RedLion
Come to the Faire
In a few months, we'll all be able to print our own cameras, as well as hard to find replacement parts, out of tough nylon. With their scanner, we'll also be able to take photographs and render them as 3D sculpted objects.
see: http://cubify.com/en/Cube/Compare
see: http://cubify.com/en/Cube/Compare
wafflecakee
Well-known
There are quite a few coming to market, I want someone to make leica hoods!
Particular
a.k.a. CNNY, disassembler
A number of people here have been doing this for years. There are many services and products out there. There are also limits to what kind of objects and products can be made successfully. It is rapidly developing technology.
Ps, Wafflecakee, I'm working on that.
Ps, Wafflecakee, I'm working on that.
Brian Legge
Veteran
Several people have purchased hoods here. I've used a few of them. At times, the fit was a bit tight and I ended up filing it down to fit better. Aside from tolerance issues, they're very nice.
http://www.shapeways.com/shops/AnalogueRobot
http://www.shapeways.com/shops/AnalogueRobot
varchs
Well-known
I am looking for this kind of hood for my ZM Biogon 35/2... which one do you suggest?
shadowfox
Darkroom printing lives
I bought a lens adapter from a 3D printing service before (not the one cited above).
The adapter works and the precision is good, but the problem is the material.
Even though it retains the shape, it's not rigid enough to hold the lens on the camera when I twist the manual focusing ring (or any other rotating movements).
I'm sure soon we'll see plastic materials that is more rigid.
The adapter works and the precision is good, but the problem is the material.
Even though it retains the shape, it's not rigid enough to hold the lens on the camera when I twist the manual focusing ring (or any other rotating movements).
I'm sure soon we'll see plastic materials that is more rigid.
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
Christian,
I am currently using the "Rose" you had printed for me on my Wetzlar M6. Initially it fit tight, but now has settled in. Presently I'm shooting a 3 Leica kit: MD-2/21 SEM; M6 with 35/1.8 Nikkor in LTM; and 0.85 MP with 90/4.0 Macro Elmar. No TA Rapidwinders are being used at this time to keep this kit small.
Cal
jtm6
Well-known
Not all 3D printers use plastic. Corn starch, metal, and ceramics are three other materials that come to mind. Here is an example of printing by metal sintering:
http://gpiprototype.com/services/metal-3d-printing.html
Spanik
Well-known
Have been doing that since 1992 or so. New it isn't. But it is becoming an easy available and affordable technology. Quite a difference.
Particular
a.k.a. CNNY, disassembler
Cal,
I gave it to you to test, because I know you would be the first to spot any flaws. You know how to work it, with actual film.
wafflecakee
Well-known
I need a 40mm summicron-c hood printed. Something that screws in to the 5.5. That'd be awesome.
Dan Daniel
Well-known
Do the printers people here are using at home have the resolution to do filter threads? What I have seen from non-industrial printers (e.g. less than $10,000) barely has the resolution to do a simple curve, much less fine threading.
wafflecakee
Well-known
I have no idea, but for those who have one I'm willing to pay!
fonzy
Newbie
Hey dude, Adrien here. I have a 3d printer at work, and I'm always up for an interesting project. Give me a shout and we can figure something out.
B-9
Devin Bro
I love this, Enough said.
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
Christian,
Right now I'm feeling confident using a standard film advance, but the real testing would be the added stress of using a 3-D printed "Rose" with a TA Rapidwinder where shooting is performed in three round bursts and for fast shooting.
BTW could you clone a TA Rapidgrip? I would like to have a similar structural integrity of an aluminum version. I would use a lighter cloned Rapidgrip on my M-bodies when I don't use TA Rapidwinders, but when using Rapidwinders I like the added weight for balance, handling and stability. Three TA Rapidgrips add up to be a lot of weight when I catty three Leicas
Cal
Particular
a.k.a. CNNY, disassembler
Cal, I don't think the rapidwinder actually puts more stress on the rose, because it mostly rides along. I think most stress happens while loading film. A plastic grip would be lighter, but not as strong. A grip in sintered stainless steel would be strong, heavy and expensive, and pretty cool. You should try it 'naked' some time, that is how I like it.
zuiko85
Veteran
Do you think it would be possible to print rear lens caps for Olympus Pen F lenses?
Particular
a.k.a. CNNY, disassembler
That is the kind of thing that can be done pretty easily with current technology.
Calzone
Gear Whore #1
Christian,
I see your logic, but with a TA Rapidwinder advancing the film is more aggressive and faster. I'm just saying that the use of a Rapidwinder is higher stress.
I ended up buying this compact brown retro leather Leica bag with a Leitz Red Dot logo. This bag made me downsize the size of each one of my rigs. I'll see if I like a naked camera. Know that I'm a man of extremes where I will likely like either the bare minimium or the over the top maximium.
Right now I'm still hanging onto the oversized grips which really are not needed. It does seem that a Rapidgrip goes with using a TA Rapidwinder for stability, comfort and ergonomics.
Cal