tbarker13
shooter of stuff
I'm thinking about seeking out a 35 lux non/asph to use with my M8.
I've read on these forums about them being prone to flare. Just wondering if there are versions (older serial numbers versus newer serial numbers) that are better than others. Or was the formula the same throughout its run?
Anyone using one with an M8? What do you think of it?
I've read on these forums about them being prone to flare. Just wondering if there are versions (older serial numbers versus newer serial numbers) that are better than others. Or was the formula the same throughout its run?
Anyone using one with an M8? What do you think of it?
cmogi10
Bodhisattva
I don't but I fell in love at first sight with the 35 biogon. Not as fast but super flare resistant.
Kind of a different animal but I felt like contributing.
Kind of a different animal but I felt like contributing.
Rayt
Nonplayer Character
I have a very late titanium version and it is much less prone to flare compared to the early E41 chrome version. I am sure the multi coating has a lot to do with it. It is a subjectively beautiful lens but wide open may not be the best.
maddoc
... likes film again.
I have the 35Lux pre-ASPH (2nd vs) and like it. Used it with my Epson RD-1s and now my M film Leicas. I didn't have problems with flare but maybe that's only me ...
This one is for sure not a masterpiece but lighting was critical (on Tri-X):
This one is for sure not a masterpiece but lighting was critical (on Tri-X):
tbarker13
shooter of stuff
I'm curious Maddoc. Is that shot wide open?
I'm not really looking for absolute sharpness in a lens. But I still want it to be useable at max aperture.
I'm not really looking for absolute sharpness in a lens. But I still want it to be useable at max aperture.
Thomas W
Member
summilux 35/1.4 pre-asph
summilux 35/1.4 pre-asph
I also have the titanium version, and is often mounted on the M8 these days. Very sharp when stepped down to 4. But shot wide open, it has a certain aura; not razor sharp but lots of 'presence'. Finding the original hood (12504) could be a problem though. The 50 summicron DR is my first love (too bad it could not be mounted on the M8!), and then the Konica 60/1.2 came along. But if there's a desert island fast lens, the summilux would be my choice.
Thomas
summilux 35/1.4 pre-asph
I also have the titanium version, and is often mounted on the M8 these days. Very sharp when stepped down to 4. But shot wide open, it has a certain aura; not razor sharp but lots of 'presence'. Finding the original hood (12504) could be a problem though. The 50 summicron DR is my first love (too bad it could not be mounted on the M8!), and then the Konica 60/1.2 came along. But if there's a desert island fast lens, the summilux would be my choice.
Thomas
bankcheck
Established
Gabriel M.A.
My Red Dot Glows For You
Dang it, maddoc. Now that I'm trying to decide whether to sell my 35mm Biogon for a 35 Summicron, here I am again pondering about the awful awful awful 35 Summilux pre-asph.maddoc said:I have the 35Lux pre-ASPH (2nd vs) and like it. Used it with my Epson RD-1s and now my M film Leicas. I didn't have problems with flare but maybe that's only me ...
This one is for sure not a masterpiece but lighting was critical (on Tri-X):
SolaresLarrave
My M5s need red dots!
Tony C.
Established
Just to complicate matters, I just recently acquired a version IV pre-ASPH 'cron. I've only been able to take a few test shots thus far, but I sure like what I've seen. Quite sharp even wide open, coupled with a very pleasing (to my eye) OOF rendering.
Last edited:
Gabriel M.A.
My Red Dot Glows For You
E-vyl. If I had the money, perhaps. But the pre-asph is about as small as the Summicron. After receiving my 40mm Rokkor (and soon a "loaner" Summicron-C?), I've decided that I was right to feel very bugged by the size of the Biogon.SolaresLarrave said:Will this one convince you to move on to the Asph?
Gabriel M.A.
My Red Dot Glows For You
Even more e-vyl. Anybody would like to trade my Biogon for your Summicron?Tony C. said:Just to complicate matters, I just recently acquired a version IV pre-ASPH 'cron.
Bueller?
Gabriel M.A.
My Red Dot Glows For You
I am soitenly interested. Let me know what you decide / have in mind. (or "might")ErikFive said:Dang it Gabriel. I might have a very late 35 lux pre asph not coded or a 35 cron IV coded for M8 for sale
cmogi10
Bodhisattva
ErikFive said:
Whatcha planning on buying?
RichC
Well-known
I bought one recently to replace my Voigtlander Ultron 35/1.7, simply because I've always wanted one.
I did a bit of research before buying, and it seems that although the optical formula of the pre-aspherical remained the same, the lens mount changed in 1966 (serial No. 2,166,701 and above), and these later lenses are apparently less flare-prone owing to improved lens coatings.
The first time I used my Summilux, I found it flared much more than my Ultron, even af f5.6-f8 and using the correct round vented hood - admittedly I was 10,000 feet up a mountain with lots of glare! Taking off the UV filter and using my hand as an additional shade alleviated the problem temporarily.
I decided that the although the round hood looks cool, it's rubbish and barely works - and that the Summilux really needs a decent hood to stop flare. I bought a rectangular 12524 rectangular hood, which is nice and small and works much better, and which now lives on the lens.
The rear element is protected by a metal shroud. Unfortunately, it seems that that Leica made a minor change to the shroud length at some stage, so the shroud on certain Summiluxes fouls the bottom ledge on the inside of the M8, preventing the lens being focused at infinity. This was the case with my lens. I have no idea what identifies Summiluxes affected in this way (e.g. the serial number).
