The backs all appear to be good. Two 12's and two polaroid backs. A couple of filters and the handle thing.
Some paint loss around the tripod mount and one of the 120 backs. Otherwise pretty awesome. Probably not used all that much.
Is it worth 3 gold balls the size of the world like the box says?
Any idea's?
and said, "check it out and give me an offer."
I have no idea. Prices are all over the place online.
Maybe you all can help?
Here's the box.
The contents.
As far as I can tell, everything looks pretty good. The shutter sounds good. The Sonnar 150/4 glass is pristine. The two finders are spotless. The backs all appear to be good. Two 12's and two polaroid backs. A couple of filters and the handle thing.
Some paint loss around the tripod mount and one of the 120 backs. Otherwise pretty awesome. Probably not used all that much.
Is it worth 3 gold balls the size of the world like the box says?
Any idea's?
FrankS
Registered User
Between $500 and $1000. IMO
Jack Conrad
Well-known
I'm liking.
Any opinions on that 150/4 Sonnar lens? What it's used for? Seems long to me.
Any opinions on that 150/4 Sonnar lens? What it's used for? Seems long to me.
johannielscom
Snorting silver salts
Can't help you straight away with prices but with observations: That's a complete kit and it appears to be a well-matched one too.
Although it's often that separate parts bring more when selling, I'd go with the above approach on this one and try to sell it as 'the one kit you will ever need to get quality shots' or something like that.
I don't know squat about Hasselblads but I know a cool kit when I see one!
Although it's often that separate parts bring more when selling, I'd go with the above approach on this one and try to sell it as 'the one kit you will ever need to get quality shots' or something like that.
I don't know squat about Hasselblads but I know a cool kit when I see one!
Gumby
Veteran
the 150 is a really nice lens, especially for portaiture.
Regarding prices, do homework on ebay completed sales. Prices on Hassy are volatile and may be much less for 500C/M and silver lenses than you might think. Prices/values have been plumetting.
Jack Conrad
Well-known
I don't know squat about Hasselblads but I know a cool kit when I see one!
My sentiments exactly. Lol...
After playing with it for a few hours, and after many other cameras, this (Hasselblad) definitely "feels" like a seriously fine camera.
Better than a Cadillac.
Bill Clark
Veteran
I use the 150 for portraits. Quite a few made by Zeiss, hence a pretty good price can be found.
bobbyrab
Well-known
Watch a few on ebay and see how they do. I know with some of the older lenses such as this there is an issue with parts no longer being available, but I'm sure someone who knows more than me will chime in.
When I bought mine, I went for the 501 which was a fairly recent model but cheaper than the 503, the 500 could be quite old as it was in production for quite a while, that said, if it works it works, you have it to hand and can see the condition unlike a blind punt on ebay.
Prices hit a low about 4 years ago, then seemed to shoot up again, now they seem to be on the way back down again, but that's the UK market I'm looking at, check out completed listings and gauge it from there.
When I bought mine, I went for the 501 which was a fairly recent model but cheaper than the 503, the 500 could be quite old as it was in production for quite a while, that said, if it works it works, you have it to hand and can see the condition unlike a blind punt on ebay.
Prices hit a low about 4 years ago, then seemed to shoot up again, now they seem to be on the way back down again, but that's the UK market I'm looking at, check out completed listings and gauge it from there.
moreammo
Established
I would guess :
$250 for the Sonnar
$400 for one body / back
about $150 for the extras
$100 for the extra 120
$200 for the two Polaroids
$1100 seems fair to me. Very clean looking and a very nice setup.
$250 for the Sonnar
$400 for one body / back
about $150 for the extras
$100 for the extra 120
$200 for the two Polaroids
$1100 seems fair to me. Very clean looking and a very nice setup.
FrankS
Registered User
The Polaroid backs are somewhat obsolete now. I see them selling for $20-30.
janrzm
Established
I just recently bought the following for US$1100.00 it may be a touch expensive but when you live in NZ you have to be prepared to pay a little extra for what you want.....;-)
500c body with A12 back
50mm Disatagon f/4
80mm Planar f/2.8
150mm Sonnar f/4
All immaculate and working perfectly.
I think the estimate around $800 is a fair one.
500c body with A12 back
50mm Disatagon f/4
80mm Planar f/2.8
150mm Sonnar f/4
All immaculate and working perfectly.
I think the estimate around $800 is a fair one.
Vince Lupo
Whatever
The 150's are not a lot of money, though they are nice lenses. You can get a good idea of the costs by going on KEH's website.
For all that, I'd think $650-$750.
For all that, I'd think $650-$750.
bobbyrab
Well-known
I'm not sure what film the polaroid backs will take, I never had one for the hasselblad, if they'll take Fuji then fine, but what I've seen so far of the resurrected Polaroid film has been poor and very expensive.
FrozenInTime
Well-known
Beware of gift horses:
Do you really want to start a system without a 80mm lens ? budget another $500-700 for that.
The wear on the body back an lens mount show it's been used a fair bit - the metal bares when backs and lenses are swapped.
Unless it's exactly what you want bid low - $500 ?
