scottyb70
Well-known
Just bought a Beseler 23cII darkroom setup and tried my first printing with used and old papers from the purchase.
I really like it.
The problems I am having is getting the exposure time correctly. I did the cardboard method and move it over the paper very 2 seconds.
I had to expose most of my prints at .2 seconds and below with the Beseler Audio/Repeating Enlarging timer. The left dial is set at 2 and the lower switch is the 1x mark not the 10x mark. I have read in my book that usually prints should are exposed alot longer that what I am doing.
The picture I have provided is exposed at 1 on the left dial and .9 on the right dial and the lower switch set at 1x. The snow turned out too white and I wanted to do burning, but how can I burn at a fraction of a second. I am doing something wrong?
Here is the list of materials I used.
Film Delta 100 developed in Pmk Pyro
Prints developed in Ilford multigrade Paper Developer (timed 1 min)
Stop Kodak 30 secs
Fix Ilford 30secs sometimes 1 min.
Temp of chemical 68-70 deg F
Paper Kodak Panalure Select RC FH Glossy shows a price sticker dated 12/10/98.
I also noticed when using some Ilford papers the print darked in the developer in about 15 sec.
Any help would be appreciated.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4017/4442579105_9cdb04bcb3.jpg
I really like it.
The problems I am having is getting the exposure time correctly. I did the cardboard method and move it over the paper very 2 seconds.
I had to expose most of my prints at .2 seconds and below with the Beseler Audio/Repeating Enlarging timer. The left dial is set at 2 and the lower switch is the 1x mark not the 10x mark. I have read in my book that usually prints should are exposed alot longer that what I am doing.
The picture I have provided is exposed at 1 on the left dial and .9 on the right dial and the lower switch set at 1x. The snow turned out too white and I wanted to do burning, but how can I burn at a fraction of a second. I am doing something wrong?
Here is the list of materials I used.
Film Delta 100 developed in Pmk Pyro
Prints developed in Ilford multigrade Paper Developer (timed 1 min)
Stop Kodak 30 secs
Fix Ilford 30secs sometimes 1 min.
Temp of chemical 68-70 deg F
Paper Kodak Panalure Select RC FH Glossy shows a price sticker dated 12/10/98.
I also noticed when using some Ilford papers the print darked in the developer in about 15 sec.
Any help would be appreciated.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4017/4442579105_9cdb04bcb3.jpg
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Beemermark
Veteran
Besides what the timer says what do you guess estimate the exposure time at? You want it around 5~10 seconds. The enlarger lens has aperture stops just like your camera. Have you tried stopping the lens down?
jmcd
Well-known
As mentioned above, stop down your enlarging lens to lengthen the exposure. I would aim for around the 10 second mark.
Also, you might have a 150 watt enlarging bulb in your Beseler—a 75 would help you get longer exposures without having to stop down too far—2-3 stops from wide open is ideal.
Also, you might try a softer grade of paper to get the detail you are looking for in your snow.
Also, you might have a 150 watt enlarging bulb in your Beseler—a 75 would help you get longer exposures without having to stop down too far—2-3 stops from wide open is ideal.
Also, you might try a softer grade of paper to get the detail you are looking for in your snow.
jmcd
Well-known
Also, try lengthening the time in the developer to a standard of closer to two minutes, especially if you are using fiber based paper.
scottyb70
Well-known
I forgot to mention I did stop down the lens to f 11 or f8. The bulb is a PH 140 GE 75 w. I didn't try the developer at 2 min because I was getting total black at 1 min. I noticed the darklight bulb was too bright because I replaced a 15w in the premier safelight with a 60 clear bulb and it burnt the red lens. This may have attributed to it. So I was doing it in the dark. The pic you see was done in total darkness.
I also exposed at 2 sec 4 sec up to 10sec and got a total black exposure on the print except for the 2 sec exposure. I plan on ordering more paper from Freestyle. Could you recommend a good value alternative to the Ilford and Kodak. I was using the Ilford multigrade iv deluxe MGD .1m and liked the thickness.
