10.5cm Nikkor-P F2.5

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nomadia

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Hi all,

I picked up this lens based on what I read here in RFF which was often described as 'legendary' though 'heavy.' Everything looks perfect about the lens--glass looks clear, focusing through the lens body is smooth. When mounted on the camera body and using the focusing wheel however, the focusing is very stiff. Will this be an easy fix? In your experience using this lens, do you focus through the wheel or the lens body?

Thank you for the help.

Bonn
 
I don't think it is recommended to focus using the wheel for any lenses which use the outer bayonet. It causes too much strain on the mechanism.
Nathan
 
I am intending to buy one of these one day so that I can overhaul it and post it on richardhaw.com :eek::eek::eek:

This is a legendary optic and I can vouch for these lenses as far as F-mount versions go. I am not sure if it is the same Sonnar-like formula as the early 10.5cm for the F-mount. I read somewhere in the Nikon1001 nights that it is or am I mistaking that for the 13.5cm/3.5:bang:
 
nhchen said:
I don't think it is recommended to focus using the wheel for any lenses which use the outer bayonet. It causes too much strain on the mechanism.
Nathan
Click to expand...

It is geared, with a very significant reduction that way around. So no, that should not matter, if all components run smoothly - indeed the other way around might place more strain on the mechanism.

However, you should not use the respective other focusing mechanism whenever one of them is binding - the gear box is not strong enough to force semi-stuck parts. If the lens does not focus smoothly, avoid the wheel, and if the wheel mechanism is binding, don't focus by lens!
 
richardHaw said:
I am not sure if it is the same Sonnar-like formula as the early 10.5cm for the F-mount.
Click to expand...

It is the exact same. But the later double-Gauss formula 105mm f/2.5 for the F-mount (all versions until the late Ai-S one) is noticeably sharper and even has a much nicer bokeh.
 
Highway 61 said:
It is the exact same. But the later double-Gauss formula 105mm f/2.5 for the F-mount (all versions until the late Ai-S one) is noticeably sharper and even has a much nicer bokeh.
Click to expand...

Thanks for confirming!

I actually prefer the Sonnar's character. I am no expert but the falloff from what's in focus to what's not is smoother with the Sonnar as far as I can see when using both on the D750's 24MP sensor. I like the Gauss one,too but there is an intangible quality about the Sonnar's images that I cannot point my finger to. :eek::eek::eek: the same observation (by me) can also be observed with the Nikkor-Q 135/2.8 and the later version (K and later). All of the mentioned optical formulas are awesome by the way and I love them all.

Maybe I should do a test one of these days comparing the 4 major variants for the F-mount. I still do not have a digital back for my S-mount lenses as I do not have a mirrorless Sony FF camera.
 
Internal mount 5cm/50mm lenses and some external mount wides are ok (you have no choice but to use the focus wheel with the W-Nikkor 2.5cm F4!), but I've never handled a telephoto S-mount lens with a focus action light enough to enable focusing with the focus wheel. Unless you feel like cutting up your right index finger that is! Just too much grease to fight against and too much weight to move around.
 
sevo said:
It is geared, with a very significant reduction that way around. So no, that should not matter, if all components run smoothly - indeed the other way around might place more strain on the mechanism.

However, you should not use the respective other focusing mechanism whenever one of them is binding - the gear box is not strong enough to force semi-stuck parts. If the lens does not focus smoothly, avoid the wheel, and if the wheel mechanism is binding, don't focus by lens!
Click to expand...

I talked to somebody on FB and he had his saw-tooth gear replaced once.:eek::eek::eek:
 
it looks good on the field
74d54a8e4c5cca077dcc6ffc7ce8fb24.jpg
 
Looks good! ^

I have all three Nikon telephotos (85, 105 and 135) and don't use the focusing wheel for any of them. They focus just fine the "regular" way, by turning the barrel.
 
I have one of these made for Contax and Zeiss always recommended that anything longer than 50 mm should be focused with the lens focusing ring rather than the wheel. I would assume the same for any Nikon RF since the design is so similar. Great lens, by the way.
 
Highway 61 said:
It is the exact same. But the later double-Gauss formula 105mm f/2.5 for the F-mount (all versions until the late Ai-S one) is noticeably sharper and even has a much nicer bokeh.
Click to expand...

The Double Gauss 5/4 was indeed developed later for the F mount but for the first few years the F mount lens was the Sonnar 5/3 design as noted above.

120101 - 153462 -
155001 - 172697 -
194011 - 221768 -
234011 - 286276 -
Various changes in these but the formula remained constant.
All these are easily distinguished by the silver barrel and silver front.
An interesting difference with the RF lenses is they had 10 blades the early F had 9 and later, still Sonnar, had 6.

http://www.photosynthesis.co.nz/nikon/lenses.html#105
 
You have to hold the camera by the lens with your left hand anyway because it is so heavy, so you might as well focus with that hand as well!
 
just overhauled this lens. I will say that this lens is very prone to the heavy focusing problem. mine is newly overhauled and feels rather damped still but much better than how it was originally. In fact, even when dry the helicoid feels rather heavy. one of the reason behind that is the lens is build with heavy brass and some of the parts were too thick than what's needed.:eek::eek::eek:
 
by the way, I actually got one for sale here, don't know how much the going rate for these are :eek::eek::eek:

ebay says $250-300 USD, is this accurate?
 
Nikkor-PC 2.5-105mm ltm

Nikkor-PC 2.5-105mm ltm

richardHaw said:
by the way, I actually got one for sale here, don't know how much the going rate for these are :eek::eek::eek:

ebay says $250-300 USD, is this accurate?
Click to expand...


Yours should be a well preserved copy for this price.
I think a realistic price depends firstly on the condition of the individual lenses and secondly, whether it fits perfectly to the rangefinder camera.
Thirdly, the external appearance of the lens is important and fourth, whether the original lens hood and lens caps are included.
A special point is the extremely rare external viewfinder, which is sometimes more expensive than a well maintained Nikkor-PC 2.5-105mm ltm.
 
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