FP-100C is still available - I occasionally use it in my Polaroid back.
Do you really want to start a system without a 80mm lens ? budget another $500-700 for that.
The wear on the body back an lens mount show it's been used a fair bit - the metal bares when backs and lenses are swapped.
Unless it's exactly what you want bid low - $500 ?
FP-100C is still available - I occasionally use it in my Polaroid back.
Terry Christian
Established
Also check out what KEH is selling used items for. At least that way you'll get an idea of how the value varies with condition.
Jack Conrad
Well-known
Good advice everybody.
x-ray
Veteran
I've used hasselblad for many years and know the system well.
The 150 Sonnar is a non T* which means its single coated and early. It's still a very good lens. The downside is it uses a compur shutter and while it can still be repaired parts are getting more scarce. The good part is there are many good techs that can do a fine jod if it needs serviced. If parts get really scarce the lenses are so cheap you can buy another possibly cheaper than you could get it repaired.
It's an exceptional lens that I've used for some very fine images. I would skip the 80mm and get a 60mm at some point. Nice combo.
The 500cm you show is a late production. Find camera but the 500c and cm cut off part of the top of the image in the view finder (not on the film) with a 150 or longer lens. The mirror is slightly too small to reflect the entire image to the focusing screen. With the 150 it's no big deal. Wides do not have this issue. This was resolved with the 501cm and 503.
The prism is nice for general shooting. The grip and Polaroids aren't worth much.
The total package if working properly, $700-750.
Nice system. You can snap on a digital back if desired without modification. Almost everyone makes a victor version of their back. I personally use a Hasselblad back on mine.
There are some incredible lenses available at unbelievably cheap prices. They're so cheap like the 150 & 50 you can throw them away (almost) if they break. Don't worry too much, the V lenses are made to work hard and last for decades.
More recent lenses are te CF, CFE, CFI and CB. All use prontor shutters. There are plenty of parts. These had nicer focusing ring rubber coated and non cross coupled aperture and shutter speeds ( nice). The CF and CB are non electronic coupled for the Non electronic bodies and the CB is an economy version. I think it lacks the F function for the 2000 series. Not an issue for you. The CFe and CFi have electrical contacts for the electronic bodies. Same lens formulas as the CF and are much more expensive than CF lenses. All are T* multi coated.
The 150 Sonnar is a non T* which means its single coated and early. It's still a very good lens. The downside is it uses a compur shutter and while it can still be repaired parts are getting more scarce. The good part is there are many good techs that can do a fine jod if it needs serviced. If parts get really scarce the lenses are so cheap you can buy another possibly cheaper than you could get it repaired.
It's an exceptional lens that I've used for some very fine images. I would skip the 80mm and get a 60mm at some point. Nice combo.
The 500cm you show is a late production. Find camera but the 500c and cm cut off part of the top of the image in the view finder (not on the film) with a 150 or longer lens. The mirror is slightly too small to reflect the entire image to the focusing screen. With the 150 it's no big deal. Wides do not have this issue. This was resolved with the 501cm and 503.
The prism is nice for general shooting. The grip and Polaroids aren't worth much.
The total package if working properly, $700-750.
Nice system. You can snap on a digital back if desired without modification. Almost everyone makes a victor version of their back. I personally use a Hasselblad back on mine.
There are some incredible lenses available at unbelievably cheap prices. They're so cheap like the 150 & 50 you can throw them away (almost) if they break. Don't worry too much, the V lenses are made to work hard and last for decades.
More recent lenses are te CF, CFE, CFI and CB. All use prontor shutters. There are plenty of parts. These had nicer focusing ring rubber coated and non cross coupled aperture and shutter speeds ( nice). The CF and CB are non electronic coupled for the Non electronic bodies and the CB is an economy version. I think it lacks the F function for the 2000 series. Not an issue for you. The CFe and CFi have electrical contacts for the electronic bodies. Same lens formulas as the CF and are much more expensive than CF lenses. All are T* multi coated.
jhthomasii
Established
i have a hassy question but i dont want to start a whole thread for it. i just got a 500c/m with a WLF but it doesnt have the little magnifier to help me focus. can i buy just that piece or do i have to get a whole new VF?
Rob-F
Likes Leicas
I would go with the upper end of that $500 to $1000 range. Even the $1100 I don't think would be out of line. I would value the individual pieces a little differently, but I still came out in the $1000 to $1100 range. And the prism wasn't included in the above estimate. However, the film backs may need work, and so might the lens. The shutters in old C lenses generally need some overhaul, with fresh parts. The shutter springs often need replacement, and although the technicians, such as David Odess, still have spares, they are no longer made. I think I saw two backs there, so assuming that perhaps one needs an overhaul, and perhaps the lens does, the cost (based on my experience) could easily be over $500.00. Just some things to be aware of.
Nokton48
Veteran
I would check -everything- before making an offer. Here is what David Odess suggests:
Camera body: Remove the lens and magazine. Press the release button, and hold it in. While you are holding it in, check to see that both of the rear flaps are opening all the way. Now let go of the release button, and check to make sure that both flaps have closed completely.
