Out-of-date film: what adjustments do I need?

[Pfreddee]

I have some 120 Ilford FP5 that is 8 years out of date. I kept it in the freezer, and I want to use it. What adjustments do I need to make with ISO and metering ? Thank you to all who reply.

With best regards.

Pfreddee(Stephen)

 

[punkzter]

There is a general rule that people use: one stop for every decade.

I personally do not use this rule. When I have film that has been frozen and is relatively fresh (within a decade of expiration), I shoot at box speed. I've had zero issues doing this.

 

[Pál_K]

There is a general rule that people use: one stop for every decade.

I personally do not use this rule. When I have film that has been frozen and is relatively fresh (within a decade of expiration), I shoot at box speed. I've had zero issues doing this.

Same for me - although I keep my film refrigerated rather than frozen.

B&W film is less affected by age than color film. Anything less than a decade old seems to be ok at box speed. If your HP5+ has not been refrigerated, maybe try ISO 320.

In general, for negative color film as opposed to transparency film, I like to overexpose from 1/2 to 1 stop from box speed - it seems to produce a negative that can be worked with for better colors.

 

[KoNickon]

Color negative film is prone to color shift, even if it's been frozen. I don't know that overexposing can fully cure that.

 

[Retro-Grouch]

What about color transparency film? I have some Provia 400 that I was saving for something that needed the speed, but now it's 8 years past date and I'm hesitant to use it. It's been frozen the entire time, but still...

 

[x-ray]

The only issue you might have would be with films like Ilford 3200 and TMax 1600. I know from experience they’ll fog even if frozen. Other B&W emulsions are no issue if frozen and will keep for decades without speed loss. I have found rolls and even sleeve of various B&W emulsions like Agfa 100, 1960’s Pan-X, 1970’s TX, Provia, Ektachrome and Velvia that have been tucked away in my studio freezer for 20 years and more that have shown no degradation. Preening pretty much stops the aging of medium to slow films.

In shooting up leftover rolls from batches I’ve bought I’ve never made any adjustment in exposure or development. Right now I’m still using out of a large batch of a Neopan 400 and Acros 100 I’ve had frozen for at least ten years. I’m working my way through the film and see no loss of shadow detail or increase in base density.

I’d say just expose your film at your normal ISO and develop normally if it has been frozen.