anglophone1
Well-known
I learned one one of these in college 40 years ago! But then I'm the same age as Roger...................UK copy of Technika [I think? RH will know] Many built to government spec and often come with 150 and 90 lens set [Wray GB] and therefore indestructible.
I was looking for one of these or a Razzle [not bothered about movement as shooting hand held portraits on the last case of Pola 55 in the world............] at an affordable price, Razzle came up first [here on RFF]
At current USD-GBP rates an MPP will be a real bargain.........go for it!
Clive
FrankS
Registered User
For your needs, it's easy to get by on the (relatively) limited movements of a Speed or Crown Graphic.
Keith
The best camera is one that still works!
My Crown Graphic fills most of my 4x5 needs so far. I think I paid about $300.00 and it it came with a heap of film holders and is in very nice condition. Whn folded up it's very robust and could probably take a fair bit of knocking around ... I like tha fact that it has a rangefinder also ... it gives you the option to use it hand held if you're game! 
Roger Hicks
Veteran
Dear Clive,
With improvements! Best of Technika + Graphic. And good movements -- at least the equal of a Technika, and far better than a Graphic.
Though I'd go for a Scheider lens-set rather than Wray (much more contrast).
Cheers,
R.
larmarv916
Well-known
Also look a "Horseman" they made a great field camera and it came with rangefinder focus like the Linhof's. also Horseman made its' own roll film backs.
Not a cheap as Speed or Crown Graphic but in the long run stronger and still you can get items for it from around the world. But in the end it will be the cost of the glass that will be your real issue. I myself have a 5x7 Cambo, it is a million years old but the glass is Nikkor 360 and 120 SW.
Good Luck....Laurance
Good Luck...Laurance
Not a cheap as Speed or Crown Graphic but in the long run stronger and still you can get items for it from around the world. But in the end it will be the cost of the glass that will be your real issue. I myself have a 5x7 Cambo, it is a million years old but the glass is Nikkor 360 and 120 SW.
Good Luck....Laurance
Good Luck...Laurance
sooner
Well-known
I considered a Razzle, but he is not accepting orders right now, and besides to me one of the big advantages of 4x5 is the tilt/shift. Otherwise, I'm right back pointing the camera up at buildings or whatever and getting diverging lines, or worse not getting optimal depth of field in less than perfect light. Seems too much to give up for ultra portability, especially given the comments here about hand-holding the Graphics.
noah b
Established
Older calumet monorails are exceptional for the movements, but the camera itself weighs around 9 pounds. I bought one a couple weeks ago and it works well for me. Thinking about investing in a 135 lens, nikon or calumet.
Al Kaplan
Veteran
Frank, thanks for agreeing with me about those old Ektars being great glass. Single coating isn't any major problem with the simple designs and few air to glass surfaces on those lenses.
Many of the common view camera lenses are symetrical designs, what the Germans used to call a Doppel Anastigmat. There's usually a triplet behind the shutter and another in front. If you unscrew the front lens cell you can use the rear one by itself, about double the focal length of the complete lens. Where the front and rear cells aren't the same focal length you can also use just the front cell, but supposedly it's best to put it in the rear with the bare shutter blades/diaphragm in front. Some shutters were marked with two or three aperture scales, for the complete lens and the cells alone.
The lack of "filter threads" was of no concern in an era when most photographers used push-on "series" adapters with glass series filters, which might range from tiny series IV to huge series IX.
A lot of the shutters (mostly American) from that era had what we would consider "non standard" synch contacts, probably to avoid patent infringement problems with Prontor Compur (inventor of the common PC synch contact). The most common was the bi-post, consisting of two rounded tip pins coming out of the shutter that fit in two holes in the end of the cord. A lot of these shutters have been crudely "converted" to PC by soldering the wires from a short piece of synch cord with a male PC terminal on it to the two posts on the shutter. There were another couple of types but you aren't likely to run into any.
Schneider Symmars are symetrical lenses, as is that fabled 203mm f/7.7 Ektar. The other Ektar lenses are mostly all four element Tessar designs like the Schneider Xenars and Wollensak Raptars. Just think how dark your ground glass will be with that Kodak Ektar using only the aproximately 406mm focal length f/15.4 rear lens cell...and NO autofocus!
Many of the common view camera lenses are symetrical designs, what the Germans used to call a Doppel Anastigmat. There's usually a triplet behind the shutter and another in front. If you unscrew the front lens cell you can use the rear one by itself, about double the focal length of the complete lens. Where the front and rear cells aren't the same focal length you can also use just the front cell, but supposedly it's best to put it in the rear with the bare shutter blades/diaphragm in front. Some shutters were marked with two or three aperture scales, for the complete lens and the cells alone.
The lack of "filter threads" was of no concern in an era when most photographers used push-on "series" adapters with glass series filters, which might range from tiny series IV to huge series IX.
A lot of the shutters (mostly American) from that era had what we would consider "non standard" synch contacts, probably to avoid patent infringement problems with Prontor Compur (inventor of the common PC synch contact). The most common was the bi-post, consisting of two rounded tip pins coming out of the shutter that fit in two holes in the end of the cord. A lot of these shutters have been crudely "converted" to PC by soldering the wires from a short piece of synch cord with a male PC terminal on it to the two posts on the shutter. There were another couple of types but you aren't likely to run into any.
