Disaster_Area
Gadget Monger
For those cases, a digital camera makes a lot more sense,
Couldn't disagree more... maybe if you had the new Nikon D3s... but I've yet to see a DSLR at 12500 that has nicer looking noise than any film I've pushed that high. Film grain will always look like film grain, but digital noise just looks awful at that sensitivity.
Plus... it's fun to push your developing skills to the limit
Juan Valdenebro
Truth is beauty
Just wondering... Pushing developing skills, or pulling film tonality?
Maybe using faster films and primes, or a tripod...
All those laws were not invented by this forum member, I just accept them.
Cheers,
Juan
Maybe using faster films and primes, or a tripod...
All those laws were not invented by this forum member, I just accept them.
Cheers,
Juan
Rogrund
Antti Sivén
Great is motherhood!
It probably is. I only know about fatherhood and grandfatherhood!
smartpoe
Newbie
Could you please give me an advise about matching film and developer when push film iso400 up to 1600?
I try to do with Tri-X400 and HC-110 but it seems not a good matching!
Regards,
Poe
I try to do with Tri-X400 and HC-110 but it seems not a good matching!
Regards,
Poe
alexz
Well-known
Could you please give me an advise about matching film and developer when push film iso400 up to 1600?
I try to do with Tri-X400 and HC-110 but it seems not a good matching!
Regards,
Poe
I'm in no way guru in film processing, but from my limited experience, HC-110 probably is not the best choice for strong push...
I used one with Tri-X at box speed - quite liked the results, but for pushing I figured it is quite harsh. I'm now trying XTOL for all my B&W, found it to be a bit softer in contrast on normally exposed Tri-X, but hope it will also produce a bit softer contrast on strong push of Tri-X (I often do to 1600).
smartpoe
Newbie
I'm in no way guru in film processing, but from my limited experience, HC-110 probably is not the best choice for strong push...
I used one with Tri-X at box speed - quite liked the results, but for pushing I figured it is quite harsh. I'm now trying XTOL for all my B&W, found it to be a bit softer in contrast on normally exposed Tri-X, but hope it will also produce a bit softer contrast on strong push of Tri-X (I often do to 1600).
Many thanks for your advise, I'll try XTOL as you mentioned with my next roll.
Trius
Waiting on Maitani
Anyone want another "true film speed" debate? 
Juan Valdenebro
Truth is beauty
Films have no true speed.
They do have best possible developing times after certain exposure, and well, this generates constructive debates...
Scanners and digital printing are another field. Both fields should be considered separately... Both can be well used...
Cheers,
Juan
They do have best possible developing times after certain exposure, and well, this generates constructive debates...
Scanners and digital printing are another field. Both fields should be considered separately... Both can be well used...
Cheers,
Juan
piazza63
Established
I love to look of 400 speed film at 1600 and 3200 I used to use tri-x and diafine but have switched to neopan and xtol and will probably never look back.



Juan Valdenebro
Truth is beauty
Great shots man! Great exposition and development too!
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