Your welcome Daniel. I love talking about Coimbra. I wish that I was in Coimbra (I always wish that I was in Coimbra) so I could give you and your wife a tour myself. I have a condo in the Bairo de Sao Miguel, a neighbourhood at the city limits on the North side - a modern area. I'm only there during the months of July and August though. This year I couldn't go because we were constructing a new home here in Canada.
Thanks ZeMane, I gather you've been to Coimbra before.
E_Aiken, I'm glad you enjoyed my city.
Back to the tour.
Pass the Jardim da Manga (
photo) and you will eventually come to the Largo da Sansao on the left renamed Praca 8 de Maio. Its a good size square with a fountain in the middle. There will probably be pigeons everywhere. There you will see the Monastery of Santa Cruz. (
photo)
This is the most important building in Coimbra, and in my opinion, it is the most important building in Portugal. Why? There are grander and more elaborate buildings but few can equal the beauty of this monastery. Inside its dark but there is a profound peacefulness that envelops you completely. I'm not a religious man but I have found myself sitting in the nave or the cloister for hours perfectly content with just being still. There is no other building in Portugal with greater historical significance. This was the first true great monument made in the Kingdom of Portugal. It was built for the Portuguese people by the first Portuguese King, D. Afonso Henriques, who is regarded as perhaps Portugal's greatest hero and a true warrior-King. His tomb is on the left of the altar. The second king, D. Sancho I, lies directly across from his father on the right side of the altar. The construction of this Monastery affirmed to the world that the Kingdom of Portugal existed and was independent. Many also regard it as the starting point that led Portugal on the path to becoming the most powerful and richest among nations during the time of the Discoveries until the devastating earthquake and tsunami of 1755 destroyed much of Lisbon and other Portuguese coastal towns. Construction of Santa Cruz started in 1131 on the site of the Roman baths.
The much beloved St. Anthony of Lisbon (or St. Anthony of Padua to Italians) found his true inspiration for evangelism here at this Monastery. This is how the story has been passed to me by my mother. The historical accuracy is probably pretty bad. St. Anthony, was born in Lisbon where he became a monk. His affluent family constantly tormented him over his decision so he got transfered to Coimbra where he lived and studied at Santa Cruz. In 1220, St. Anthony hosted Franciscan monks, among them St. Berard from Flanders, that were on a mission to Morocco to convert the Sultan to Christianity. They came to Portugal to learn first hand about the Moors and because one of the King's brothers (I can't remember the name) had a mercenary force and was willing to accompany them into Morocco. Well, it didn't go as planned. The Sultan had them killed with their remains chopped up and thrown onto a dung pile. The mercenary force gathered the remains and sneaked out of Morocco heading back north to Coimbra. Upon arriving in Coimbra, the beasts carrying the remains of the monks become uncontrollable and stormed into Santa Cruz. The beasts continued to be uncontrollable and refused to leave the Monastery until it was decided that the remains of the monks were to stay at Santa Cruz. They were proclaimed Martyred Saints. St. Anthony was so moved that the once quiet man became a great and passionate orator. He decided to go to Morocco to convert the Sultan himself. While in Morocco he contracted malaria and was taken back to Portugal. But while crossing the Mediterranean, a storm blew his ship off course and he landed in Sicily where he found and joined other Franciscan monks and travelled throughout Italy and the southern parts of France preaching the Gospel and converting many 'heretics'.
On the right side of the nave, there is a door that will give you access to the sacristy and the wonderful cloister. There is a room blocked by a heavy iron gate there where you could see small, well-decorated chests. I grew up thinking that in those chests were the remains of the Martyred Saints. The cloister is gorgeous. The entire monastery is adorned by beautiful carvings by the great Nicolau Chanterene and other fine masters.
Part of the Monastery on the right was converted into a cafe and bar many years ago. It has been a haunt for many intellectuals that passed through the city. During the World Wars and later the Cold War, it was a hub of espionage activity. The washrooms are in the old confessionals. It has a great atmosphere and it presents great opportunities for photos. (
photo)
When leaving Santa Cruz, directly to your left is the Rua de Ferreira Borges - the one you came up from the Portagem. To the right is Rua da Sofia. If you want a good meal, travel down the west side of Rua da Sofia and you'll find a sign to the Restaurant Democratica. Its located down a small alley but there is a very energetic elderly man (in his mid-80's directing people there). They make these great fried Carapauzihnos - little fried mackerels. I like them better than the sardines. They also have this Prato do Juiz - the Dish of the Judge. This dish can induce a heart-attack but its almost worth it. They take deep-fried small potatoes, put them in a pot with chopped up pork, morcela, chourico, carrots, olives, onions, garlic... then its blasted in the oven cooking in its own fat and heavy cream. Its a working-class restaurant and a very lively place during the afternoon. Its not one bit formal and there is lots of yelling, chanting and laughter. Good photo opportunities here too. You can eat very well there for about 8 Euros.