Schneider Symmars are symetrical lenses, as is that fabled 203mm f/7.7 Ektar. The other Ektar lenses are mostly all four element Tessar designs like the Schneider Xenars and Wollensak Raptars. Just think how dark your ground glass will be with that Kodak Ektar using only the aproximately 406mm focal length f/15.4 rear lens cell...and NO autofocus!
Trius
Waiting on Maitani
Toyo field.
Nokton48
Veteran
Consider the Sinar Norma. Finest in the world.
35mmdelux
Veni, vidi, vici
Get an RZ for close to that amount. The 4x5 will require film holders, forget it.
ItsReallyDarren
That's really me
I'm interested in getting into shooting 4x5 too. The biggest issue for me was developing the film, which basically kept GAS at a safe and manageable distance...
That is, until I stumbled across this the other day researching Paterson tanks.
http://photo.net/large-format-photography-forum/00RMar
It seems you can use the holder to develop a few sheets of 4x5 in a plastic tank. Guess I better start looking for a 4x5 camera now.
That is, until I stumbled across this the other day researching Paterson tanks.
http://photo.net/large-format-photography-forum/00RMar
It seems you can use the holder to develop a few sheets of 4x5 in a plastic tank. Guess I better start looking for a 4x5 camera now.
venchka
Veteran
Another way...
Another way...
I guess I was lucky. Or you could watch ebay. For a lot less than the gizmo you linked to I put together a Jobo 2553 (2551 is the same tank) and reels for 35mm, 120/220 and 4x5 film. I use a Uniroller motor base. Total for the whole kit was under $50. I used the Jobo tank and 1 reel to develop a roll of 35mm Ilford Delta 100 last night. Xtol 1:3 for 10 minutes. Works like a charm.
Another way...
I guess I was lucky. Or you could watch ebay. For a lot less than the gizmo you linked to I put together a Jobo 2553 (2551 is the same tank) and reels for 35mm, 120/220 and 4x5 film. I use a Uniroller motor base. Total for the whole kit was under $50. I used the Jobo tank and 1 reel to develop a roll of 35mm Ilford Delta 100 last night. Xtol 1:3 for 10 minutes. Works like a charm.
FrankS
Registered User
Processing sheet film in a tray in a totally dark room is good for the soul.
Frank Petronio
Well-known
I've had a couple of Dean's Razzles and they are great. But a Crown Graphic will do the same thing for less money and not much more bulk, if any, it is just shaped differently.
For the money, a $300 Sinar F is pretty sweet, they were aspirational cameras for most people in the 70s and 80s, now they are very inexpensive. You can also expand the system, the F folds up fairly small, and you can resell it for what you paid for it.
For the money, a $300 Sinar F is pretty sweet, they were aspirational cameras for most people in the 70s and 80s, now they are very inexpensive. You can also expand the system, the F folds up fairly small, and you can resell it for what you paid for it.
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aizan
Veteran
toyo 810g or cambo legend 8x10.
second recommendation would be an mpp, like roger said.
second recommendation would be an mpp, like roger said.
sooner
Well-known
Does anyone have experience with the Toyo 45 rail system? It seems there are a few on the Bay right now, and they seem only slightly more expensive than the Crown Graphic. I realize you sacrifice mobility, though some here disagree it's really all that hard to travel with a small rail camera.
venchka
Veteran
Buy on ebay if you dare or you must. I find that I get great stuff at great prices from individuals on forums like this one. I have seen some really nice large format gear for sale here. The other forum where I have had good luck is the Large Format Photography Forum. One caution: You must be a member for 30 days before using the Buy & Sell area. Join now. 30 days will go by quickly.
Al Kaplan
Veteran
Toyo monorail cameras are very good.
Al Kaplan
Veteran
Some thoughts on recessed lensboards...
Some thoughts on recessed lensboards...
On most view cameras you really should use one with wide angle lenses. With a flat board the bellows might be too compressed to allow much in the way of movements. Paint the insides of the recess with flat black paint. You never know when some reflected light might hit your front element. Think of it as a secondary lens hood.
Be careful with lens hoods. With extreme camera movements they may vignette when you stop down to a small aperture.
When using longer than average lenses you might consider using a recessed lensboard reversed so as to give you another inch or two of effective bellows extension. Don't forget the flat black paint!
You can make good cheap lensboards for many view cameras from 1/8 inch wall panelling or Masonite. Cut one piece the size of the lensboard and a second the size of the inside recess of the camera, then glue them together and paint with flat black paint. If you choose real wood wall panelling try to pick a shade of brown that matches your Leica's Luigi case. Your wife will love you ;-)
Some thoughts on recessed lensboards...
On most view cameras you really should use one with wide angle lenses. With a flat board the bellows might be too compressed to allow much in the way of movements. Paint the insides of the recess with flat black paint. You never know when some reflected light might hit your front element. Think of it as a secondary lens hood.
Be careful with lens hoods. With extreme camera movements they may vignette when you stop down to a small aperture.
When using longer than average lenses you might consider using a recessed lensboard reversed so as to give you another inch or two of effective bellows extension. Don't forget the flat black paint!
You can make good cheap lensboards for many view cameras from 1/8 inch wall panelling or Masonite. Cut one piece the size of the lensboard and a second the size of the inside recess of the camera, then glue them together and paint with flat black paint. If you choose real wood wall panelling try to pick a shade of brown that matches your Leica's Luigi case. Your wife will love you ;-)