25 Snapshot for Landscape?

[photophorous]

Ok, this may be a silly question, but I'd like to get some opinions. I'm planning out my next lens purchase and I want something wide that I can use for a variety of things, including landscapes. I know most people say the lack of RF coupling is not an issue with the 25/4 Snapshot Skopar, but I'm wondering if anyone uses it for landscape? Is it accurate enough to get nice sharp landscapes? Can you shoot at f8 and have enough control over focus to get everything sharp? Maybe it's just me, but my standards for sharpness are a little higher when I'm shooting landscapes, as opposed to city/street shots.

I know about the new M mount 25mm, but that thing is expensive, so I'd rather get an LTM lens if I can. And, I was considering the 21 for this reason, but I'm beginning to think that would be too wide for me.

Thanks!

Paul

 

[FrankS]

By 35mm standards, the CV25 is capable of delivering totally/very satisfying results. If you're really finicky about sharpness though, check out MF and LF for landscapes.

 

[photophorous]

Thanks for the reply, FrankS. I know a bigger negative would be the best way to go, but landscapes are only part of what I do, and I mostly do them on backpacking trips where a small light camera is much more suitable. One day, when I've learned how to produce good results with 35mm, I'll probably step up to a view camera. I just don't want to be limited by something as simple as not having enough control over the focus.

Paul

 

[Doug]

The nature of focusing and depth-of-field is that the closer you get the more critical focusing becomes. So, the Snapshot Skopar is better suited to landscapes than flower pics, for instance. 🙂 In other words, "don't worry, be happy," the lens is great for sharp landscape shots, and the scale focusing is at its best in that circumstance.

 

[photophorous]

Thanks, Doug. That's what I was hoping to hear!

 

[Finder]

I use a 6x12 camera with a 55mm lens and zone focusing. I find no problem shooting landscapes. If you are nervous about focus, you can buy a small optical accessory rangefinder.

 

[BillBingham2]

For me, the 25 is sharp, very sharp. Frank is right though, if you want sharpness go and find a good 4x5 field camera and mount a Nikkor LF lens on it, you can not go wrong. That said.....

A lot depends upon how much croppppping you want to do. I found the 21mm just too wide for the regular stuff where as the 25 was perfect. The 15 is my widest and will be for a long time. I find going from 15 to 25 a fine jump.

Landscapes are unique things for me. Sometimes they feel better with a 90, others a 35 or 25. Not sure why.

B2 (.->

 

[Doug]

I don't do much landscape, generally, but here's a cityscape shot with the 25 Snapshot Skopar. Let's see if I can attach the full scaled-down pic, originally 2992x2000 pixels, plus two 100%-scale crops... one from a nearby sign, and one from a more distant part....

 

[BillBingham2]

Nikon S3 2000, CV 25/4 @ f16, she does fine for landscapes. Worry not.

The thumbnail is at 100%, a crappy Costco scan, just the top of the lighthouse. Do not think with some 100 ASA film (mine was 400) and a good enlarger or scanner you will have a thing to worry about.

B2 (;->

 

[mike goldberg]

Although some guys like the 21, the CV 25 is more suitable for the way I "see."
I have the non-coupled CV 25/4 in LTM + M Adapter + dedicated viewer.
It is one of the sharpest lenses I own.

 

[bigdog]

I have a 20mm for my SLR and I find it a bit wide for landscapes. I really view the 20mm as a close up lens. I think you need to get really close to your subject or have something very strong in the foreground because everything in the frame that is not close appears to be so small. I think a 24/25mm is the perfect landscape lens. Just my opinion.

 

[photophorous]

Thanks to everyone for commenting, and thanks Doug and Bill for the samples. This lens seems like a fantastic deal.

I need some Beano.

Paul

 

[pvdhaar]

The depth of field on the 25 is so extensive that you just need to be able to guesstimate the following 6 distances..

infinity (easy)
6m (should be doable)
3m (click stopped)
halfway between 3 and 1.5m (should be doable)
1.5m (click stopped)
1m (click stopped)

that's it.. From here it's just a matter of F8 and be there..

By the way, the reason that I have included 6m and ca. 2m, is that the DOF scale on the 25 is a bit generous, and that merely using infinity and the click stop distances (3m, 1.5m, 1m) may sometimes give pictures that give the impression of being a bit off..

 

[photophorous]

The depth of field on the 25 is so extensive that you just need to be able to guesstimate the following 6 distances..

infinity (easy)
6m (should be doable)
3m (click stopped)
halfway between 3 and 1.5m (should be doable)
1.5m (click stopped)
1m (click stopped)

that's it.. From here it's just a matter of F8 and be there..

By the way, the reason that I have included 6m and ca. 2m, is that the DOF scale on the 25 is a bit generous, and that merely using infinity and the click stop distances (3m, 1.5m, 1m) may sometimes give pictures that give the impression of being a bit off..

