2 Questions about 2 Minolota Film Slrs

JeremyLangford

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I'm trying to decide on a camera for my high-school film photography class but I have some questions first.

First off. Here is a Minolta srt 201.

The shutter speed goes from 1000th to 1 sec as you can see in this picture.

4pvwopy.jpg


Im used to have up to a 30 second shutter on my dads 30d to use for a slow shutter shot.

Is there just no way to use a slower shutter than one second on this camera? I see that there is also a "Bulb" mode, but how in the world would I be able to know how long of an exposure is needed when in "Bulb" mode?

Second. Here is a Minolra xg1.

The shutter speed is also 1000th to 1 second and a "Bulb" mode.

5xe2sz6.jpg


This camera has an aperture priority mode and also a manual mode.

However, The camera's light meter only works when in aperture priority.

Does this mean that the only way to set the shutter manually is to have your own seperate light meter?

Also, does this mean that I still can't have a slower shutter than 1 second? Id really like to be able to shoot a 30 second shutter shot sometime.
 
My honest advice to you is to have a look at the Pentax K1000 or something like an olympus om1 or om2.
I'm not a huge fan of early minolta SLRs, they just seem very.... primitive. I know other people on this forum do like them though. Perhaps an early Nikon would serve quite well as well. That thing with the light meter not working in manual mode - scary. Would be annoying to use.
 
Sorry, just putting forward an opinion back there. I can try help out though:
With the srt 201, theres no way to get a slower mode besides using the bulb setting. For that you will need a cable release, and to time it somehow. You can just use a stopwatch but it's not all that accurate.

On the xg1 I have no experience, but usually on cameras with an auto aperture priority mode, they are able to go for much longer than the indicated 1 second in the viewfinder/on the shutter speed dial. For instance my om2n can go for a very long time - a matter of minutes in fact. I haven't pushed it to see where the limit of the Av priority is.
With the lightmeter only working in aperture priority, some people use that mode to meter in and then switch back to manual and apply the reading.
 
fdigital said:
Sorry, just putting forward an opinion back there. I can try help out though:
With the srt 201, theres no way to get a slower mode besides using the bulb setting. For that you will need a cable release, and to time it somehow. You can just use a stopwatch but it's not all that accurate.

On the xg1 I have no experience, but usually on cameras with an auto aperture priority mode, they are able to go for much longer than the indicated 1 second in the viewfinder/on the shutter speed dial. For instance my om2n can go for a very long time - a matter of minutes in fact. I haven't pushed it to see where the limit of the Av priority is.
With the lightmeter only working in aperture priority, some people use that mode to meter in and then switch back to manual and apply the reading.

Oh ok. That makes sense.

I just wish there that the light meter showed a better range of shutter speeds. Oh well though.
 
I have an XG9 and yes if you want to use manual mode you would need to have and extra lightmeter or switch from aperture priority back to manual...its not a practicle solution!

Are you restricted to just these 2 specific Minolta models?
 
The SRT's were considered good cameras at the time they were new. Pickup a lightmeter on ebay, I got one for USD 10 and use a release on B mode.

Cheers
 
I am not restricted to these 2 modes.

I am restricted to Minolta however, and I am only going to buy a camera with a DOF preview.

The SRT 201 seems like a good choice because it does have a DOF preview and I think I would enjoy learning film on a fully manual.

If you use an f/16 or even smaller in a dark area with a SRT 201, does it just force the camera into "bulb" mode?

Would I have to have a seperate light meter for any picture with a shutter slower than 1 sec?
 
To use the SRT201 in Bulb, just set it to B.

F8 with iso100 film indoors at night will require a longer than 1 sec shutter speed.

A X-700 or X-570 is a better choice and shouldn't be too hard to find. Both have DOF preview, Aperture priority mode, full manual mode and very bright VF's. Both will keep the shutter open for about 4 secs in A mode.
 
The SRT 201 doesn't have auto exposure, so camera has no say in what shutter speed is used. It can only recommend exposure settings.

Like the others have said here, if you want anything longer than 1 second, you'll need a release cable and a stopwatch (or you can simply guess). Once you get to 30 seconds, you have to factor in reciprocity failure. And once you get to 30 seconds, missing your exposure by one or two seconds isn't going to make that much difference.
 
I second the recommendation on an X700. If you haven't committed yet to the SRT, you might give the X700 a serious look. Also check out the rokkorfiles homepage for more detailed info on Minolta film camera models.
 
If you're taking a class to learn how to use a camera and take decently exposed photos then a totally manual camera is the way to go...as far as exposure beyond 1 second put the camera in "B" or bulb mode and use a locking cable release...you can count out the time or use a watch...
 
