spyder2000
Dim Bulb
One thing I didn't see any reference to above (not saying it isn't there, just that I missed it if it is) is that, in general, internal camera meters operate only within a specified range of exposure values. Meaning that after some seemingly arbitrary point in the range, the meter indicates it is 'out of range' - how it does so is camera-dependent. Modern electronics extended this considerably so many will correctly time a long exposure.
For a photo course, that is not what you want and I'd recommend against it. The SRT has all the features needed PLUS long exposures will not place any additional demands on your battery. In fact, the camera is not battery dependent: that shutter is mechanical and about as perfect as you can get. Between X models and SRT's, the glass is all interchangable, so use the SRT and some fine Rokkor optics.
As for batteries, there are acceptable subsititutes available, but buy a hand held light meter. Learn to use incident readings when possible and learn how to interpret the scene and your meter. Do not point a metered camera and blindly put the 'needle in the tennis racket'. Visualize what you seek and capture it with the tools available to you.
For a photo course, that is not what you want and I'd recommend against it. The SRT has all the features needed PLUS long exposures will not place any additional demands on your battery. In fact, the camera is not battery dependent: that shutter is mechanical and about as perfect as you can get. Between X models and SRT's, the glass is all interchangable, so use the SRT and some fine Rokkor optics.
As for batteries, there are acceptable subsititutes available, but buy a hand held light meter. Learn to use incident readings when possible and learn how to interpret the scene and your meter. Do not point a metered camera and blindly put the 'needle in the tennis racket'. Visualize what you seek and capture it with the tools available to you.