Best way to save money while shooting Medium Format?

[JChrome]

I just posted a new entry on my blog about ways to save money while shooting medium format. The basic tips are this:

• Buy everything you can on craigslist or ebay (film, developer, cameras, developing gear)
• Develop yourself.
• Shoot expired BnW or if new, Artista EDU (cheapest film I've ever found).
• Reuse developer (D76 or Diafine)

Do you guys have any other tips on how to save money while shooting Medium Format?


Blog post here:
http://stillthrill.com/2013/03/26/cheap-ticket-to-paradise-how-to-shoot-high-quality-on-a-budget/

 

[Vics]

1. Use fresh, high quality film. For me it's Tri-X
2. Develop yourself for best control.
3. Buy everything from a reputable dealer, thereby helping him stay in business.
4. To save money, Make every shot a keeper. The picture you see in the VF is the picture you'll see in the print. No chimping with MF.

 

[lam]

I use Neopan 100 ($3.50? a roll? to me worth it for Neopans properties), and some Rodinal (all the time in 1+50 dilution, crystalizes before I get to use it all!).

I also agree with making each shot count; that's the biggest saver for me.
🙂

Nice article was a good short-ish read!

 

[mgilbuena]

1> If cost per roll is important, shoot 6x4.5 or 6x6.
2> Color can also be developed at home! While the kits have a finite number of rolls that can be developed, they can be used beyond this point until the quality of the results no longer passes your personal objectives.
3> Use a digital camera as a modern polaroid to check for lighting and metering. Use the film camera for the final photo.
4> Live and have fun. Invest in your hobbies. They make who we are.

 

[ibcrewin]

Take the picture with another camera first. Preview it then take the MF shot using the shutter speed and aperture of the first pic. kwim?

You may only have 8 shots! (or 12)

 

[JChrome]

1. Use fresh, high quality film. For me it's Tri-X
2. Develop yourself for best control.
3. Buy everything from a reputable dealer, thereby helping him stay in business.
4. To save money, Make every shot a keeper. The picture you see in the VF is the picture you'll see in the print. No chimping with MF.

I agree on making each shot a keeper. It's probably of note that working harder and taking longer per shot saves film and then dollars.

But some of your items - 1 and 3 - aren't really in the interest of saving money. I agree that buying from a reputable dealer helps them stay in business. But buying off of craigslist is cheaper. Also, Tri-X is not the most economical film (even though its great admittedly).

 

[mbisc]

1. Use fresh, high quality film. For me it's Tri-X
2. Develop yourself for best control.
3. Buy everything from a reputable dealer, thereby helping him stay in business.
4. To save money, Make every shot a keeper. The picture you see in the VF is the picture you'll see in the print. No chimping with MF.

+1 on this list.

I may be coming from a slightly different angle, but I use 120 film whenever I can't use the 4x5 (e.g. tripod to clumsy), hence my slightly amended list:

1. Use ONE film in your camera(s), and do proper film testing for each camera.
2. Develop yourself (just part of the consistency etc.)
3. Buy local (if possible)
4. Make every shot a keeper - if you don't like what you see in the VF, don't take it...
5. Enjoy!

 

[Calzone]

I buy Ilford fixer from B&H in a 5 liter container that has to be special ordered. Price is about $8.00 a liter in bulk if I remember correctly. I also dilute 1+3 but I do developing marathons of 30-35 rolls of film to fully utilize the fixer without running the risk of under fixation.

I go to the NYC Meet-Up and get free film. Also get great deals on film at meet-ups on ocassion. Also friends that go digital give me mucho film (both 120 and 135). Always go to the PhotoPlus Expo at the Javits Center and visit the Kodak booth for free film. Hang ouit with Jeff when visiting the Kodak booth means extra (two rolls instead of one). Cost of registration for PhotoPlus Expo $0.00.

I load up on film when it is on sale. At Adorama they were selling lots of Fuji Arcos that was getting close to experation. Price was perhaps $3.19 a roll. Inquired if they made a mistake, and then decided to buy 200 rolls. Similarly I loaded up on film at Freestyle when they had special deals on close to expire film.

Currently looking into using Acufine instead of very expensive Ilford DDX to process Delta 400 at 200, 400, 500 650, and 800 ISO's. Times are kinda similar, and I can save by bulking up 5 gallon kits of Acufine that brings the price down.

I use Diafine BTW.

Cal

 

[fuji645]

First, buy quality film from known sources. This will remove the possibility of crappy film messing up your expertly exposed and perfectly composed photos. Second, develop film yourself; that includes B&W as well as color. For B&W try using a 1 shot like Rodinal or HC 110. Color works out to under $2 per roll depending on which product you use. I've done both myself with good results. Third, take every photo as if it was your last roll of film! This will eliminate waste. Fourth, if you shooting 6x9 try 6x6 or 6x4.5 (8 frames vs 6 or 15) Finally, buy a moderately priced digital or 35mm so that you can shoot to your heart's content without going bankrupt!

