35mm "single" frame processing?

[rbiemer]

Single, in my thread title is in quote marks because I'm actually thinking the size will be about 55mm long.

I've been happily processing 4x5 film with the Stearman daylight tank but have recently been looking at the pile of Altiod Smalls tins we've accumulated.

And am thinking about making some tiny pinhole cameras.

These tins are aproximately 55 x 35 x 15 mm in size and I can make a jig to safely cut 35mm film to length inside my changing bag (I have not built the darkroom in my house, yet.)

But then, I realized I don't have a 35mm tank or reels...

I could clip an alligator clip to one corner of the film and put that--or possibly two--into the Stearman tank, I think?

Or, I could buy a daylight tank and reel(s) and load the short lengths into that?

I do have some small(5" x 7") trays and I could make a rack to hold them stacked vertically and put the assembly into my bag but I don't think I want to possibly spill developer inside it.


Anyone have experience developing such short lengths of 35mm film?

Suggestions or ideas gratefully welcomed!

Thanks in advance, folks.
Rob

 

[sepiareverb]

A Hewes type reel should allow a short length like that to be fully developed, as there is no clip needed to hold the film. The Patterson style reels might also work fine, tho I would be somewhat gentle with agitation as there won’t be much holding the film.

 

[retinax]

If it's one or two frames at a time, perhaps one could also develop them in black plastic film cans? I was thinking about doing that for figuring out developing times. Not sure if they are light tight enough, but filling would need to happen in the dark anyway... main advantage would be very little chemistry needed, doesn't make a difference if one re-uses developer of course.

 

[rbiemer]

A Hewes type reel should allow a short length like that to be fully developed, as there is no clip needed to hold the film. The Patterson style reels might also work fine, tho I would be somewhat gentle with agitation as there won’t be much holding the film.

I thought of the clip only as a way to weight the film if I just use the Stearman tank. But I probably ought to just get a good daylight tank for 35mm and 120 anyway...but then I'll need to get serious about scanning, I suppose.
Hewes type reels are the stainless steel coil looking ones and Patterson style are the plastic ones that you can rock the film into?

If it's one or two frames at a time, perhaps one could also develop them in black plastic film cans? I was thinking about doing that for figuring out developing times. Not sure if they are light tight enough, but filling would need to happen in the dark anyway... main advantage would be very little chemistry needed, doesn't make a difference if one re-uses developer of course.

I think the black plastic cans are light tight, not sure about the grey lids on the ones I have...and Fuji cans are clearly 🙂rolleyes: ) not going to work for this.
I also seem to remember that there are adjustments that ought to be made for very small amounts of chemistry--will need to look into that.

THanks, gentlemen!
Rob

 

[zuiko85]

Or...use photo paper as a negative.
Advantages; can be handled under safelight. Just silly cheap, a 8X10 sheet of paper could be cut into 21 35X55mm pieces.
Since you said you have not yet built a darkroom I assume you plan to. A makeshift darkroom can often be rigged in a bathroom or closet.
Paper is slow, about ISO 6~12, but since this is pinhole you would normally work from a tripod or other secure base anyway. So, where ISO 100 may have an exposure of 2 sec. under average outdoor daylight then ISO 6 would be 30 sec. for the same exposure.
Printing the result would probably be a hybrid set up (unless you want to build your own front illuminated enlarger). That is, photograph the negative with a digital camera and go from there.
Processing paper would require a really minimal set up but initial cost for paper, safelight, chemicals, etc. could run over $100 but that would last a very long time if properly handled.
Also consider trying paper in your 4X5, again a very simple set up and is large enough to contact print for proof work.

 

[Steve M.]

I've used the plastic Paterson reels to develop short lengths of 35mm film, and I've tried my hand developing in homemade tanks and even trays. Trust me, you'll be a lot better off using the reels and developing tank for a lot of reasons that will quickly become apparent when you try dealing w/ that tiny bit of film. Most 35mm developers and films need some agitation to get a good well developed neg too, and tanks will be what you need for that.

 

[sepiareverb]

I thought of the clip only as a way to weight the film if I just use the Stearman tank. But I probably ought to just get a good daylight tank for 35mm and 120 anyway...but then I'll need to get serious about scanning, I suppose.
Hewes type reels are the stainless steel coil looking ones and Patterson style are the plastic ones that you can rock the film into?

Rob

The nikkor/Kindermann type reels use a spring clip to hold the film in the center, this often leaves undeveloped lines on the film. The Hewes use teeth that grab the sprocket holes.

 

[aizan]

Maybe use double-sided tape to stick single frames to the wall of the developing tank? Except it might fall off or cause uneven developing.

 

[B-9]

Second the suggestions of photo paper.

Why not even direct positive paper.

 

[Ronald M]

Film can, 1/2 oz, roll continuously . Similar to processing drums like Unicolor.