Also in front of the Monastary there is a hotel - Pensao Santa Cruz. Its not that great but if there if there is a fado concert, classical music concert or regional dancing in front of Santa Cruz, it offers the best view possible. (
photo)
Directly across the monastery you will see four narrow streets.
Map:
http://www.coimbra.lip.pt/~rpc2001/images/mapa-q2.jpg
If you want a good haircut visit 'Os Irmaos' - The Brothers down the Rua da Moeda. Tell them you know 'O Parafusos do Canada' - that's the nickname they gave me. From the monastery go down Rua do Corvo. You are now in the Baixa. Traditionally this was the working class area. Now its like an out-door shopping centre. Turn left on Rua Eduardo Coelho. This is a great place for street photography but the streets are very narrow. One trick that worked well for me was to go into one of the many small shops with your significant other. While your partner is shopping, you can take photos of the people passing by through the entrance. I even like taking photos of people looking in through the store displays. This idea was the one of the reasons why I purchased a small telephoto - in my case a CV 75 Heliar. Most of the buildings in this area date back to the 17th century. (
photo)
Eventually you'll get to the Praca do Comercio - a large square. (
photo )Many people figure that the Romans held chariot races here. On weekends, you may find an antique market there or some concert. On Sundays, there are sometimes barbecues and you can feast on grilled sardines. To the left is the Igreja de Sao Tiago. (
photo) It's early 13th century. It's closed unfortunately. You will find to elderly brothers selling tiles and traditional pottery on the steps to the right of the church. They've been there forever. Their wares are cheaper than the ones found in the shops on Rua Quebra Costas that I mentioned before but its not hand painted. However - I find the reproductions to be just as nice and they're 1/4 of the price usually.
Do not go to the cafe in this square. Its a large cafe with lots of tables outside. The waiters are known to inflate the prices to tourists drinking outside where they can't see the price lists. They often double the prices.
Continuing down the square. You'll see the Pelourinho. It's a tall post where people were tied up to be beaten, hung, tortured, etc. You find these in every town. Nowadays, people think they are cute little things. Beyond that is the Igreja de Sao Bartolomeu. There was a church here as far back as the 10th century but this one was completely rebuilt in the 18th century. Its similar to the ones found built in the colonies at the time. (
photo).
Continue pass the Igreja de Sao Bartolomeu and you'll find one of the most charming buildings in Portugal. Its a 15th building probably home to several peasant families at that time. There aren't very many examples of these buildings left. If you look at it, you can't help but wonder how it was able to stay standing after all these years. (
photo).
Pass this old building you will find stairs leading you back to the Portagem. Cross the Santa Clara bridge and take a look back.
That concludes a one-day walking tour of Coimbra. There are many more things in Coimbra worth seeing but I covered all the important ones.
If you want to spend an extra day in the area I highly recommend you spend it at Bucaco. 20 minutes to the north of Coimbra is the fairy-tale palace of Bucaco (
photo). It is surrounded by the most enchanting forest imaginable that was cultivated and cared for by Christian monks for many centuries seeking to live a simple life among nature. They built a wall around it to keep everyone, and especially the women, out of the forest. Its one of the most beautiful green spaces in Europe. There was a big battle between the Duke of Wellington's British and Portuguese forces against Napoleon there on a huge ridge just outside of the walls. This battle was a major defeat for Napoleon and he was eventually driven out of Portugal. The palace was originally the King's hunting lodge but it is now a hotel. I can't remember the exact pricing but I think in the off-season you can sleep in the King's quarters for less than 300 Euros a night. Still expensive but not that much considering what you pay for a hotel in a place like New York, and they are a far cry from this palace. I always spend at least one day hiking in the forest there - the beauty of these magical woods is breathtaking. (
photos) Cheaper hotels can be found in the nearby city of Luso. You'll run into Luso spring water in Portugal - this is where it comes from.
Anyway, if I had to choose one focal length, it would be 35mm like most suggested here. Wide-angles were made for places like these.
Have fun!
Edit:
Here's some more photo albums of Coimbra
