35f1.2 vs 35f2.8 Only Lens on MP240

[taemo]

^Don't know what lens Michael used on that thread but personally, I would have preferred that the background were a little more in focus as it adds more depth to the subject and the location.

I have backpacked with an M240 and Biogon 35mm 2.8 as primary lens (CV 50mm 1.5 as tele and CV 21mm 4 as wide-angle) and found the Biogon 35mm 2.8 more than capable.
Agree that in low-light 2.8 can be a little limiting, especially on the M240 as I didn't like using it past ISO 1600 but if you don't shoot low light enough then it might be sufficient.
An f/2 lens might be a better compromise, the new CV 35mm f2 is mighty tempting.

These are shots taken with a 35mm at f/2.8

 

[Huss]

How come GW and HCB managed it without subject isolation...
Subject isolation could be done at f5.6 anyway...

35 as only lens on camera which can't handle dust on the sensor is good idea.

Huge lens as 1.2... RF window blockage and weight.
2.8 of particular brand... Clicking 1/3 all way from 2.8 to 16 every day...
And how long will it take to develop wobble after daily use...

HCB did not use subject isolation. Correct. So? Do you want to be him or do your own thing? Because news flash, you won't be him.

I said occasional subject isolation. Not for every shot. The fast lens allows that when you decide to. So what if it is 'huge'. Is it better to find solace in a missed image with the fact that at least you carried a smaller lens?
The 35 1.2 is a big lens. As is the ZM 35 1.4. Look at Michael's thread and the images he created with that lens. Apparently size did not prevent his gorgeous work.
🙂
I have big fast 35mm lenses, as well as small slow ones. Size has never been the deciding factor for which one to use. Desired image has.

 

[michaelwj]

HCB did not use subject isolation. Correct. So? Do you want to be him or do your own thing? Because news flash, you won't be him.

I said occasional subject isolation. Not for every shot. The fast lens allows that when you decide to. So what if it is 'huge'. Is it better to find solace in a missed image with the fact that at least you carried a smaller lens?
The 35 1.2 is a big lens. As is the ZM 35 1.4. Look at Michael's thread and the images he created with that lens. Apparently size did not prevent his gorgeous work.
🙂
I have big fast 35mm lenses, as well as small slow ones. Size has never been the deciding factor for which one to use. Desired image has.

There is a point where photography switches from the purpose of a trip to an add on. The equipment list for each type of trip is different, and dictated by distance, time, company, etc. I’ll pack differently for a local landscape session than I will for a carry on only overseas trip with my family. Sure, in both cases I might be up at the crack of dawn specifically to take a photo, but as the non photo taking time increases my gear decreases in quantity size and weight.
In the OPs case, the obvious choose is to split the difference and get the new CV 2/35. Still small and light.

 

[Ko.Fe.]

HCB did not use subject isolation. Correct. So? Do you want to be him or do your own thing? Because news flash, you won't be him.

I said occasional subject isolation. Not for every shot. The fast lens allows that when you decide to. So what if it is 'huge'. Is it better to find solace in a missed image with the fact that at least you carried a smaller lens?
The 35 1.2 is a big lens. As is the ZM 35 1.4. Look at Michael's thread and the images he created with that lens. Apparently size did not prevent his gorgeous work.
🙂
I have big fast 35mm lenses, as well as small slow ones. Size has never been the deciding factor for which one to use. Desired image has.

🙂 I guess you never traveled with your load of lenses.
I had situation then even Summarit 35 2.5 was squished in the carry on bag.
After it I carry on camera on me.

Was it Michael who has to find where to fix 35 1.2? I googled this lens, first version, apparently it has some build issues. I decided not to go for this lens.
As traveler with one lens only, I prefer lens with clean reputation or couple pancakes 🙂

 

[willie_901]

How come GW and HCB managed it without subject isolation...
Subject isolation could be done at f5.6 anyway...

35 as only lens on camera which can't handle dust on the sensor is good idea.

Huge lens as 1.2... RF window blockage and weight.
2.8 of particular brand... Clicking 1/3 all way from 2.8 to 16 every day...
And how long will it take to develop wobble after daily use...

Agreed.







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[ktmrider]

Although my trip is six months away and I will change my mind on what gear to carry dozens of times, I am presently leaning toward the MP240 with 35f2.8, 50 Summicron and 90 Tele Elmarit M. The lenses are all small. I have also just ordered a GR2 with a 28 FOV as a backup. It weighs 8 ounces and from all reports is a remarkable camera. I know the GR3 is due out tomorrow but I wanted a built in flash and better battery life then the GR3 is reported to have. And I did not want to spend $900 for a backup. If my X70 had not been destroyed last September, I would be fine carrying it.

