4 or 4K

[reagan]

That's a "parts is parts" camera because if it was a true 1957 there would be a frame around the big viewfinder window. The shutter speed numbers may be engraved but the stuff on the top housing is all painted.

Can't say I've seen a front logo of that style before... anybody else? And agreed, a lack of engraving on the top front doesn't seem to match the age. Who knows? Some guy may have taken the best of a couple of cameras and made a great shooter.... but, I think I'd be just curious enough to stay away from it.

 

[captainslack]

Can't say I've seen a front logo of that style before... anybody else? And agreed, a lack of engraving on the top front doesn't seem to match the age. Who knows? Some guy may have taken the best of a couple of cameras and made a great shooter.... but, I think I'd be just curious enough to stay away from it.

It's not really worth what alex is asking for it, anyhow. The orange one I posted earlier may be ugly, but it's a lot more affordable.

Still, it's a nice looking cam.

 

[zhang]

As far as I know, the 4K has printed shutter speed numbers on the shutter speed selector dial which tend to rub off with age. The 4 has engraved numbers. I think there was also a model of the 4 where the 'zorki' name was printed instead of engraved. If I had a choice I would go for the zorki with the engraved name and shutter speed 🙂

There are some rare early Zorki 4Ks with engraved numbers on the speed dial. I am lucky enough to have found 3 of these. 🙂 And this DIY one even has strap lugs! So I don't have to choose between a 4 and a 4k.

 

[kiev4a]

My 1956 Zorki 4 (engraved & lugs) is very smooth winding and rewinding. It sold me on the idea that the older ones are are maybe a little better built. All functions seem to work easily and accurately. I picked it up from "ostrovsky105" in the Bay for 30 bones with matching '56 J8. The high production numbers for Z4s & 4Ks make it easy to be picky until you find a good one.

I'd also have to agree, though I haven't owned one [yet], the Mir's trustworthy rep make them quite attractive as well. Despite the low production numbers, they still seem to be frequently available and I'm sure one in good shape can be found with a little patience and persistence.

I had a mint 1956 Z4 and in a fit of stupidy ytraded it to another local FSU camera buff. He has since lost interest but I can't get him to let go of the camera :bang:

Z4s were produced with several name style on the front--for internal and export, plus some apparently because they wanted a different look. The two Zorki models where you run into the most parts swapping are the Zorki 1 and the Zorki 4. It gets more confusing with the Zorki 1 because you'll find cameras that also include FED 1 parts -- "Zorfedsteins."

 

[reagan]

Z4s were produced with several name style on the front--for internal and export, plus some apparently because they wanted a different look.

Hey kiev4a, I've read the same thing but never run across any info as to which styles were export and which were homeboys. Any ideas? Do you think a particular lettering style could give a hint of a camera that was ... possibly... built with tighter tolerances/better quality?

On Z1s, I recently purchased [and am waiting patiently for like a good commrade] a Zorki 1 (Zorki~Zorki) that is engraved but also has the painted rim around the lensmount. Not sure what that's about, maybe some mix-match parts, but thought it rather attractive anyway and will have to get it in my sweaty little hands to get a closer look. 😎

 

[Shadesofgrey]

Thanks for the info guys, appreciate it. The guy in camera shop (Glen) let me borrow both of them for a day (been going to the same shop for years) As you say, not much between then, though the 4 felt a little smoother and the 4K was a bit quicker and easier to use, though I guess I'd gey use to either in time. Bought the 4, not sure why, guess it just felt right. It came with a Jupiter 8, which I was told were/are, very good, you all agree? What's my choice as to a 35mm in Russian iron. Glen gave me a quick run down on things NOT to do with a Zorki but by the time I got home I couldn't remember half of them......help!


Take care

B.

 

[captainslack]

Here's the main one to remember:

DON'T SET THE SHUTTER SPEED WITHOUT COCKING THE SHUTTER FIRST!!!!! I bought my 4 from CBVLZ4 and had to send it to Oleg for repair two days later because I forgot to do this. Turned out there was sand in the damn thing, which I'm sure contributed to it's rather fast demise, but still...

 

[Shadesofgrey]

Here's the main one to remember:

DON'T SET THE SHUTTER SPEED WITHOUT COCKING THE SHUTTER FIRST!!!!! I bought my 4 from CBVLZ4 and had to send it to Oleg for repair two days later because I forgot to do this. Turned out there was sand in the damn thing, which I'm sure contributed to it's rather fast demise, but still...

