Grytpype
Well-known
In the course of some searches I came across this old (2003) photo.net thread in which Mr Scherer says that the focus helical in the Contax IIa/IIIa is designed to be assembled dry and ungreased. Exploring his own site I see that in this page he now says (point 10) that these, as well as Contax I, II, and III helicals should have a dry lubricant, and on another page he mentions Teflon for Contax II/III helicals.
I believe he may be right about this. I currently have a IIIa in pieces The helical was dry enough to chatter as it was turned, and shows little evidence of ever having seen any grease, apart from a residue of old grease at the ends of the infinity-lock slot, and it would make sense for this to have been greased. I've looked at another helical (from a IIa), off the camera but not stripped, and this looks much the same.
What are others using, lubrication-wise, on Contax helicals? I see that Teflon/PTFE dry lubricant is quite readily obtainable from cycle shops, and I am wondering whether this might be worth a try.
Steve.
I believe he may be right about this. I currently have a IIIa in pieces The helical was dry enough to chatter as it was turned, and shows little evidence of ever having seen any grease, apart from a residue of old grease at the ends of the infinity-lock slot, and it would make sense for this to have been greased. I've looked at another helical (from a IIa), off the camera but not stripped, and this looks much the same.
What are others using, lubrication-wise, on Contax helicals? I see that Teflon/PTFE dry lubricant is quite readily obtainable from cycle shops, and I am wondering whether this might be worth a try.
Steve.
Dez
Bodger Extraordinaire
I have had good luck with using light weight white grease on these helicals. If the grease is too heavy, that certainly shows up in the action of the focus helical, but it's much better than the dreaded dry chatter.
Cheers,
Dez
Cheers,
Dez
Grytpype
Well-known
Thanks Dez. I'm not sure what white grease translates to this side of the pond, but I have a very light moly grease I could use.
I might try the dry Teflon first to see how it works out, unless someone has already done so and tells me that it doesn't. It's not a big deal if I have to clean it out and go for the grease (and I can always use the Teflon lube on my bike chain!).
Steve.
I might try the dry Teflon first to see how it works out, unless someone has already done so and tells me that it doesn't. It's not a big deal if I have to clean it out and go for the grease (and I can always use the Teflon lube on my bike chain!).
Steve.
Dez
Bodger Extraordinaire
I think you should give the dry stuff a try. Henry certainly seems to be knowledgeable about Contax lubricants.
Cheers,
Dez
Cheers,
Dez
Highway 61
Revisited
1. Clean the two helical threads parts with some very hot water, dishwashing soap, and an used toothbrush.
2. Get them dry
3. Clean the two helical threads part with 000 steel wool (ultrafine) until the brass gets shiny and smooth as silk under your fingers
4. Repeat step 1 and 2
5. Put a thin layer of white lithium ball bearings grease on the male helical threads and reassemble.
2. Get them dry
3. Clean the two helical threads part with 000 steel wool (ultrafine) until the brass gets shiny and smooth as silk under your fingers
4. Repeat step 1 and 2
5. Put a thin layer of white lithium ball bearings grease on the male helical threads and reassemble.
Grytpype
Well-known
Thanks for that suggestion. The brass does look quite clean, but a fine polish might help. I'll get some 000 steel wool and do some experimenting.
Steve.
Steve.
Highway 61
Revisited
This ain't no "experimenting" matter but something well proofed to remove the thin oxydization layer before applying the lithium grease.
If you don't do it the grease will mix-up with the oxydized brass layer with time and get sticky. White ball bearings lithium grease must be applied on clean and degreased brass to perform as it's designed to.
Grytpype
Well-known
Point taken!