35mm film newbie question

phquest

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Hi, all

I'm a newbie in the 35mm film world. For a few years now, I've been using a digital camera.

This week I purchased my first RF, a Yashica GSN, in order to get into b&w and low light photography. I might also try some color film, now and then.

Now, I have a question. Is it essential to use filters with b&w film and if so, which one would you recommend.

I have used some filters with my digital camera (a grad, polarizer, UV and a ND8), they are all 52mm. The UV and the polarizing filters are the most used.

The filter size on the GSN is 55mm. Now, the next question is the following.....Should I get a step down 55mm > 52mm ring so that I could use some of my old filters, or I'm just better off getting the proper size for the RF.

Will the picture quality be compromised because of the step down ring. Your help will be greatly appreciated.
 
Welcome to teh forum phquest!

The use of filters for B&W is the same as for colour. However there is a nice trick for B&W, you can use a coloured (sorry colored) filter to lighten that color of the filter and darken the opposite color in the color wheel.

For example an orange filter wil lighten red and yellow colours but will darken blue and cyan printed in grey scale of course.

The step ring is a different matter. From experience I'm happy to use step up rings but not step down rings for risk of causing vignetting.

Hope this helps.
 
I agree that the most important accessory would be a lens hood. The GSN has a tendency to flare when pointed towards the sun.

Its great for low light though.
 
Great...So the general consensus is to get a 55mm yellow filter and a lens hood. I suppose, I have to get one without the flower petal, so that it won't interfere with the metering...Right?
 
If you're shooting low light why use any filter that will cut out some of what little light you have? If your new to film keep it simple until you are confident with the basics. I just use UV0 to protect the lens. I have had a UV shatter from behind a lens cap (in my camera bag!) and know others who would have saved £££ if they had a UV on their lens when they dropped the camera. Also they do keep your front element pristine -you clean the filter- and scratched filters are cheap to replace
 
I was referring to the use of filters during daytime hours.

I understand that most filters block away some of the light, and that only TTL metering can work around that, otherwise we have to manually adjust the exposure.

Thanks to the suggestions given to me today, I just ordered a 55mm UV filter for the camera. Now, I have to decide whether to get a collapsible lens hood or a metal one (in order to control flare). What the hell, I might just get the two of them. They are both inexpensive.

Big thanks, to everybody who commented. Your help is appreciated. 🙂
 
I use one of the 'toilet plunger' collapsible rubber hoods on my GSN and it does not seem to block up the rangefinder much - I can see it in the viewfinder though. You can always take a scissors to the offending bit if it worries you, since it is made of rubber. You give up a bit of protection, but gain non-blocked RF image.

I am an advocate of lens hoods - try not to shoot without them - but overall, I'd say that the GSM is less flare-prone than most of that generation. Nice coating, really. The GS, GT and G might have a problem, I don't know. My earlier Lynx 14 is HUGE for flare - it MUST have a lens hood, no doubt. In general, better to have it on there and not need it than to need it and not have it.

By the way, rubber collapsible toilet plunger lens hoods also help protect against suddent bumps and spills, etc.

Final words - if you put a colored filter on for B&W work, take the UV off. Stacked filters can vignette and it's yet another hunk of glass to shoot through anyway.

Best Regards,

Bill Mattocks
 
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