Hi Slack; is that all I have to worry about, think Glen mentioned something about settings between low and high speed? Bit of a pig to load, still, so is a L***a until you get the hang of it. I saw my first Mir yesterday, nice! Cost more than the 4 though? Thought they were the same thing? New to Russian iron as no doubt you can tell. Any tips on what the lenses are like, I'm looking for a 35 or a 40W/A.

Take care.

B.

 

[captainslack]

There's a few more things to watch out for, but that's the main one with any FSU camera.

I can't comment too much on the slow speeds, as I only had my 4 for a couple of days before I broke it. Greyhoundman can give you the full scoop on that, I'm sure.

As for the lens, the viewfinder does not have parallax correction and is designed for a 50mm lens. If you want to use any other focal length, you'll need an external finder. The Soviets made an all-in-one finder, called the turrent finder, that has parallax corrected framelines for 35-135mm lengths. It's a copy of the same one that Zeiss made for the Contax. I've never used one, myself. Some people love them and some say they're not all their cracked up to be. They are, IMHO, big and bulky looking. Personally, I'd check out the Cosina-Voightlander one's at CameraQuest.

The Mir is the same as the Zorki 4/4K, but without the slow speeds. They're more expensive because they're rarer.

 

[kiev4a]

Hi Slack; is that all I have to worry about, think Glen mentioned something about settings between low and high speed? Bit of a pig to load, still, so is a L***a until you get the hang of it. I saw my first Mir yesterday, nice! Cost more than the 4 though? Thought they were the same thing? New to Russian iron as no doubt you can tell. Any tips on what the lenses are like, I'm looking for a 35 or a 40W/A.

Take care.

B.

The Mir is a Zorki 4 without the slow shutter speeds and the 1/1000 speed unmarked. There were built for three years as a less expensive version for consumption the the SU. Actually the Mir tens to be more reliable that the Z4 and everything is engraved, plus it has strap lugs (a lot of the late Z4s didn't). They fetch higher prices because there are less of them and it is more difficult to find one in nice condition.

 

[reagan]

Hey Shades! I'm pretty new to the FSU stuff myself, but we're in a great place to find out about it. You asked:

Any tips on what the lenses are like, I'm looking for a 35 or a 40W/A.

The Jupiter 12 is a 35mm and IMO a dandy lens for the $$. There are quite a few available in white or black trappings. (see my previous photo)

There's also the less abundant/more $$ Orion~15, f6, 28mm. I have one on the way, so I've no experience with the Orion yet, but they seem to be well liked also, though they are frequently offered at rediculous prices (again, IMO.)

I use my J12 w/o the appropriate 35mm VF and haven't been disappointed with the results... I just center the Zorki's 50mm VF on the subject and imagine "a little wider." But, as captainslack suggests, I will probably hunt down some useable attached VF for the Orion. (I don't have enough imagination to think "a little wider-wider." 😕 )

 

[varjag]

I like the look of Zorki 4 much more then of the 4K, but the lack of wind lever slows you down a little and can cause you to loose the decisive moment ; )

It may sound odd, but IMHO a lever wind (or motor wind) won't help you with decisive moment. Anticipation is a key part to capture it, and rapid wind doesn't add much here. Having said that, I'd still appreciate if my Kiev-4A had a Kiev-5 style lever wind 🙂

As of Zorki-4 vs. 4K, I think a 4K with strap lugs and engraved numbers would be ideal. It should be possible to replace the bottom casting and dials of 4K with those of an early 4, thus giving you an ultimate Zorki for a still small price.

 

[brians]

It may sound odd, but IMHO a lever wind (or motor wind) won't help you with decisive moment. Anticipation is a key part to capture it, and rapid wind doesn't add much here. Having said that, I'd still appreciate if my Kiev-4A had a Kiev-5 style lever wind 🙂

As of Zorki-4 vs. 4K, I think a 4K with strap lugs and engraved numbers would be ideal. It should be possible to replace the bottom casting and dials of 4K with those of an early 4, thus giving you an ultimate Zorki for a still small price.

It's always nice to have the shutter cocked for the next shot, but I agree, anticipation is very important. I really liked the prospect of strap lugs + a lever wind, so I got a Zorki 6, but I think I a 4K would have been suitable.