I used a kodak polymax fine - art FS Glossy single weight and didn't like how the exposure printed out and it was too flimsy. I just noticed it was a fiber based paper. Developed this @ 1min.
Does anyone know if the Beseler 23Cii will do 6 x9 film?
I also exposed at 2 sec 4 sec up to 10sec and got a total black exposure on the print except for the 2 sec exposure. I plan on ordering more paper from Freestyle. Could you recommend a good value alternative to the Ilford and Kodak. I was using the Ilford multigrade iv deluxe MGD .1m and liked the thickness.
I used a kodak polymax fine - art FS Glossy single weight and didn't like how the exposure printed out and it was too flimsy. I just noticed it was a fiber based paper. Developed this @ 1min.
Does anyone know if the Beseler 23Cii will do 6 x9 film?
Fawley
Well-known
I agree with the previous points about using a longer exposure time and using a lower wattage bulb to get there. Also, are you stopping down your enlarger lense?
I use an even longer exposure time than has been suggested, usually at least 30 secs. The reason for the longer time is to make it easier to allow time for burning and dodging if that is needed. I also find it easier to accurately hone in on just the right exposure time. I used to use the exposure step method to find the right time but I find it frustrating because different areas of the picture will of course look different anyway. With practise, I found that I could usually guess the brightness level on the easel that would need a 30 sec exposure and I adjust to that with aperture control. I then use only one or two decent size test prints to get me to just the right exposure.
Also, as an earlier poster pointed out, it is important to give your print the recommended development time to ensure that you develop a full range of tones. Ilford gives information on their website. You are using older nonIlford paper so you may have to experiment a bit, but the print should be able to stand 2 minutes in the developer even if it doesn't need it. Paper isn't as sensitive as film to age problems, but I suggest you buy some new paper until you gain some confidence. One last thing. Be sure to gently agitate the print constantly by gently rocking the tray.
I use an even longer exposure time than has been suggested, usually at least 30 secs. The reason for the longer time is to make it easier to allow time for burning and dodging if that is needed. I also find it easier to accurately hone in on just the right exposure time. I used to use the exposure step method to find the right time but I find it frustrating because different areas of the picture will of course look different anyway. With practise, I found that I could usually guess the brightness level on the easel that would need a 30 sec exposure and I adjust to that with aperture control. I then use only one or two decent size test prints to get me to just the right exposure.
Also, as an earlier poster pointed out, it is important to give your print the recommended development time to ensure that you develop a full range of tones. Ilford gives information on their website. You are using older nonIlford paper so you may have to experiment a bit, but the print should be able to stand 2 minutes in the developer even if it doesn't need it. Paper isn't as sensitive as film to age problems, but I suggest you buy some new paper until you gain some confidence. One last thing. Be sure to gently agitate the print constantly by gently rocking the tray.
payasam
a.k.a. Mukul Dube
Fresh paper and chemicals, a proper safelight, full development: these are essentials. I would generally have an exposure time of around 30 seconds (10" by 8" or larger) to permit comfortable dodging and burning-in.
Freakscene
Obscure member
Paper Kodak Panalure Select RC FH Glossy is a panchromatic paper designed for making B&W prints from colour negatives. Use a regular B&W printing paper and you'll get more predictable results. It's also designed to be used in complete darkness not with a safelight, so you did the right thing there.
If I remember right about that timer, I think your exposures are 2 seconds not 0.2 s. You can use a neutral density filter but that is in the ballpark i would expect with the Panalure paper - Kodak says 4.5 s @ f 11 is about 'normal'. You can also put a sheet of diffusing material in the light path somewhere. remember that stopping down more will introduce softness from diffraction.
Marty
If I remember right about that timer, I think your exposures are 2 seconds not 0.2 s. You can use a neutral density filter but that is in the ballpark i would expect with the Panalure paper - Kodak says 4.5 s @ f 11 is about 'normal'. You can also put a sheet of diffusing material in the light path somewhere. remember that stopping down more will introduce softness from diffraction.
Marty
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