Moto-Uno
Moto-Uno
This light banding on the top of these negatives has happened a few times now. I've used fresh developer each time (D-76 and TMax RS). It's been in a Patterson tank and I've checked to make sure the developer is over the top of the reel (used developed roll and the suggested measured quantity of water to verify it) On the negatives the banding goes through the spaces between the images. You bet I'd love some suggestions about what to try!!
Regards,Peter
Regards,Peter
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
That's 120 film in a Patterson tank, right? I had the same issue when I went to art school almost 20 yrs ago. I had learned to develop in high school using metal tanks and reels, but the university had only Patterson tanks. I got that kind of result on almost every 120 roll I developed before giving up and buying my own set of metal tanks and reels.
It is caused by air bubbles clinging to the edge of the film. The Patterson reel design exacerbates the problem because the space between the layers of film on the reel is too narrow for the air bubbles to easily escape, even if you bang the tank hard to dislodge them after each agitation cycle. I never, ever have that issue with my steel reels with 120 film. The Patterson reels are poorly designed. the image in 35mm film is far enough from the film's edge that this is uncommon with 35mm (air bubbles are there but not in the image area). In 120, the image is so close to the film edge that the trapped air bubbles cover part of the image.
It is caused by air bubbles clinging to the edge of the film. The Patterson reel design exacerbates the problem because the space between the layers of film on the reel is too narrow for the air bubbles to easily escape, even if you bang the tank hard to dislodge them after each agitation cycle. I never, ever have that issue with my steel reels with 120 film. The Patterson reels are poorly designed. the image in 35mm film is far enough from the film's edge that this is uncommon with 35mm (air bubbles are there but not in the image area). In 120, the image is so close to the film edge that the trapped air bubbles cover part of the image.
Moto-Uno
Moto-Uno
Thanks Chris,Strangely enough, the last few times I've been to Beau Photo here
in Vancouver I've been looking at the stainless film rolls.Are these any easier (or harder) to use than the Patterson reels? You're right about the 35mm film,never a problem with it.
Regards,Peter
in Vancouver I've been looking at the stainless film rolls.Are these any easier (or harder) to use than the Patterson reels? You're right about the 35mm film,never a problem with it.
Regards,Peter
ChrisN
Striving
Must be something about technique. I've never had air bubble issues with my Paterson tanks in seven years of trying. (Edit: except when contaminated with Photoflo residue.)
Do you rinse with Photoflo, in the tank? I suspect you may be getting some serious bubble-bath action going on in there.
I keep the rinse-aid out of the tank in a separate bath, and rinse the spool really well in very hot water afterwards.
Do you rinse with Photoflo, in the tank? I suspect you may be getting some serious bubble-bath action going on in there.
I keep the rinse-aid out of the tank in a separate bath, and rinse the spool really well in very hot water afterwards.
Moto-Uno
Moto-Uno
I think another light has come on!! I have recently started to use Kodaks photoflo (sp) and yes it certainly bubbles for some time at the end of the rinsing cycle.But,would this still have an effect after the developing,stop bath and clearing cycles?
Regards,Peter
Regards,Peter
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
Its happening during developing, the Photo-flo isn't the issue. These are not drying marks, which can be caused by photo flo that is too strong or too frothy, This is caused by air bubbles in the developer.
ChrisN
Striving
I found that if I put Photoflo into the developing tank for the rinse, the next time I used that tank I would find bubbles in the developer that I poured out. Probably a tiny bit of residue was carried over to the next time I used the tank. Perhaps I needed to do a better job of rinsing my tanks in hot water, as I now do with my reels. For me it's just easier to do the final Photoflo rinse stage in a separate container that is dedicated to that purpose, just to give me a little more confidence that I'm reducing the chance of contamination.
It's probably easy to test - just put some water into your tank, close the lid and give it a good shake. If you get bubbles you have Photoflo contamination!
varchs
Well-known
...this might help...
after each set of agitation... my tutor suggested me to "like" hit the bottom of the tank on a hard surface (ex. table) for a couple of times in order for the bubbles to go away...
maybe this helps...
p.s. excuse me for my english...
after each set of agitation... my tutor suggested me to "like" hit the bottom of the tank on a hard surface (ex. table) for a couple of times in order for the bubbles to go away...
maybe this helps...
p.s. excuse me for my english...
Moto-Uno
Moto-Uno
Today I'm out to get a few boxes of Tmax 400,load a couple of cameras,duplicate shots and try different techniques and a stainless reel.One of the reels with photoflo and one without.I 'll probably need more than a couple of cameras (I've got lots).Varchs,your English is fine!
Thanks again everyone,Peter
Thanks again everyone,Peter
Moto-Uno
Moto-Uno
A follow up on my search for the cause of the irregular banding in the photos. I did buy a stainless reel and tank and went thru the development cycle and they turned out fine.BUT,then I noticed that the stainless tank took less fluid to fill it. Light came on after pouring fixer back in container! The 1/2 liter container was about a
half inch below the full level (and the Patterson tanks need the full 1/2 liter to cover the 120 rolls).I simply topped up the fixer with water and developed the second roll in the Patterson tank and lo and behold it too was free of streaks!!! Can I be my own worst enemy? Thanks again for all the suggestions which led to correcting my faulty handy work.
Regards,Peter
half inch below the full level (and the Patterson tanks need the full 1/2 liter to cover the 120 rolls).I simply topped up the fixer with water and developed the second roll in the Patterson tank and lo and behold it too was free of streaks!!! Can I be my own worst enemy? Thanks again for all the suggestions which led to correcting my faulty handy work.
Regards,Peter