1st time Developing Black and White

[Creagerj]

I've decided that I want to try developing my own B+W film. I know that I need a developing tank and reel. Also I know I need a developer, stop bath, and a fixer. Any recomendations for which developer, stop bath, fixer combo I should use or does it really matter. I shoot a lot of ilford hp5 and a little fp4, sometimes some tmax 100 and 400. Any other tips would be helpful. I'm just developing not printing.

 

[Ash]

make sure you buy..

-a film tank that allows 2x35mm and will do 1x120film - its a lot easier when you can do 2 at a time
-a changing bag as well, as big as possible
-2 or 3 600ml measuring cylinders and a 50/100ml measurer too

I use generic dev/stop/fix, and my pictures are fine.

hope that helps somehow!

 

[LazyHammock]

As far as chemicals go; Ilford DD-X, stop bath and Ilford Rapid Fixer are all easy to work with and will have all the information on the bottle labels regarding times, temperatures etc.
Good luck,
Nick

 

[Fred]

Also worth checking the Ilford web site for dev time changes for temperature variations. I've used the generic chart well for both Rodinal and TMAX dev and has been pretty good.

Oh and Welcome Joe!

 

[ChrisN]

Also a thermometer - I use a cooking thermometer - much cheaper than a proper one from the camera shop.

 

[boarini2003]

Id say stick with the standard stuff. If you use HP5, I would use something easy like ID 11 or Ilfotec HC. Both very easy. For fixer, it really doesnt matter what brand or anything. Youre gonna have a lot of fun!

 

[Todd.Hanz]

all good tips, I don't shoot the films you listed but a good place to find developing times is here: http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.html
in the upper left hand side you select a film then select a developer hit go and there you have it.

Todd

 

[w3rk5]

For developer I use Kodak HC-110 cause it keep well, very easy to mix, and I can get it easily.

I use water for a stop bath.

I use Ilford Rapid Fixer for my, well........fixer.

Don't forget to get some Kodak PHOTO-FLO to prevent water spots while it dries.

 

[butch]

I waited for the old, white-headed, Diafine guy to chime in but in his absence....... Diafine is perfect for HP5+ and Tri-X. Get a Patterson plastic tank with a couple of reels and allow for a learning curve. I feel like I'm cheating when I read of the hoops and hurdles other developers require. No worry about time or temps. 20 minutes or so and you have a couple of rolls hanging from the shower curtain rod. Ilford Rapid Fix and tap water is your only added expense. honestly, I don't see how they can stay in business without the planned obsolescence of most retail merchandise. I swear, a thousand years from now some anthropologist will be running carbon dating tests on the two jugs of Diafine they find in the ruins of my cave.

 

[Bryce]

Creager-
What are your options? Is there a camera store in your area that carries B+W stuff, or are you relying on mail order? If there is, let me know... Last time I ran out of film in your neighborhood I was sunk!
Anyhow, most commonly available materials work fine. I use FP4 and Rodinal, and the results are worthwhile to me, in their own way. Starting out I wouldn't use Rodinal though, seems to require an absurd amount of tinkering to get really good results. I'd recommend HC110 as a starter, or maybe Acufine. Both give very good results with a minimum of experimentation. I can't comment on Diafine, ID11, etc. since I've never tried them. May this prove rewarding to you!

 

[Stan]

I use fp4/HP5, developed in home-brewed ID11. All the other chemistry is the standard stuff. Go by the recipe book to begin with

 

[themerinator]

What about a fixer remover??

 

[John Bragg]

Use the Ilford method and washing is a doddle. No need for Hypo clear as long as you use non hardening fixer.

http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/200629163442455.pdf

Read this, it will explain all.

 

[Buze]

I do it the easy way : Ilfotec DDX, Ilfostop, Rapid Fixer.

I recently switched from the "stock" DDX 1+4 I used when I began to a 1+9 solution that gives me pretty much the same results. I'm also happy with the times Ilford gives for all the "mainstream" films I tried so far.

These products are easily available (even my local Jessops stocks them !)

 

[SuitePhoto]

Use the Ilford method and washing is a doddle. No need for Hypo clear as long as you use non hardening fixer.

http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/200629163442455.pdf

Read this, it will explain all.

My first darkroom set-up is in the mail and I should be developing my first negs next weekend. I was planning on using the Ilford washing method after the fixer - but you mentioned that it doesn't work with fixer that has a harderner in it? I plan on using Kodak professional fixer with hardener - should I order some Hypo clear?

Thanks

 

[darkkavenger]

Developed my first roll ever (and 120!!) tonight, all was a bit approximate, bathed the HP5+ in D76 1+1 for about 8'30" (the solution was a bit above 20°C and I figured out my thermometer has gone mad -- showing +6°C at ambient temp!!) , stop bath with ilfostop, and since I had forgot about the fix bath, I used some Fomafix and did a 3 minutes fix. washed the film in cold water with some ilford wetting agent (or something like this) and now the film is proudly drying!

It took me a LONG while to get it how the 120 film worked! I was trying to fill the spiral with the paper!! :bonk: I had to use the green light to figure out! :bonk: 😉

I'm so happy!!!
there's definitely room for improvement, but it's not bad for a 1st time 🙂

 

[Nachkebia]

darkkavenger : Congrats! Just developing my delta 100 in t-max (tank is right beside me ) 🙂

 

[Nachkebia]

My turned out great! delta 100 and t-max really is working perfect!
Delta 100 Pro TMax Dev 1+9 80 12 12 12 24C

 

[darkkavenger]

congrats! my film is quietly drying. There's a part of the film that ended up veiled because I was getting so despaired with the paper problem that I turned on my green light :bang:

EDIT : Scanned a photo to test, here it is 😱 😀
(it's a bit OT since the photo was taken with a Pentacon Six and a Sonnar 180/2.8)

 

[Nachkebia]

Congrats! looking good, damn I need to get medium format 🙂