My Zorki 4 came in terrible condition (whereas the auctioneer said it was in VERY GOOD condition, hah!) and this being my first FSU RF, I think I nearly got blisters from trying to advance the film (bloody tight film advance winder....) But I sent mine off to Mr. Oleg Khalyavin, so I'm hoping he's taking real good care of my Z4.

The only thing I dislike about the Zorki 4K is the text painted on the front. It looks a bit ugly for my tastes, although the camera itself is a beaut. Only if it had vulcanite and strap lugs....

Oh yeah, I've got a question. Would there be any way to install your own straplugs? Or is there a possibility that this might damage your camera or cause horrible lightleaks, etc.?

 

[varjag]

It's always nice to have the shutter cocked for the next shot, but I agree, anticipation is very important. I really liked the prospect of strap lugs + a lever wind, so I got a Zorki 6, but I think I a 4K would have been suitable.

True, the 6 looks really hip, although they're far harder to find than a 4 or 4k (at least here).

Would there be any way to install your own straplugs? Or is there a possibility that this might damage your camera or cause horrible lightleaks, etc.?

I guess any competent machinist won't have much problems doing that. Maybe you'd need to patch the lug mounts from inside the camera, but that shouldn't be hard.

 

[reagan]

Oh yeah, I've got a question. Would there be any way to install your own straplugs? Or is there a possibility that this might damage your camera or cause horrible lightleaks, etc.?

I'm speaking from a total lack of experience in this area, but Rick Oleson's site has some really good drawings/instructions about getting the cover off, should you decide to take on that project. Doesn't look that difficult to remove and re-install/replace. Look at the bottom of this page.

Rick also seems to quite easily accessable via email if you have any questions or need any coaching.

 

[brians]

I'm speaking from a total lack of experience in this area, but Rick Oleson's site has some really good drawings/instructions about getting the cover off, should you decide to take on that project. Doesn't look that difficult to remove and re-install/replace. Look at the bottom of this page.

Rick also seems to quite easily accessable via email if you have any questions or need any coaching.

Excellent! Thanks a lot!

 

[kiev4a]

I'm speaking from a total lack of experience in this area, but Rick Oleson's site has some really good drawings/instructions about getting the cover off, should you decide to take on that project. Doesn't look that difficult to remove and re-install/replace. Look at the bottom of this page.

Rick also seems to quite easily accessable via email if you have any questions or need any coaching.

I've installed strap lugs off a junked Zorki 5 on a Zorki 1. Used something called "cold weld" (don't remember the exact name)--an epoxy, to do it. I thing that area of the body is actually stronger. You have to make sure the posts on the lugs don't protrude into the body cavity.

 

[Shadesofgrey]

When changing speeds, you can not turn the knob between 1 sec. and 1/30 sec.
If you want to go from 1/30 to 1 sec. or even 1/125. You have to turn the knob CCW to get there. Otherwise you will damage the speed selector pin.

Thanks Slack/greyhoundman, saved me a bad day with new toy 😕 Think I'll stick with the J8 for now, bought the 4 mainly for trolling around London without too much (noticable) gear. Going to put a roll of (Jessops Pan 400SX) through it later. Wonder who make that film, Agfa? Hey Kiev-4a some web site; mind if I print it out (just for me, can stand reading from a screen) understand if you say no. Thanks guys for the info and freindship.

take care.

B.

 

[Shadesofgrey]

When changing speeds, you can not turn the knob between 1 sec. and 1/30 sec.
If you want to go from 1/30 to 1 sec. or even 1/125. You have to turn the knob CCW to get there. Otherwise you will damage the speed selector pin.

Thanks Slack/greyhoundman, saved me a bad day with new toy 😕 Think I'll stick with the J8 for now, bought the 4 mainly for trolling around London without too much (noticable) gear. Going to put a roll of (Jessops Pan 400SX) through it later. Wonder who make that film, Agfa? Hey Kiev-4a some web site; mind if I print it out (just for me, can stand reading from a screen) understand if you say no. Thanks guys for the info and friendship.

take care.

B.
PS. Kiev-4a; did you see the m on ebay? really nice looking.

 

[yankeedoll]

I recently saw the results of a Zorki 4K & the pictures looked as good as any I've seen from a GSN. I still have to break in my Zorki 4 & I sure hope the results will be as good!