Any Zeiss Ikon ZM flash trigger voltage restrictions

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Like the title, are there any voltage restrictions for the Zeiss Ikon ZM rangefinder. I am planning on using my little Vivitar Auto Thyristor 225 flash tonight but this flash has a pretty high pretty high trigger voltage. It is a good flash and I have used it for years with my K1000 with no issues. But the Zeiss Ikon has a lot more electronics on board than my little K1000 does. The Users Manual says nothing about flash trigger voltage and I can't find any restrictions noted on-line. Any ideas?
 
As far as I know, 30v is the max flash trigger for a Zeiss Ikon ZM. Something like the old Vivitar 285 would be a no go. Doing a quick google search, your Vivitar 225 has a flash rigger of 177v, so I would NOT use it on the ZI.

In comparison, most modern flash units have a flash trigger of less than 10v.
 
As far as I know, 30v is the max flash trigger for a Zeiss Ikon ZM. Something like the old Vivitar 285 would be a no go. Doing a quick google search, your Vivitar 225 has a flash rigger of 177v, so I would NOT use it on the ZI.

In comparison, most modern flash units have a flash trigger of less than 10v.
I was afraid you guys would tell me that. I think I have owned that flash as long as I have owned the K1000. It just keeps on working. I have more modern flash units but they are all WAY bigger than that little 225.

I will probably just use my old rude and crude K1000 instead of the ZM tonight.
 
It might be worth picking up one of these if you're particularly set on the Vivitar unit: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/245292-REG/Wein_W990560_Safe_Sync_Hot_Shoe_to.html
Funny thing. I looked at one of those things several years ago and ended up buying a fancy new flash that tilted and swiveled all over the place. Thought I had it made.

I have only used that fancy new flash three or four times since I bought it. Its' too damned big and I hate it.

I almost always end up using that little Vivitar because...A) It is small and...B) because I have used it for so many years I can probably use it in my sleep!! Besides my digital camera (which I obviously rarely use) has a built in flash that works just fine.

That is what happens when you get old. 😀
 
To be honest, 90% of my electronic flash "work" is done with a tiny Sunpak Auto 140 very similar to your Vivitar; it's just more convenient to carry around than the "proper" units. It has a trigger voltage of 44.5v, so still too high for your ZM, but it doesn't faze any of my old mechanical LTM cameras... or the M240, even.

I'm using a lot of flashbulbs these days, though. Can't remember what the trigger voltage on a CEYOO is, but I know it's probably not recommended for anything with electronics!
 
I started using flashbulbs with my Graflex several years ago and still do from time to time when I am doing studio style photography but, like you said, flash bulbs really aren't appropriate for family style photos I am trying to do this evening. For quick and dirty photography using a rangefinder camera you really don't want to drag out the studio lights. Those little electronic flash units from the 70s and 80s are ideal.

Maybe I should have held onto the M3.
 
I quite like the smaller flashbulbs (PF1Bs and the like) to replace on-camera electronic flash but with a lot more power... lets me use slower film with less hassle (as long as I can do the guide number maths quickly enough). Bigger No. 5s or Press 25s or focal-plane bulbs are very much a situational thing, though. I tried using a Press 25 at a halloween party last weekend and just blinded everyone, so yeah, an electronic flash definitely would have been the better option there!


Anyway, looking at my notes, my "proper" electronic flash, a Vivitar Zoom Thyristor 2500 - which is a bit bigger than your model, but not so large it feels ridiculous - comes in at 11.5v. That might be an option. Of course, auto thyistor flashes are so cheap you could just grab a few and test them with a multimeter until you find the perfect combination of size and trigger voltage for the ZM. The Safe Sync would definitely be the easier option, though.
 
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