Hi Peter,

I'm a little confused. If the click stops only offer 1, 1.5, and 3, what good is it to be able to estimate 2.25 and 6? How would you use that information, once you made the estimate?

Thanks,
Paul

 

[pvdhaar]

Hi Peter,

I'm a little confused. If the click stops only offer 1, 1.5, and 3, what good is it to be able to estimate 2.25 and 6? How would you use that information, once you made the estimate?

Thanks,
Paul

What I tried to put across, is that guessing distance good enough to get sharp results isn't all that hard on a 25/4. In fact it's so easy that if you can tell something that's 6m away from something that's 3m away, you're all set.

It's even easier if you're working way stopped down..

If you're working at f11-f16, the depth of field is so large, that when you set the distance at 3m, you'll have everything from 1.5m to infinity sharp. Set the lens at 1.5m, and DOF covers the 1m-3m range. Set the lens at 1m, and the range is from 0.7m to 1.5m. So, if you can judge whether something is about 3m distant or at infinity or at 1.5m, you can get sharp pictures.

When you're working at f5.6-f8, depth of field is still large, but requires a bit more thought in guesstimating distances. If you dial in 6m, then DOF covers 3m-infinity. Dial in 3m and DOF covers 2.2m-6m. Dial in 2.2m and DOF covers 1.5m-3m.. etc..

So here to, if you can just tell these distances apart, you're all set..

Long story short: with the CV25/4 you don't have to take a ruler along, but merely ballparking distances is more than sufficient..

 

[Doug]

I'm a little confused. If the click stops only offer 1, 1.5, and 3, what good is it to be able to estimate 2.25 and 6? How would you use that information, once you made the estimate?

I'm not sure if any confusion exists over settings between click stops... The distance clicks are only there for a convenient tactile feedback of those focus settings without needing to look at the lens distance scale. Just as with other lenses you can set it for whatever distance you want.

 

[photophorous]

I'm not sure if any confusion exists over settings between click stops... The distance clicks are only there for a convenient tactile feedback of those focus settings without needing to look at the lens distance scale. Just as with other lenses you can set it for whatever distance you want.

Ooohhh! I didn't realize that. So, it has a full scale of focus distances, just like any other lens, but there are just some clicks along the way to give you feedback...

That sounds great. That's no problem at all. I was thinking I could only focus at the click stops.

Thanks for explaining that to me. I feel pretty confident in my ability to guess distances, but being limited to four distance settings would be a little challenging. Now, none of that matters. 😀 I definitely want one.

Paul

 

[photophorous]

What I tried to put across, is that guessing distance good enough to get sharp results isn't all that hard on a 25/4. In fact it's so easy that if you can tell something that's 6m away from something that's 3m away, you're all set.

It's even easier if you're working way stopped down..

If you're working at f11-f16, the depth of field is so large, that when you set the distance at 3m, you'll have everything from 1.5m to infinity sharp. Set the lens at 1.5m, and DOF covers the 1m-3m range. Set the lens at 1m, and the range is from 0.7m to 1.5m. So, if you can judge whether something is about 3m distant or at infinity or at 1.5m, you can get sharp pictures.

When you're working at f5.6-f8, depth of field is still large, but requires a bit more thought in guesstimating distances. If you dial in 6m, then DOF covers 3m-infinity. Dial in 3m and DOF covers 2.2m-6m. Dial in 2.2m and DOF covers 1.5m-3m.. etc..

So here to, if you can just tell these distances apart, you're all set..

Long story short: with the CV25/4 you don't have to take a ruler along, but merely ballparking distances is more than sufficient..

Peter,

Thanks for the detailed reply. I think all my confusion was caused by thinking that you could only focus at the click stops. It all makes sense now, and I'm going to have to fight hard not to go buy this lens before Christmas. 😀

Paul

 

[mackigator]

I use this lens a lot. Originally I got it b/c it fit two goals of mine at the time - those being low cost and WA - and this little guy is quite a performer for the money. Well suited to landscape work with your goal of light/small gear. Easy to focus. As I write I'm working through some slides from a recent trip to Nova Scotia and once again, the CV25/4 images are pretty hard to argue with. I also find that on my CLE and Hexar RF I can use the entire viewfinder area to frame my images and thus not have to use the accessory finder. Some other output:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/clarkmackey/tags/voigtlandersnapshotskopar25mmf40/

 

[pvdhaar]

Peter,

Thanks for the detailed reply. I think all my confusion was caused by thinking that you could only focus at the click stops. It all makes sense now, and I'm going to have to fight hard not to go buy this lens before Christmas. 😀

Paul

Sorry for the confusion, and glad it's all clear now.