The youngest pre-aspherical Summilux is still over a decade old, so I decided that my "new" lens could do with a CLA, - and asked for 1 mm to be machined off the the shroud's height at the same time (cost me £10 extra!). This wasn't done all round the shroud but only for that part of the shroud's circumference encompassed by measuring 7 mm inwards from the bottom of the shroud - this allowed the shroud to clear the ledge without removing more of the shroud than necessary, so the element is still well protected.
12524 hood tips:
• The hood blocks the viewfinder slightly, which might not bother you. It did me, so I made a small cut-out, like Leica does to some of its other rectangular hoods.
• The hood rotates: to stop this, put a thin rubber O-ring (or insulating tape) in the groove on the lens in which the hood tabs locate, to grip the tabs.
• The rubber lens cap 14043 fits, but is prone to falling off. I bent the side tabs inwards, using boiling water, and the cap is now much more secure. If I lose it, I've heard that dense foam cut to size and used as a "plug" is a good alternative.
Sorry folks - typo: the hood is 12524 not 12534. It's for the 35mm/f2.0 Summicron-M.
I did a bit of research before buying, and it seems that although the optical formula of the pre-aspherical remained the same, the lens mount changed in 1966 (serial No. 2,166,701 and above), and these later lenses are apparently less flare-prone owing to improved lens coatings.
The first time I used my Summilux, I found it flared much more than my Ultron, even af f5.6-f8 and using the correct round vented hood - admittedly I was 10,000 feet up a mountain with lots of glare! Taking off the UV filter and using my hand as an additional shade alleviated the problem temporarily.
I decided that the although the round hood looks cool, it's rubbish and barely works - and that the Summilux really needs a decent hood to stop flare. I bought a rectangular 12524 rectangular hood, which is nice and small and works much better, and which now lives on the lens.
The rear element is protected by a metal shroud. Unfortunately, it seems that that Leica made a minor change to the shroud length at some stage, so the shroud on certain Summiluxes fouls the bottom ledge on the inside of the M8, preventing the lens being focused at infinity. This was the case with my lens. I have no idea what identifies Summiluxes affected in this way (e.g. the serial number).
The youngest pre-aspherical Summilux is still over a decade old, so I decided that my "new" lens could do with a CLA, - and asked for 1 mm to be machined off the the shroud's height at the same time (cost me £10 extra!). This wasn't done all round the shroud but only for that part of the shroud's circumference encompassed by measuring 7 mm inwards from the bottom of the shroud - this allowed the shroud to clear the ledge without removing more of the shroud than necessary, so the element is still well protected.
12524 hood tips:
• The hood blocks the viewfinder slightly, which might not bother you. It did me, so I made a small cut-out, like Leica does to some of its other rectangular hoods.
• The hood rotates: to stop this, put a thin rubber O-ring (or insulating tape) in the groove on the lens in which the hood tabs locate, to grip the tabs.
• The rubber lens cap 14043 fits, but is prone to falling off. I bent the side tabs inwards, using boiling water, and the cap is now much more secure. If I lose it, I've heard that dense foam cut to size and used as a "plug" is a good alternative.
Sorry folks - typo: the hood is 12524 not 12534. It's for the 35mm/f2.0 Summicron-M.
Last edited:
cmogi10
Bodhisattva
ErikFive said:
I'm not going to lie though, I've been using a DSLR a lot lately, it just makes a lot more sense for a couple of projects im working on. I realized how much happier I'd be shooting with my M-Quality glass on my DSLR because I really ignored that kid and never gassed. I still don't really gas but I ordered a super cheap Nikon 50/1.8 that I've been very pleased with the results. It feels cheap but it takes good pictures, cost me less then 100 bucks and now I don't think about it again. My Fuji S3 is obnoxiously slow but I like the results and don't think about it.
I still really think I'm GAS free :angel:
maddoc
... likes film again.
As I remember it was taken at f / 2.0.tbarker13 said:
This here was taken @ 1/30s f / 1.4 on 400TMY :
maddoc
... likes film again.
I know it is a tough decision ...Gabriel M.A. said:
I first had the CV 35 f/2.5 PII and liked it for its size and quality but wanted a faster lens with the same size. There is no alternative, except the Nokton 40mm f/1.4. The 35Lux ASPH is to large but I like the hood of this lens.To my opinion the hood of the 35Lux pre-ASPH is the weak point. These vented hoods may look cool but a rectangular hood made from plastic a) provides better shading b) protects the lens better ... RichC has a good point here !
maddoc
... likes film again.
RichC: Thanks a lot for these tip / info ! I am going to search for this hood, maybe at EvilBay...RichC said:
The round hoods (Summicron 50mm, 35Lux pre) are really only cosmetics .... :bang:
RichC
Well-known
Sorry folks - typo in my post: the hood is 12524 not 12534. It's for the 35mm/f2.0 Summicron-M. :bang:
The 12526 is a newer version of this hood but with redesigned tabs that hold the lens cap on more securely.
Also, it doesn't cause vignetting at f1.4 on the M8 - but no guarantees on an M7 or other film body...
The 12526 is a newer version of this hood but with redesigned tabs that hold the lens cap on more securely.
Also, it doesn't cause vignetting at f1.4 on the M8 - but no guarantees on an M7 or other film body...
Last edited: