Light Meter: what do I do with an EV readout?

[Rob MacKillop]

Just bought the Sekonic Twinmate L-208. Simple to use. I have no problem with it, but I'm wondering what to do with the EV readout.

Set to ASA 400, light readout gives 250 @ f5.6, EV = 13

My Monochrom Typ 246 has EV adjustments from minus 3 to plus 3, so EV = 13 has me confused. I have 'slow days' where nothing makes much sense. This is one of those days. Enlighten me, please. The instruction manual is entirely in Chinese.

 

[Bill Blackwell]

Try Google ...

 

[Cascadilla]

Just bought the Sekonic Twinmate L-208. Simple to use. I have no problem with it, but I'm wondering what to do with the EV readout.

Set to ASA 400, light readout gives 250 @ f5.6, EV = 13

My Monochrom Typ 246 has EV adjustments from minus 3 to plus 3, so EV = 13 has me confused. I have 'slow days' where nothing makes much sense. This is one of those days. Enlighten me, please. The instruction manual is entirely in Chinese.

You could just ignore the EV numbers. These are a vestige of 1950's technology when camera makers decided that it would be easier to set one number instead of two (f/stops and shutter speeds).

 

[Rob MacKillop]

I did try google. Thanks for your comment.

Cascadilla - thanks for that. Useful. I can cope with ignoring it.

 

[Bill Blackwell]

I did try google. Thanks for your comment.

Cascadilla - thanks for that. Useful. I can cope with ignoring it.

Yes, so did I. I provided you with a link to my first hit, which is the long answer to what Cascadilla said.

 

[JeffS7444]

EV readout is very helpful if you are using older Hasselblad C-lenses, with their interconnected shutter and aperture rings: You simply dial in the EV indicated, and rotating the combined rings gives you all possible shutter/aperture combinations to achieve that exposure value.

But digital Leica M cameras (and most other cameras for that matter) do not offer direct EV input, hence you need to translate EV into shutter speed/ISO/aperture.

The +/- 3 EV dial on your camera is used for exposure compensation, and as such, those are relative, not absolute, values, and don't directly correspond to the readings from your light meter.

 

[Rob MacKillop]

EV readout is very helpful if you are using older Hasselblad C-lenses, with their interconnected shutter and aperture rings: You simply dial in the EV indicated, and rotating the combined rings gives you all possible shutter/aperture combinations to achieve that exposure value.

But digital Leica M cameras (and most other cameras for that matter) do not offer direct EV input, hence you need to translate EV into shutter speed/ISO/aperture.

The +/- 3 EV dial on your camera is used for exposure compensation, and as such, those are relative, not absolute, values, and don't directly correspond to the readings from your light meter.

I appreciate your comments, Jeff. Much appreciated.

 

[Rob MacKillop]

Try Google ...

Sorry, Bill. I didn’t notice that was a hyperlink.

 

[skahde]

If you own and use a Hasselblad, you set the EV-number on the lens and then turn the coupled aperture/shutterspeed-ring for your desired combination. In this case I thought it was really usefull.

 

[Richard G]

EV is exposure value. It isn’t necessary to work with it, but very handy with old Zeiss cameras and with Hasselblad lenses where you set the EV on the lens. EV has an absolute light value. EV 15 corresponds to 100 ISO 125s at f16. But if you need a faster shutter speed all the corresponding exposures are set already and you rotate the interlocked shutter speed/aperture dials as one to 1/500s and the correct aperture is already locked to that speed, f8. In the later CF Hasselblad lenses the interlock is no longer the default, but pressing a button locks aperture and shutter speed together again to change both as with the C lenses. If your ‘maths’ is shaky it’s important not to link Sunny 16 exposure calculations to EV, as EV 15 corresponds to 1/ISO s and f16.

 

[jc031699]

Ah that’s cool!
So it fits with Sunny 16, since full sun is 1/500 and f16 for iso 400 = EV 15. And it seems each EV unit is equivalent to 1 stop of exposure.

 

[ped]

My Aires 35iiiC uses EV numbers on the lens to give a variety of shutter/aperture combinations. It's a brilliant system, it makes it very easy to judge a scene and see the available options. I love it - but came across it by accident, like you, albeit with a camera rather than a meter.

 

[raydm6]

I loved the EV interlock system on my Zeiss CF lenses when I had my Hasselblad system. I was using a Gossen Luna Pro SBC (still have it) and it was very convenient transferring the EV reading (after nulling the needle) from the meter to the lens/camera.

My Rolleicord Vb (Type 2) also has an EV interlock.

 

[Richard G]

I loved the EV interlock system on my Zeiss CF lenses when I had my Hasellblad system. I was using a Gossen Luna Pro SBC (still have it) and it was very convenient transferring the EV reading (after nulling the needle) from the meter to the lens/camera.

My Rolleicord Vb (Type 2) also has an EV interlock.

The LunaPro SBC zero adjusting meter is brilliant. The leather case is like something to protect it from a fifty foot slide down a mountain scree.

 

[Cascadilla]

I loved the EV interlock system on my Zeiss CF lenses when I had my Hasellblad system. I was using a Gossen Luna Pro SBC (still have it) and it was very convenient transferring the EV reading (after nulling the needle) from the meter to the lens/camera.

My Rolleicord Vb (Type 2) also has an EV interlock.

To each his own: the first thing I did when I got my Rolleiflex 3.5 E was to uncouple the EV interlock. I had never had on another camera before and found it annoying. YMMV.

 

[Richard G]

To each his own: the first thing I did when I got my Rolleiflex 3.5 E was to uncouple the EV interlock. I had never had on another camera before and found it annoying. YMMV.

I agree. I have one C lens for the Hasselblad and just pulling the aperture ring back to change aperture only is disconcerting treatment of precious equipment till you get used to it.

 

[ped]

I loved the EV interlock system on my Zeiss CF lenses when I had my Hasellblad system. I was using a Gossen Luna Pro SBC (still have it) and it was very convenient transferring the EV reading (after nulling the needle) from the meter to the lens/camera.

My Rolleicord Vb (Type 2) also has an EV interlock.

I use a Weston Master V which has a numerical scale to transfer to the exposure wheel. Apparently the number is nominal and only makes sense when used against the index but in fact it’s linked to the EV - so for 400 speed film I simply add 3 and get the correct number. Very convenient and easier to remember as a starting point. As it gets lighter or darker I simply go up or down a couple of EV and I’m set for the day, generally.