besk
Well-known
My THEORY is/was (1) that it is more difficult to match the curvature of concave and convex surfaces to each other. (2) The two glasses being joined are different in chemical makeup. Therefore, they should have very slightly different rates of contraction and expansion from temperature changes.
Either of these will tend increase the chances of the elements separating over time compared to two flat surfaces being glued together.
I was educated as an engineer and tend to think about things like that.
Either of these will tend increase the chances of the elements separating over time compared to two flat surfaces being glued together.
I was educated as an engineer and tend to think about things like that.
DownUnder
Nikon Nomad
stompyq (#17) nailed it on the nose for me. My 3.5E2, bought new in 1966 - I still use it, alas not as often as I should - survived a decade of Canadian winters without lens problems until I took it to Australia in the '70s. After five years it developed the first signs of an egg-shaped separation which was more or less dormant for twenty years but has recently shown new signs of life.
I had the camera checked in the '90s by a renowned Rollei repairman in Melbourne - the late and sadly missed Heinz had a small shop in a lane near the Windsor in the city centre - who told me the separation might (or might not) expand in time and even then chances were good that with using a lens hood and avoiding head- or side-on portraits of direct sun, I could go on using it.
Here in Australia recementing a lens is one of many repairs that likely can no longer be done and this Rollei would have to be sent overseas at great expense. In the '80s York Optical in Tasmania did such work - they redid a Leitz universal finer for me for a then-whopping $A85, but I'm no longer sure if they are still in business. I expect the cost would be ultra high, even if fixing a Leitz viewfinder would surely be a simpler task than a Zeiss Planar.
You could do tests with two rolls of film (one B&W, one color neg) and check results carefully in an enlarger or with a strong loupe. You may be pleasantly surprised and your beloved 3.5F will go on shooting for many more years. Or you may not and it will become one of your shelf queens. It may be best for you to bite the bullet, find a reliable optical shop, and send it away to be done. A Rolleiflex is for life.
Mine has followed me throughout my many careers (I was 19 when I bought it on ten monthly payments) and it's the one 120 roll film camera I hope will see me to the end. As I'm in my seventies, it's looking a fair certainty, if 120 film doesn't go the way of the dodo or the passenger pigeon.
I had the camera checked in the '90s by a renowned Rollei repairman in Melbourne - the late and sadly missed Heinz had a small shop in a lane near the Windsor in the city centre - who told me the separation might (or might not) expand in time and even then chances were good that with using a lens hood and avoiding head- or side-on portraits of direct sun, I could go on using it.
Here in Australia recementing a lens is one of many repairs that likely can no longer be done and this Rollei would have to be sent overseas at great expense. In the '80s York Optical in Tasmania did such work - they redid a Leitz universal finer for me for a then-whopping $A85, but I'm no longer sure if they are still in business. I expect the cost would be ultra high, even if fixing a Leitz viewfinder would surely be a simpler task than a Zeiss Planar.
You could do tests with two rolls of film (one B&W, one color neg) and check results carefully in an enlarger or with a strong loupe. You may be pleasantly surprised and your beloved 3.5F will go on shooting for many more years. Or you may not and it will become one of your shelf queens. It may be best for you to bite the bullet, find a reliable optical shop, and send it away to be done. A Rolleiflex is for life.
Mine has followed me throughout my many careers (I was 19 when I bought it on ten monthly payments) and it's the one 120 roll film camera I hope will see me to the end. As I'm in my seventies, it's looking a fair certainty, if 120 film doesn't go the way of the dodo or the passenger pigeon.
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Jaroslav314
Newbie
Hi,
If anyone else needs repairs Rolleiflex 3.5f lens separation or a similar problem in another camera, you can contact me.
A person contacted me with a problematic assembly in Rolleiflex 3.5f, the separation took up approximately 2/3 of the entire area.
Here's an example of my work this week.
Original photo of the assembly from the owner.
The assembly I rolled out.
The assembly removed from the rim.
Already deglued assembly.
