Jack Conrad
Well-known
Hi, Mike.
I just watched your vids. Very useful and informative. Thank you for that.
Perhaps the lens is getting older, but it sure doesn't look or act old.
I have the camera loaded with some Tri-X 320.
Now all I need is a gorgeous bikini model, crashing waves, a beautiful mountain scene or some sort of spectacular architectural detail to shoot.
Maybe I'll fly to Tahiti real quick to shoot this roll.
I just watched your vids. Very useful and informative. Thank you for that.
Perhaps the lens is getting older, but it sure doesn't look or act old.
I have the camera loaded with some Tri-X 320.
Now all I need is a gorgeous bikini model, crashing waves, a beautiful mountain scene or some sort of spectacular architectural detail to shoot.
Maybe I'll fly to Tahiti real quick to shoot this roll.
I'd offer around $650-800. The Sonnar looks very nice, but as others said it's the older 'C' model, starting to get rather aged, and not T* coated. They're really a dime a dozen, but this looks like a nice example. Note that I shoot 150 as a walk-around lens fairly often, so it's not only for portraits.
I have a series of Hassy videos on YouTube that may help you out a bit:
http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL1FCD5129875F3768&feature=plcp
My favorite camera system, by far.
porch still life, fuji instant by mike thomas, on Flickr
(Fuji FP100B shot with the 150, just for fun)
bigeye
Well-known
The 150 is my favorite lens on my favorite camera. Lights out portraits. You have to try it to see if it works for you, though.
I have mostly CF versions, but like the machined C lenses as much. The only reason I went for the plasticy later version was age and uniform filter/shade size (B60). But, I don't think age matters as much as condition - all the "C"' parts seem to be forged.
-Charlie
I have mostly CF versions, but like the machined C lenses as much. The only reason I went for the plasticy later version was age and uniform filter/shade size (B60). But, I don't think age matters as much as condition - all the "C"' parts seem to be forged.
-Charlie
Ezzie
E. D. Russell Roberts
I too like 150 on 6x6, though in my case on a poor man's Kowa. It 's not that long considering. Even works for street. Though I must admit I use it most for those landscapes where you to isolate the subject(s) of interest. In fact the normal lens ahs seen so little use the shutter has stuck.
150 landscape
Norgips by Eirik0304, on Flickr
150 landscape
Norgips by Eirik0304, on Flickr
Ezzie
E. D. Russell Roberts
And with regards to Polaroid. The backs take type 100 film, which Fuji still make. If you haven't tried it out it's a bag of fun. Admittedly the 6x6 bak will crop out 15-20mm of the frame, it's still usefull. Especially if you want to give away the prints on the spot. Good at parties.
Nokton48
Veteran
Yes the Fujiroid is fun to use, it is a hoot. I have five of the Instant backs myself, at one time, you could get 100 B&W, 400 B&W, 3000EI B&W, and 100 Color. And I use different backs with the 500EL/M, versus the 500C/M, depending on what I have put together (Hasselblad is the erector set of photography). I still have a stockpile of all those instant films. The color is definately still available. Instant back is worth about 30 Bucks.
Much cheaper than buying a CFV digital back for previewing purposes!
I still have a stockpile of all those instant films. The color is definately still available. Instant back is worth about 30 Bucks.Much cheaper than buying a CFV digital back for previewing purposes!
Jamie123
Veteran
I'd say $500 would be fair. Granted, it's on the lower end but then again, he's a friend and he offered you the gear unsolicited so it's just fair if you get a friends discount.
If I had to price this out without a friend discount I would say:
-Body and back: $350 (though maybe $50 more because it's got the newer waistlevel finder)
-Lens: $150 (It's a nice lens but the 150mm is cheap these days.)
-Prism: $150
-Extra back: $80
-Pistol grip and Polaback: $25 each.
Anyways you should also test them out thoroughly. Shoot the lens at every speed and listen if the shutter sticks (especially at slow speeds). See if the mirror and the auxiliary shutter flip up with a tight snap and make sure that the mirror doesn't hang down.
If you want to test the backs you can either expose a roll and process it or load a roll, remove the back after each exposure and make a line at the edges with a marker pen. After the last shot take out the roll and examine the spacing between the lines.
If I had to price this out without a friend discount I would say:
-Body and back: $350 (though maybe $50 more because it's got the newer waistlevel finder)
-Lens: $150 (It's a nice lens but the 150mm is cheap these days.)
-Prism: $150
-Extra back: $80
-Pistol grip and Polaback: $25 each.
Anyways you should also test them out thoroughly. Shoot the lens at every speed and listen if the shutter sticks (especially at slow speeds). See if the mirror and the auxiliary shutter flip up with a tight snap and make sure that the mirror doesn't hang down.
If you want to test the backs you can either expose a roll and process it or load a roll, remove the back after each exposure and make a line at the edges with a marker pen. After the last shot take out the roll and examine the spacing between the lines.
FrankS
Registered User
Everyone needs a Hasselblad!