Lenses: Set the shutter speed ring to one second, and set the f stop ring to the largest opening (smallest number). Look into the front of the lens and fire the camera. The shutter blades should close down, then open instantaneously, stay open for one second, and then close again. While you are watching this happen, check to make sure that none of the shutter blades are broken or appear to be out of place. Also, notice how long the one-second exposure actually is. You can pretty much tell how long one second is. If the shutter is dragging at one second, it is an indication that the shutter needs to be cleaned and lubricated.
Wind the body again, turn your strobe on, and attach the synch cord to the lens. Set the shutter speed ring to the fastest speed and set the f stop ring to the largest opening (smallest number). Point the camera and the strobe to a light colored surface, and, while looking through the back of the camera body, fire the camera. You should see a brief, large round flash of light through the lens. If you see no flash of light at all through the lens, check to insure that the "VXM" lever on the lens is in the "X" position (only on the older C lenses). If you see part of the shutter blades instead of a round flash of light, there is a problem, and that lens should not be used. Check each of your lenses using this procedure. If you are photographing a wedding, it is a good idea to perform this particular check each time you change film magazines.
For older C lenses only: Set the shutter speed ring to one second, and set the f stop ring to the smallest setting (largest number), and, while looking into the front of the lens, press the depth of field preview lever on the lens. When you press it in, the diaphragm blades should quickly snap closed. If they close sluggishly, it is an indication the lens needs to be serviced.
Film magazine: Remove the lens from the body and put the magazine on. Remove the dark slide and try to remove the magazine from the body. It should not come off the body with the dark slide removed. Insert the dark slide in the magazine and try to fire the body. The body should not fire when the dark slide is inserted. Take the magazine off the body and remove the dark slide. Look at the serial number plate on the magazine and make sure that the light trap or light trap foil is not sticking out of the side of the magazine, into the image area.
A-12 magazines with the plastic flip up crank: Flip up the black plastic film advance crank and turn it clockwise. It should stop turning the moment the red/white indicator changes to all white. At this point, the number 1 will show in the film counter window. Fire and wind the camera 12 times while watching the film counter window and the red/white indicator window. Each time you fire the camera, the signal flag should change from white to red. When you wind the camera, the number in the film counter window should advance to the next number. After the 12th exposure, wind the camera and try to fire it again. It shouldn't fire after the 12th exposure. Now remove the insert from the magazine. The number wheel should return back to number 0.
Note: The newer A-12 magazines do not have a number 0. In this case, you will not see any number in the window.
Camera body: Remove the lens and magazine. Press the release button, and hold it in. While you are holding it in, check to see that both of the rear flaps are opening all the way. Now let go of the release button, and check to make sure that both flaps have closed completely.
Lenses: Set the shutter speed ring to one second, and set the f stop ring to the largest opening (smallest number). Look into the front of the lens and fire the camera. The shutter blades should close down, then open instantaneously, stay open for one second, and then close again. While you are watching this happen, check to make sure that none of the shutter blades are broken or appear to be out of place. Also, notice how long the one-second exposure actually is. You can pretty much tell how long one second is. If the shutter is dragging at one second, it is an indication that the shutter needs to be cleaned and lubricated.
Wind the body again, turn your strobe on, and attach the synch cord to the lens. Set the shutter speed ring to the fastest speed and set the f stop ring to the largest opening (smallest number). Point the camera and the strobe to a light colored surface, and, while looking through the back of the camera body, fire the camera. You should see a brief, large round flash of light through the lens. If you see no flash of light at all through the lens, check to insure that the "VXM" lever on the lens is in the "X" position (only on the older C lenses). If you see part of the shutter blades instead of a round flash of light, there is a problem, and that lens should not be used. Check each of your lenses using this procedure. If you are photographing a wedding, it is a good idea to perform this particular check each time you change film magazines.
For older C lenses only: Set the shutter speed ring to one second, and set the f stop ring to the smallest setting (largest number), and, while looking into the front of the lens, press the depth of field preview lever on the lens. When you press it in, the diaphragm blades should quickly snap closed. If they close sluggishly, it is an indication the lens needs to be serviced.
Film magazine: Remove the lens from the body and put the magazine on. Remove the dark slide and try to remove the magazine from the body. It should not come off the body with the dark slide removed. Insert the dark slide in the magazine and try to fire the body. The body should not fire when the dark slide is inserted. Take the magazine off the body and remove the dark slide. Look at the serial number plate on the magazine and make sure that the light trap or light trap foil is not sticking out of the side of the magazine, into the image area.
A-12 magazines with the plastic flip up crank: Flip up the black plastic film advance crank and turn it clockwise. It should stop turning the moment the red/white indicator changes to all white. At this point, the number 1 will show in the film counter window. Fire and wind the camera 12 times while watching the film counter window and the red/white indicator window. Each time you fire the camera, the signal flag should change from white to red. When you wind the camera, the number in the film counter window should advance to the next number. After the 12th exposure, wind the camera and try to fire it again. It shouldn't fire after the 12th exposure. Now remove the insert from the magazine. The number wheel should return back to number 0.
Note: The newer A-12 magazines do not have a number 0. In this case, you will not see any number in the window.