The same, but already washed from paint and glue.
Assembled doublet optical glue NOA61 was used.
The doublet's chamfer is painted with matte enamel.
The end of the doublet is painted with ink, a thin layer was needed.
These are the materials used.
The finished work, the doublet is rolled into the rim.
If anyone else needs repairs Rolleiflex 3.5f lens separation or a similar problem in another camera, you can contact me.
A person contacted me with a problematic assembly in Rolleiflex 3.5f, the separation took up approximately 2/3 of the entire area.
Here's an example of my work this week.
Original photo of the assembly from the owner.
The assembly I rolled out.
The assembly removed from the rim.
Already deglued assembly.
The same, but already washed from paint and glue.
Assembled doublet optical glue NOA61 was used.
The doublet's chamfer is painted with matte enamel.
The end of the doublet is painted with ink, a thin layer was needed.
These are the materials used.
The finished work, the doublet is rolled into the rim.
Jaroslav314
Newbie
Also available repolishing and recoating service.
kodachrome25
Member
This looks like exceptionally skilled work on re-cementing lens elements. I have a Rolleiflex 2.8 Zeiss Planar where the front elements show a rainbow reflection indicating element separation, although any degradation of the images it produces seem to be minimal. If over time it deteriorates, a repair would be needed such as you have illustrated.
May I ask what solvent would be used to dissolve the old lens cement and is there any risk to the surface anti-reflection coating of the glass elements. Also how would the re-cemented elements be held together to ensure perfect alignment during the curing process.
DownUnder
Nikon Nomad
Very useful posts. Many thanks.
My 3.5E2 Planar's separation was egg-shaped for several decades but recently I noticed a second area has now developed, like a small curved banana, still quite faint but visible. I intended to take the Rollei out for a test run when I as back in Australia in February, but time passed too quickly and I didn't get it done.
At any rate at my age I've decided it's now time to retire the camera to my display shelf and let whoever will take it when I'm gone, to deal with any repairs.
I will, however, save the information in this thread in case they decide to go with a repair. Nobody in either Australia or New Zealand it seems can do this work (formerly York Optical in Hobart, Tasmania did this sort of work but I've not checked to find out if they still do, or even if they are still in business) but there may be someone in Singapore who still does, tho' somehow I doubt it. More checking is definitely in order in the near future.
Again, thank you, Jaroslav314 for your useful, indeed your valuable posts.
My 3.5E2 Planar's separation was egg-shaped for several decades but recently I noticed a second area has now developed, like a small curved banana, still quite faint but visible. I intended to take the Rollei out for a test run when I as back in Australia in February, but time passed too quickly and I didn't get it done.
At any rate at my age I've decided it's now time to retire the camera to my display shelf and let whoever will take it when I'm gone, to deal with any repairs.
I will, however, save the information in this thread in case they decide to go with a repair. Nobody in either Australia or New Zealand it seems can do this work (formerly York Optical in Hobart, Tasmania did this sort of work but I've not checked to find out if they still do, or even if they are still in business) but there may be someone in Singapore who still does, tho' somehow I doubt it. More checking is definitely in order in the near future.
Again, thank you, Jaroslav314 for your useful, indeed your valuable posts.
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Jaroslav314
Newbie
The solvent I use is harmless to the coating and the centering is provided at the highest level.
The Lens Repair Apocalypse: Repair Shops INUNDATED with work, and will get worse.
There are very few Skilled "Opto-Mechanical Engineers" (I look at the work they do, refuse to use "technician") working on Classic Lenses that have hit a new high of popularity. I know first hand: Old Lenses are cans-of-worms, repair time varies greatly on same type lenses depending on the...
www.rangefinderforum.com
@Jaroslav314 - good to have an "opto-mechanical Engineer" (optical repair specialist) posting here. Rare Breed! Feel free to post some of your projects and services in my forum.
Brian Sweeney - DIYS Modifications
DIYS aka Do It Yourself Projects - mostly gear modifications
www.rangefinderforum.com