 

[cjbecker]

I think the best advice is make sure every frame count.

 

[Vics]

I agree on making each shot a keeper. It's probably of note that working harder and taking longer per shot saves film and then dollars.

But some of your items - 1 and 3 - aren't really in the interest of saving money. I agree that buying from a reputable dealer helps them stay in business. But buying off of craigslist is cheaper. Also, Tri-X is not the most economical film (even though its great admittedly).

Number one is a money-saver, especially if you shoot while traveling. You wouldn't want to find out that your "cheap" film is garbage AFTER that once-in-a-lifetime trip to Nepal. It's true that buying from a dealer won't save you money right now, but at 68, I take a longer view. Bottom-feeding for low-priced film may be the thing that causes the demise of film in the long run.
MF photography's whole point is high-end optical quality. After shelling it out for a Rollei or a Hassy, what's the point of skimping on film and developer?

 

[benlees]

Buying Kodak or Ilford films (usually) results in negatives that dry nice and flat. After wrestling with curly film (usually cheap) the spending extra $ seems like a gift.

 

[mfogiel]

Shoot 645. I have been amazed to see how good a Pentax 645N is.


MF20122810 by mfogiel, on Flickr

 

[Peter_Jones]

Stop giving in to GAS is the best advice 😉

 

[koven]

What about using a scanner?

Is it possible to just use a scanner and upload your pics to computer and process them with photoshop?

 

[Spanik]

I have to agree on using good quality film. I never stops to amaze me people putting long expired film in a camera and then spend long hours trying to save something out of it. You only get one chance to take the photo.

Where you buy is a point of personal favour. You can do yourself well anywhere but you have to be capable of judging the state of a piece of gear. If you cannot a dealer may be cheaper in the long run.

Make it count or reduce the size. So 6x4.5 for the holiday, 6x6 when taking a bit more care and 6x9 when feeling for it and having the time.

 

[TXForester]

I'm thinking of adding MF this year and some of these suggestions make sense and some seem counter intuitive.

You wouldn't want to find out that your "cheap" film is garbage AFTER that once-in-a-lifetime trip to Nepal.

This makes a lot of sense, and it isn't just the "once-in-a-lifetime trip to Nepal." Some you may shoot portraits (but not limited to this type of photography). Say you shoot cheap film that is garbage. What is the cost of buying better replacement film, extra gas money to make a second trip if it is location shoot (or the model has to drive to you a second time), spending more money on development. And then there is time wasted which in some cases equals money. Shooting cheap film for non-critical subjects is fine, but sometimes spending more now is cheaper than fixing your problems later.

And you can apply all of the above suggestions to 35mm and LF.

 

[Mcary]

1. Use fresh, high quality film. For me it's Tri-X
2. Develop yourself for best control.
3. Buy everything from a reputable dealer, thereby helping him stay in business.
4. To save money, Make every shot a keeper. The picture you see in the VF is the picture you'll see in the print. No chimping with MF.

All true and even more so it you're shooting large format. Though I must admit I cheap out on 4x5 film by using HP5+ rather then Trix-320 🙂
I've also started using D76 rather then DDX in order to save a bit of money.

 

[JChrome]

Number one is a money-saver, especially if you shoot while traveling. You wouldn't want to find out that your "cheap" film is garbage AFTER that once-in-a-lifetime trip to Nepal. It's true that buying from a dealer won't save you money right now, but at 68, I take a longer view. Bottom-feeding for low-priced film may be the thing that causes the demise of film in the long run.
MF photography's whole point is high-end optical quality. After shelling it out for a Rollei or a Hassy, what's the point of skimping on film and developer?

Points are all well taken. I certainly wouldn't be taking crap film to my only trip to Nepal. But for my everyday shooting? I don't mind it. And the Artista EDU and NeoPan aren't that bad.

I bought 25 rolls of Provia 100F slide film off of craigslist for $75 (unexpired). I shot a good chunk of it in Thailand and loved it! Its a great film.

So for everyone who's highest priority is saving money while shooting a lot of film and loving it - I am not opposed to buying the cheap stuff. But for projects, portraits, serious travel work - I would shell out more money for the good stuff.

 

[Spanik]

Didn't tought about it first, but as this is in the 120RF section, I wouldn't be using an RF and certainly not an old one if I tried to save money. I do have a Fuji G690BL and the film I waste in shots of the lenscap is out of proportion. Very much an RF problem. And those old RFs like my Ikonta, while cute and small can't really hold it against their more modern RFs sisters like the RF645 and SLR brothers like the Mamiya 645. If you go for medium format, go the whole length.