dmr
Registered Abuser
Well, the weatherguessers are saying "sunny-16" this weekend, so I am gonna give it another shot with the TLR and shoot this other roll.
Hopefully I keep in mind last week's lessons, such as wind the film after each shot {blush}, pay attention when composing, watch the verticals, etc.
I do want to play a bit more with dusk and night shots. Those are the ones that impressed me the most, actually.
I'm very spoiled with the convenience of the 35mm cameras. I'm in the habit of shooting 3-4 frames at a time, varying the angle, distance, etc. I'll also shoot 2-3 for the slow handheld ones, in case I move on one of them. With the TLR I don't have this luxury, I have to wait for the decisive moment and make one shot count.
The total time it takes to make one exposure with the TLR seems to be longer. It's less of a spur of the moment thing, at least for me right now.
The more I think of it, the more I think this is gonna be a "special occasion" camera, like when I really need to have the larger negative. Also, when I feel the extra expense is justified. All things considered, it's about 3 times the cost per shot as it is with 35mm.
Hopefully I keep in mind last week's lessons, such as wind the film after each shot {blush}, pay attention when composing, watch the verticals, etc.
I do want to play a bit more with dusk and night shots. Those are the ones that impressed me the most, actually.
I'm very spoiled with the convenience of the 35mm cameras. I'm in the habit of shooting 3-4 frames at a time, varying the angle, distance, etc. I'll also shoot 2-3 for the slow handheld ones, in case I move on one of them. With the TLR I don't have this luxury, I have to wait for the decisive moment and make one shot count.
The total time it takes to make one exposure with the TLR seems to be longer. It's less of a spur of the moment thing, at least for me right now.
The more I think of it, the more I think this is gonna be a "special occasion" camera, like when I really need to have the larger negative. Also, when I feel the extra expense is justified. All things considered, it's about 3 times the cost per shot as it is with 35mm.
Xmas
Veteran
dmr
A TLR is difficult to use if you treat it like a 35mm. A plate 5x4 with bulb flash more so.
Noel
A TLR is difficult to use if you treat it like a 35mm. A plate 5x4 with bulb flash more so.
Noel
payasam
a.k.a. Mukul Dube
I used a Rolleicord for about two decades, but on too many rolls I proved that the thing did nothing to prevent double exposures -- or blank frames.
dmr
Registered Abuser
payasam said:I used a Rolleicord for about two decades, but on too many rolls I proved that the thing did nothing to prevent double exposures -- or blank frames.
I learned that the hard way.
Now going way back into another life, my dad always immediately wound the film after each shot. CLICK-wind. I don't ever remember him getting a double-exposure, or else he hid them well.
That's part of this learning curve. CLICK-wind CLICK-wind CLICK-wind.
BillBingham2
Registered User
Motors were the best thing to happen to Kodak in the early 70's. Depending upon which TLR you have, you can do some fast CLICK-wind-Click-winds but I never really got into it. Even though I had all the film and processing I could use when I was in High School, I followed more the HCB approach of the Decisive Moment and shooting one, perhaps two shots. The second shot was from a different perspective. While I have winders and motors for every camera I can, I rarely use them and when I do, it's not in the AK-47 approach (splatter everything that moves and you hope to get something).
I never used the TLRs enought to get frustrated with the speed of handling. I kind of enjoyed the slowness and need to think over the entire 6x6 screen. On the other hand, I had double exposure prevention built in and a BIG Honeywell flash gun when I needed to add some light.
My best night shots were all done in 6x6, no clue as to why, it just gave better negatives than my 35mms.
B2 (;->
I never used the TLRs enought to get frustrated with the speed of handling. I kind of enjoyed the slowness and need to think over the entire 6x6 screen. On the other hand, I had double exposure prevention built in and a BIG Honeywell flash gun when I needed to add some light.
My best night shots were all done in 6x6, no clue as to why, it just gave better negatives than my 35mms.
B2 (;->
rolleistef
Well-known
A TLR is a very fast camera for street photography thanks to the size of the viewfinder. With a bit of training, you frame automatically, most of the time people would look at you and at this moment, click! Out of 12 frames I get 100% of good exposure and focus and about 7 or 8 that are worth printing and 2 that are considered as "outstanding". Try to do the same with a RF or (worse! ohh don't excommuniate me!) an SLR!
Fotch
Man with a RF Camera
"35mm cameras. I'm in the habit of shooting 3-4 frames at a time, varying the angle, distance, etc. I'll also shoot 2-3 for the slow handheld ones, in case I move on one of them. With the TLR I don't have this luxury, I have to wait for the decisive moment and make one shot count."
You will learn to "think and shoot" rather than "shoot and hope",.. that is by shooting a bunch you will get something. When I started shooting with a 4x5, it really made me think, plan, reflect. It may sound like this is slow however, its not. You just know what you want so even shooting 35mm, I no longer take the machine gun approach, rather, more like a sniper, focusing in on the real picture I am after.
Sort of like the pilot of the plane vs. the passengers, they all get there at the same time but only the pilot knows how.
Good Luck with TLR. Great cameras, can do almost everything you will ever want.