As for the Zeiss wobble, I own both the 25 and 35 Biogons and have yet to see the wobble. I have owned the 35 for six years or so and use it as my primary 35. And as far as the weight of the Nokton, well the laws of optics dictate that if you want speed then you need a lot of glass.

Don't see much difference in two vs three click stops.

And MP240 seems to me to be fine for low light shooting. I used to photograph high school sports using a Nikon F, TriX pushed to 1600-3200, a 180f2.8 lens and manual focusing while having to print on Number 5 or 6 paper to get a usable image. Technology has made us soft. And HCB or Capa would have loved to have even ISO 400 available.

 

[Ko.Fe.]

35, 50 and 90 is HCB kit 🙂.

Low light shooting is very personal thing. Earl will limit M240 to ISO1600.
I'm using M-E at 2500. By old digital school not practiced by many. Which is - as long as exposure meter is in the middle, keep the ISO high.

 

[ktmrider]

I have changed my mind on the backup. Have decided on a GR3 (latest and greatest) instead of a GR2. Battery life can be handled with an extra battery but wish it had flash. Can't have everything.

 

[pyeh]

Ktmrider, the battery life on the GR2 isn't anything to write home about either. You would need at least one spare for it, so batteries needn't be a consideration in your choice between the two versions.
I reckon you've done the right thing going for the GR3, and as I mentioned before, perhaps in your other thread, the GR3 cropped to 35mm is much the same MP as the GR2 at 28mm. Conceivably you needn't bring your M240.

 

[ktmrider]

Why purchase a Leica and leave it at home? I was torn between the GR2 and GR3 and the X100F. I traveled to Nepal and Peru years ago with the original X100 and really liked the camera but it duplicates the Leica if I carry the 35mm lens which is my favorite focal length. I just could not bring myself to spend $1300 on the X100F even though I like it a lot.

I have probably placed six or seven orders with B&H over the last week and then changed my mind and cancelled before shipping. I enjoyed using a Fuji X70 two years ago hiking across England and did not feel limited by the 28 FOV lens. And I have done a couple different trips with the M9 and a 50 to SE Asia and again did not feel limited by having only one lens.

If B&H would hurry and ship (in two days), I would not have a chance to change my mind as returning the camera would cost dollars. I have an extra battery on order and the GR3 only weighs 8 ounces. And it is six months or so before my trip so who knows what equipment combo I will actually take. I want to write a blog with photos and at the same time travel light enough to just have carry on luggage. Presently, luggage will consist of a 36 liter backpack and a Hadley Small.

Thanks for all the comments here on the thread. I know I make my wife nuts changing my mind all the time but as she says researching and worrying about gear is actually my main hobby, not photography.

 

[taffy]

I had once half of each image black in my M9. This happened in Berlin, Germany. I had twice the sensor replaced. The M8 did not break down. It had hot spots on the sensor. Such problems can mess up photography during a trip.

Hi Raid

I'm late to this thread but what do you mean about "hotspots on the sensor"? Are these like isolated white pixels or a bigger area? Thanks a lot!

 

[umcelinho]

To take only one lens with you is the best you can do. When traveling, it is very annoying always have to choose. This works on your nerves so you'll miss good shots.

The 50mm is a great "stand alone" lens, better than a 35mm. A 35mm is too wide, there will be too much unimportant things on your shots.
Do not forget that watching a lot of photos taken with a 35mm lens in a row is boring. That is less the case if the photos are taken with a 50mm.

Erik.

I was going to disagree with you, but then the "sequence of 35mm shots becomes boring" part came and I kinda agree with you now. But depending on where he's going and his style of shooting he might miss having a lens a tad wider.

Then again - if we only have a single lens to work with, we just make it work. So no big deal.

 

[umcelinho]

35, 50 and 90 is HCB kit 🙂.

Low light shooting is very personal thing. Earl will limit M240 to ISO1600.
I'm using M-E at 2500. By old digital school not practiced by many. Which is - as long as exposure meter is in the middle, keep the ISO high.

I'm with you on the iso 2500 as tops. shot with 800 as max for a while, then bumped it to 1600. then felt that 2500 didn't have a significant loss of quality vs 1600. it really handles some low light situations pretty well, unless you need to bring up shadow detail. then it's a muddy swamp.