I "third" the X-700 recommendation, though you might consider a X-570 which has a nice metered manual mode. The main reason for getting a X-700 is the really good TTL flash metering. It has DOF preview, and will (like my XG-1) work in near total darkness in AE mode. Exposures over a few seconds should be done in "B" mode anyway due to reciprocity failure (which you'll learn about).

I thought about getting a SRT a while back but decided against it because compared to a X-700, a SRT is bigger, heavier, and older; it doesn't have AE (never mind "P" mode), and it is far less capable with a flash. "Desirable" SRTs (e.g. late model SRT-201s) in nice condition are also more expensive than X-series bodies. I'd avoid any of the XG-series bodies.

If I was in your shoes, I'd get one of the X-700 + f/1.4 50mm kits KEH has right now. BGN condition will run you all of $88.00! I paid more than that for my X-700 body alone and felt like I got a good deal. Add a 28mm lens for fifty bucks or less and a 135mm for another thirty or forty clams, and you'll be ready for almost any situation. If you need flash (and there are times you will), another twenty bucks will get you a Sunpak 433D. I have one, and it works great. (I love the 1980s paparazzi vibe I get with that flash plus a Motor Drive 1 and 70-210mm zoom on my X-700. Sure, it weighs five pounds but I look cool. Or maybe not.)

Check it out here. I can't seem to post a complete link -- just look in the "Camera Store" section under "Minolta Manual Focus".

Minoltas are a great bargain. I like them so much I bought one of their rangefinder bodies, too. :)
 
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Sorry I take your thoughts different way. I don't think you can see any difference between 25 or 35 sec exposure time. So, use B and any timer available. Take into account the film response curve in use and double your exposure metered handheld. Either way you will want to adjust for better exposure next time. Camera brand has nothing in this equation
 
I will also say the X series

but on my end, I will suggest the X-370, smaller body, great handling, its AE but does meter in manual mode as well ... also an incredible viewfinder, my favorite of any manual focus SLR I have used

I have the 50mm 1.7 MC Rokkor, the 28mm 2.8 Rokkor X, and 135mm 2.8 Rokkor that I noticed is going on KEH for only 40 bucks .... the 50mm is surprisingly sharp and amazing out of focus characteristics
 
A couple of thoughts, first off, the SRT is an excellent camera. Every bit the match of the advanced amateur fully manual lines from Nikon, Canon, Pentax, Olympus....... from the 1970s. All of the companies made very good cameras, don't give credence to anyone who tells you different, they are just talking cosmetics and personal taste.

That 201 has a self timer, mirror lock up, speeds from 1-1/1000s (not many from the 70s will have different), DOF preview, it is an excellent choice for a high school photography class.

Regarding the X-700 and X-570, the 570 is better to use in manual mode, the 700 meter readout will suggest the correct aperture, but not show you the setting you have selected, you have to remove the camera from your eye to check, the 570 displays it in the finder. If you can do without the full program mode and live with just Aperture Priority, the 570 uses the same electronics as the 700, with the advantage of a few more years of refinement. I have read that the improvement in the electronic systems of the 570 from the 700 were significant, though the function may not be that different.

I have no experience with the X-370, but I am sure it is along the same lines as the 700 and 570, but again, newer.

If you are to go with Minoltas, they are great cameras and I am guessing you know they offer as full a line of lenses and accessories as any other brand.

Enjoy.
 
nikon_sam said:
If you're taking a class to learn how to use a camera and take decently exposed photos then a totally manual camera is the way to go...


I agree. I would love to have a full-manual.

The thing is, Its really hard for me to find out details about these cameras because they are so old, but you guys are definately helping with that.

Here are the must-haves.

Depth Of Field Preview.
Full Manual Mode that is metered.
A good battery (I read something yesterday about Minoltas having Mercury batteries that are illegal now)
Self-Timer

Is it possible to get a Manual or AP mode that when set to a very small aperture in a dark situation, it will automatically use the correct shutter which may be up to 30 seconds long?

If not then I will have settle with buying a light-meter and stop-watch.
 
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fdigital said:
My honest advice to you is to have a look at the Pentax K1000 or something like an olympus om1 or om2.
I'm not a huge fan of early minolta SLRs, they just seem very.... primitive. I know other people on this forum do like them though. Perhaps an early Nikon would serve quite well as well. That thing with the light meter not working in manual mode - scary. Would be annoying to use.

I have to disagree with you here. The SRT's aren't "primitive" in my opinion; they came with several very nice features, are built well, and the glass is friggin' DIRT CHEAP these days. (I picked up a Rokkor 50/1.7 in fine shape for nine bucks.)

The K1000--not knocking it, it's a fine camera--doesn't do anything slower than a 1 sec exposure either. It also doesn't have MLU, nor DOF preview, both of which are present on the SRT.

Just my $.02...
 
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