You will learn to "think and shoot" rather than "shoot and hope",.. that is by shooting a bunch you will get something. When I started shooting with a 4x5, it really made me think, plan, reflect. It may sound like this is slow however, its not. You just know what you want so even shooting 35mm, I no longer take the machine gun approach, rather, more like a sniper, focusing in on the real picture I am after.
Sort of like the pilot of the plane vs. the passengers, they all get there at the same time but only the pilot knows how.
Good Luck with TLR. Great cameras, can do almost everything you will ever want.
payasam
a.k.a. Mukul Dube
While there generally are fewer chancy exposures with a TLR, as a function of the short film loads and the care that tends to be given to each frame, it would not be quite right to call it a slow camera. I have seen people using TLRs to photograph events such as press conferences, demonstrations and weddings, and they were by no means slow. This is true also of MF SLRs like Hasselblads, although there were always fewer of those around.
JCT
Established
I purchased a Rolleiflex 3.5E3 last December and have really enjoyed re-learning my approach. Definitely more thoughtful and contemplative -- not to mention having to use a hand-held meter again. I've stuck with B&W so far and developed my own so the costs have been pretty minimal, a nice way to learn. I found that I enjoyed it so much that I went ahead and purchased a Shen-Hao 4x5 field camera (thanks, in part to some advice from Xray on these forums).
In March I discovered yet another advantage to using my TLR. It made my digital SLR shooting *much* better! Go figure. I was shooting a ballet performance in absolutely dreadful light with no flash allowed (spent the whole time cursing the lighting director under my breath). I had been shooting the TLR all winter and my ability to assess light and exposure was improving -- I ended up doing the entire ballet shoot on manual and I have *never* had such a high keeper ratio. Usually I cull brutally after a shoot like that, but my improving skills really showed themselves.
So keep at it and you'll learn to appreciate this new approach!
JT
In March I discovered yet another advantage to using my TLR. It made my digital SLR shooting *much* better! Go figure. I was shooting a ballet performance in absolutely dreadful light with no flash allowed (spent the whole time cursing the lighting director under my breath). I had been shooting the TLR all winter and my ability to assess light and exposure was improving -- I ended up doing the entire ballet shoot on manual and I have *never* had such a high keeper ratio. Usually I cull brutally after a shoot like that, but my improving skills really showed themselves.
So keep at it and you'll learn to appreciate this new approach!
JT
SCOTFORTHLAD
Slow learner,but keen!
For some reason I too forgot my 'wind-on after shooting' habit ,with the first roll through my recently purchased Yashica D.
I can only assume that the excitement of a really nice camera was the reason for three double exposures out of the twelve.
Only a temporary failing --I hope.
Brian.
I can only assume that the excitement of a really nice camera was the reason for three double exposures out of the twelve.
Only a temporary failing --I hope.
Brian.
clarence
ダメ
I do not wind on after I shoot because I do not wish to damage the shutter mechanism, should I choose not to shoot and leave the shutter cocked for too long (and by this, I mean hours). Am I mistaken in this precautionary measure?
Clarence
Clarence
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reub2000
Established
I wouldn't really consider a TLR to be that much slower than a 35mm camera. 12 frames means that you have to be more selective, but I don't think 12 frames is very limiting.
Chyn
Established
dmr, I use my TLR primarily for candids, landscapes and I'm just starting out with shooting street. I find that I have to be a more deliberate and choosy when shooting with a TLR. Like any other camera, it takes awhile to learn its quirks and appreciate its strengths.
I find that anticipation is really key. For candid shots at a single event, I'll just have aperture, shutter speed all set and just rove around looking for good moments.
Also, with a TLR, people in general seem to be more relaxed around them or don't usually notice that they are being photographed. I found that many people tense up automatically whenever I bring 35mm SLR or rangefinder towards my face.
I find that anticipation is really key. For candid shots at a single event, I'll just have aperture, shutter speed all set and just rove around looking for good moments.
Also, with a TLR, people in general seem to be more relaxed around them or don't usually notice that they are being photographed. I found that many people tense up automatically whenever I bring 35mm SLR or rangefinder towards my face.
Leigh Youdale
Well-known
Keep at it! I used to have a Yashicamat (poor man's Rolleiflex) which I regret selling but eventually the sheer size and weight was a disincentive to carry it around as much as I should have. But the focussing and composition using the ground glass screen is wonderful. You can see exactly what the negative is going to give you!
I nearly bought another one on EBay a week or so back, but remembering why i sold it in the first place I resisted and got out my folding Perkeo 6x6 instead. That one goes in my pocket!
I nearly bought another one on EBay a week or so back, but remembering why i sold it in the first place I resisted and got out my folding Perkeo 6x6 instead. That one goes in my pocket!
dmr
Registered Abuser
clarence said:I do not wind on after I shoot because I do not wish to damage the shutter mechanism, should I choose not to shoot and leave the shutter cocked for too long (and by this, I mean hours). Am I mistaken in this precautionary measure?
Well, on this one, anyway, the shutter and the winder are independent. I'm used to the usual 35mm thing of wind and cock shutter with the lever. Usually I don't wind until I am ready to shoot.
I was going to try yesterday, but I was running late and took the film but forgot the camera. (I guess I'm going prematurely blonde.)
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