40mm and 35mm framelines

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mooge

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hei,

does anyone here have a comparison between the 35mm framelines for a Leica M2 and the negative produced with a 40mm lens (like the Nokton?)?

Roland?



I'm kind of curious.

thanks.
 
I am interested also.

Practical experience, 40mm fits well to a old-style 50mm frame-line and to a new style 35mm frame line. Since I have both type of cameras (M7 - new - and M4-P - old -) I leave the lens mount alone and guesstimate. 🙂
 
I shoot a Nokton 40 mm on a M2. It brings up the 50mm frameline and I add 3 width of the line to the outside and it gets darn close. Since I end up cropping most of my pictures it's no big deal.
 
So sorry to the owner topic. Could you pls allow me to post asking here?

Currently I use M3, and now I want to combine M3 with lense CV 35 1.4. Anyone using like this? Pls help to advise me about?
- Any problem will effect to M3 body?
- Does it still accurate focus at f1.4?
- How to estimate a picture what we can get after? It will be whole viewfinder or larger?

Many thanks.
 
I don't Mooge, but if you let me know what you want (which focus distance), I can do some shots the next time I'll use my M2 (next week at a wedding). My only 40 is the Nokton. Maybe somebody else posts until then ....

Roland.
 
well, infinity and 0,7m if you can... but I'm more interested in infinity.
thanks, Roland.

K-vang-
the 35 1.4 will work on an M3 and focus correctly, but I think the field of view is a little larger than the entire viewfinder. I'm not sure; I don't have an M3. or a 35.
you could get an auxiliary viewfinder though.
 
Hi,

Cut a hole in a piece of card. Make it 24mm by 36mm or use a slide cover.

Hold 40mm from your eye and then 35mm and that will show you both fields of view.

Regards, David
 
Will do, Mooge. Until then, here is the theory:

frms-L.jpg
 
I use the 35/40 on my M2's. With the 40's I have filed down the 'claw" to give me 35 frames and then use the inside of the 35 frame as a guide. Seems to work fine - occasionally you loose something - but this is after all a rangefinder and "exact" framing is not its forte. For that I use old Nikon F's! Just add a bit to the image in the finder and if needed crop later.
 
I NEVER worry about Framelines ...
be it w/ a 40 or a 21
whatever is my main subject, I shoot dead center or slightly at a tilt


😀...Cheers- H
 
I have found that 40mm corners, when printed "full frame," fall exactly between the ends of the four lines of a 35mm frame, on my m4. I tested it with a tripod and a ground glass at 3m or so.
 
mooge said:
K-vang-
the 35 1.4 will work on an M3 and focus correctly, but I think the field of view is a little larger than the entire viewfinder. I'm not sure; I don't have an M3. or a 35.
you could get an auxiliary viewfinder though.
Click to expand...

Thanks a lot, Mooge !
 
Here's a shot with a Nokton 35/1.4 and a Rokkor 40/2. I was making a bunch of shots with different 35mm/40mm lenses.
Both were shot at F/2. Look at the details in the edges to get a sense of what gets cut off in a 40mm FOV vs a 35mm, I forgot to take a picture though the viewfinder to get a picture of the framelines.



Close up

Nokton 35/1.4
5721699830_093d51c883_z_d.jpg


Rokkor 40/2
5721141577_0056c6460f_z_d.jpg


Slightly distant

Nokton 35/1.4
5721699894_46bf829b33_z_d.jpg


Rokkor 40/2
5721700016_3655b91b6c_z_d.jpg
 
On my M2, i've always just imagining that the 40mm frame line was in directly in between the 35mm and 50mm lines. The frames lines aren't super accurate to begin with, so it's alway worked well for me, and i've never lost anything on the edge of one of my compositions. I usually stray on the side of being too wide, than too narrow.
 
Hi, does anyone have the results of the test? Link appears to be dead. Thanks
 
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