kiss-o-matic
Well-known
It looks like he 28Ti is the easiest to get of these to get, and is slightly cheaper. I know the TC-1 apparently has a rockin' lens, and I assume as much about the GR1v.
What I can't find out about is how these things manually focus. I'll do a lot of shooting at F16 zone focusing, so it doesn't have to be ridiculous fast, but I'd like something fairly intuitive.
Any other comments I'm open to hearing as well.
What I can't find out about is how these things manually focus. I'll do a lot of shooting at F16 zone focusing, so it doesn't have to be ridiculous fast, but I'd like something fairly intuitive.
Any other comments I'm open to hearing as well.
Archlich
Well-known
On the 28Ti, hold the AF button and turn the wheel,
On the TC-1, change the command dial to AF/M and adjust with the lever.
On the GR1 and GR1s, push the mode button once you are at infinity; two more times you are at the Snap Mode (defaults to 2 meters). Further adjustment (1, 2, 3, 5 meters) is possible on the GR1v but requires some fiddling.
Only the three GR1 models prefocuses the lens (extends into position as you adjust the distance), which means it has only the shutter lag to deal with once you press the shutter. None offers a rangefinder in manual focus as the Contax T2 does.
I find the GR1 series to be most intuitive with zone focus - utterly responsive, you just press the mode button three times into Snap Mode and shoot away.
On the TC-1, change the command dial to AF/M and adjust with the lever.
On the GR1 and GR1s, push the mode button once you are at infinity; two more times you are at the Snap Mode (defaults to 2 meters). Further adjustment (1, 2, 3, 5 meters) is possible on the GR1v but requires some fiddling.
Only the three GR1 models prefocuses the lens (extends into position as you adjust the distance), which means it has only the shutter lag to deal with once you press the shutter. None offers a rangefinder in manual focus as the Contax T2 does.
I find the GR1 series to be most intuitive with zone focus - utterly responsive, you just press the mode button three times into Snap Mode and shoot away.
xixi_gelly
Member
I have the GR1 (which lacks the zone focus mode people love in GR series) but find the AF so fast under most conditions that speed isn't a problem when using AF+recompose method.
It's cheaper than the GR1v and I believe the optics are the same. The glass is fabulous and I have some 20x30cm prints hanging in my house to back that up!
If you're not wedded to having that degree of MF control I'd wholeheartedly recommend the cheaper GR1
It's cheaper than the GR1v and I believe the optics are the same. The glass is fabulous and I have some 20x30cm prints hanging in my house to back that up!
If you're not wedded to having that degree of MF control I'd wholeheartedly recommend the cheaper GR1
Bisakok
Established
Worth having a look at the Fuji Klasse W as well. Fairly intuitive. Aperture dial on top. Exposure compensation on front. Lens is sharp and contrasty. About US$500 on ebay. Also about 10 years younger than the Minolta and Nikon I think.
It's also the only 28mm film P&S that the manufacturer still repairs.
Bisakok
Established
"It's also the only 28mm film P&S that the manufacturer still repairs".
I wanted to say that, but couldn't confirm it. Many thanks.
I wanted to say that, but couldn't confirm it. Many thanks.
kiss-o-matic
Well-known
Thanks for the replies.
That's a 38mm lens, right? Sort of a non-starter. I already have a Contax Proof (for got the US equivalent) at 35mm which I'm quite happy with.
I considered the Klasse W briefly, but figured if I was going Nikon I might as well get the Nikon 28Ti. I'll throw it into the mix. I might take this sucker out to a really crappy (for cameras) location so the cheaper GR1 is also an option... the size of the TC-1 is a huge seller though.
I'm going to Japan soon so the availability and prices can change.
So how is this different than the GR1s? Archlich's post before yours alludes that they are the same.
Thanks!
That's a 38mm lens, right? Sort of a non-starter. I already have a Contax Proof (for got the US equivalent) at 35mm which I'm quite happy with.
I considered the Klasse W briefly, but figured if I was going Nikon I might as well get the Nikon 28Ti. I'll throw it into the mix. I might take this sucker out to a really crappy (for cameras) location so the cheaper GR1 is also an option... the size of the TC-1 is a huge seller though.
I'm going to Japan soon so the availability and prices can change.
So how is this different than the GR1s? Archlich's post before yours alludes that they are the same.
Thanks!
Bisakok
Established
The viewfinder on the Fuji is good...
mod2001
Old school modernist
GR1 > GR1S + uprated lens coating + Illuminated display panel, lights up when you manipulate a setting that does not have a dedicated dial or other control, as far as i remember it came also with a lens hood which can be used as filter holder too.
GR1S > GR1V +DX override + Bracketing + manual focus mode 1m, 2m, 3m, 5m and infinity
Yogi
lynnb
Veteran
Not sure if you want to consider XA4 Macro? Zone focus down to 12", programmed exposure, DX ISO or manual ISO for non-DX, +1.5EV exposure compensation. Hard to find.
kiss-o-matic
Well-known
Right -- I couldn't figure out how the zone focusing fit into all that (between GR1 and GR1s). I know the GR1v has DX Override which is a huge feature... not sure if it's worth $300 but it's nice.
I actually have/had one. Loved it for the $85 I spent on it, but whatever I take will make it to Burning Man with me, and even with lots of Ziploc bags, the plastic stuff just doesn't hold up to the dust. I got about 6 shots into my XA4 last year until I had to put it away (and have no idea where it is - it's effectively dead). Makes a horrible noise when winding, and I'm not entirely sure it's not completely eating the film.